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I think that mhanson will be able to tell you. Let's hope he chimes in.

[ This message was edited by: SlowPocono on 2006-12-16 16:17 ]
 

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Think the frame would drag first, maybe if your legs are long enough. Buddy from work dragged his arm, leg, shoulder, and face with the help of a little gravel riding a Duc Sport bike. He wasn't going fast. 4 broken ribs, broken arm, leg, shoulder (2x), and collar. Now he is crippled with one shoulder 2 or 3 inches lower and shorter, limps, and just start back one day a week doing light duty. I think I will leave the dragging to racers and young bucks.
 

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On 2006-12-16 14:51, Max_NYC wrote:
Can you drag your knees with your Bonnie? If yes what's your setup?
Max
A thruxton cup racer. This is Ted Cobb on his Thruxton Cup Racer, he won the first series. Bike sports Honda F3 forks with Triumph lowers, Ohlins rear shocks, and the Avon Race Tires.

 

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If a rider is using public roads to gratify his/her ego by trying to "drag a knee",
they're riding too fast for the conditions (not controlled).
In addition, "Pivot Steering" when correctly used,
radically reduces the lean angle of the bike.....
providing more control via a fatter footprint both front & rear.
Talk of "chicken strips", ground down feelers on the foot pegs,
and "dragging a knee" is best left to the squids who
live for bragging of superfluous exploits.

*Single rate racing springs for my 210 pounds up front,
in Thruxton tubes w/adjustable preload.
*Hagon Nitros shocks in the back with after-market
springs appropriate for my (heavy) weight.
*Norman Hyde fork brace
*Alloy Excel wheels w/Buchanan stainless steel spokes
*Raask rear-sets
*HD "Drag bars" w/risers
*GT501's to be replaced by Avon Azaro's
*NH bellmouth
*K&N air filter (with restrictor plate in)
*Procom igniter
*D&D cans w/Big City Thunder baffles

Hell, I don't need my Bonnie to drag MY knees!
They're already so close to the ground at my 5' 2",
all I gotta do is turn a tight one from the dining
room to the kitchen.
:razz:

[ This message was edited by: FattRat on 2006-12-17 08:40 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On 2006-12-17 07:12, kdrake wrote:
Think the frame would drag first, maybe if your legs are long enough. Buddy from work dragged his arm, leg, shoulder, and face with the help of a little gravel riding a Duc Sport bike. He wasn't going fast. 4 broken ribs, broken arm, leg, shoulder (2x), and collar. Now he is crippled with one shoulder 2 or 3 inches lower and shorter, limps, and just start back one day a week doing light duty. I think I will leave the dragging to racers and young bucks.
The pegs drag first, actually...
As for the rest... Yes, I know, I should get a track bike and, well, go to a track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
[/quote]

A thruxton cup racer. This is Ted Cobb on his Thruxton Cup Racer, he won the first series. Bike sports Honda F3 forks with Triumph lowers, Ohlins rear shocks, and the Avon Race Tires.


[/quote]


Very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On 2006-12-17 08:36, FattRat wrote:
If a rider is using public roads to gratify his/her ego by trying to "drag a knee",
they're riding too fast for the conditions (not controlled).
In addition, "Pivot Steering" when correctly used,
radically reduces the lean angle of the bike.....
providing more control via a fatter footprint both front & rear.
Talk of "chicken strips", ground down feelers on the foot pegs,
and "dragging a knee" is best left to the squids who
live for bragging of superfluous exploits.

I have nothing about superfluous exploits, personally.
But I will drag my knees on a track.
 

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On 2006-12-17 10:45, Max_NYC wrote:

The pegs drag first, actually...
As for the rest... Yes, I know, I should get a track bike and, well, go to a track.
That they do. I took the Advanced Cornering class at Mid-Ohio Race Track last summer and was dragging the LSL rear-sets on my T100 (the only time before or since that I have done that). My knee was still a long way from the ground.
 

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Just before the knee drag came the dreaded "foot peg pivot" which bounced the bike up at mid-corner going 45 mph. Kept baby upright and was quite proud of the scuff, but vowed not to do it again (until I remove center stand, side stand and install rear sets.)
 

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This is the order of contact on a Thruxton from a summer of experience on the track. Each step led to the next contact and resolution. 1.stock footpeg feelers.2.stock footpegs. 3.racing footpegs and sidestand. 4. shifter arm and brake pedal. 5.header pipe and front of D and D's. I resolved these problems by making my own rearsets higher and rearward positioned, replacing the shifter arm and pedal with a rearward facing shifter arm fabricated from a welded up concoction from the old parts, shark high pipes, and raising the brake pedal as high as it would go, and eliminating the sidestand. So, if you want to drag your knee on these bikes safely, plan on a lot of modification; otherwise buy a sportbike! :wink:
 

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On 2006-12-18 19:30, tcb wrote:
And now:
Very nice, being an "ex" racer I love the fact you are running the Thruxton. Even in my old age, I am thinking of getting back into it (using current bike) once I get another bike. Our "local" track (Willow Springs) has many club races that I can get the bike into, so there is no excuse, especially after the past couple of track days...

What tires are you running, more info on shocks as well please (threadjack!)

PS - you can post more than one pic in a post, just repeat the process via the "image" button (black ones) same as the first time.
 
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