So if we have the older version, can we upgrade? Is it worth doing so? Not complaining as mine works great but occasionally, it get's into a state where it won't shut off the circuit (red light is still on), but I think that has something to do with the relays and going in and out of range with the key fob while standing around the bike. Maybe I somehow confuse it?
This is Bill, right?
Generally it is not really practical to 'upgrade' (in terms of re-manufacturing the original system) the older system to the solid-state - but there is no functional difference anyway, the change is all on the 'power' side, not the 'control' side.
You've had yours for about 2-1/2 yrs now - have you replaced the battery in the remote?
The clutch switch on the hydraulic clutch T'Bird is different, but I have seen some issues with the other Triumph models with the OEM clutch switch, where water gets into the OEM switch and effectively shorts it - if the headlight does not turn off when you close the Kill Switch, then the problem is almost certainly the clutch switch.
(washing in that area a definite no-no)
If the power circuits DO go off, but system will not re-arm,(red light go off when you go out of range) then it is an RFID communication issue; start by resetting it, by just unplugging the module (or simply disconnect & reconnect the bike battery & use the manual button initially to arm.disarm it one single time)
Let's discuss off-line so I have better understanding of what is going on with yours.
Send me pm with your phone number and good day/time to call & we can review what is going on.
Hey DEcorrse I am very interested just need to get my engine performance parts from USA shipped to me and the engine rework completed to see how my wallet is looking ha ha.
Is there still no work around for the Triumphs with the immobilizer? (ie. Street Triple R 2014)
:wave been dying to buy one of these setups for a while
No, sorry, it's just not possible
The only option would be to remove the detector from the key-switch barrel, and tape the key-chip to it (secure it inside the headlight or something)
The key does not have to be in the lock, just next to the detector - don't even need the whole key, just the chip from the top part)
So you would no longer have the OEM ECM immobilization feature - essentially it would be permanently bypassed and operate just like any of the non-immobilizer bikes.
The detector is that shroud around the switch barrel, with the small harness
(you could still leave the rest of the switch attached to the top triple if you wanted to use the steering lock, but the switch itself would actually be electrically disconnected other than the detector)
Never seen this thread before but I'm interested if you're still supplying these units. 2007 ST1050. I'm forever dropping keys while trying to fish them out of my pockets because I've forgotten and put my gloves on first.
A) Are you still supplying and B) the crass question but how much?
Hi everyone,
Don't really want to start of by asking "stupid" questions, but I had limited help on other sites.
Long story short: bought a bike and after only ~30km the clutch disappeared. Actually it felt like the cable has broken (which wasn't). After disassembling the whole clutch, found...
Hello all
A few months back I did the reg rec mod where it's wired straight to the battery. I thought that as it was getting dark earlier and I had also put a couple of led headlights on now, that I could use all the juice I could get.
It was a revelation, 13.2v with all the lights on and no...
I've been riding for almost 15 years a I finally went down. The bike held up very well considering that I was doing around 65 mph. It didn't impact anything and slide off the road into the grass and came to a stop. The frame sliders really did their job. I am very impressed by them. I broke my...
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