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Discussion Starter #41
So this is probably 'part quatre' :D

I now have integrated PDM60 solid-state power distribution module as option in lieu of relays
The PDM60 is a really nice power module - I was so impressed with it I became a distributor! :D

The Key-less system uses 3 of the 6 available channels, still leaving 3 for accessory connections.

This is a RocketIII kit: it is essentially plug n play except for that single wire connection for Clutch Signal (via PosiTap)

 

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Hey just got mine working yesterday! Feels soooo cool just walking to the bike and seeing the indicators flash without doing squat! The wiring was a bit of a challenge as my harness seems to be a some type of a hybrid between the t595 and the 955i, some of the connections, wire colors and other stuff just didn`t match the 955 diagram but did exactly to the 595!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Hey - pleased to hear you got it installed and configured! I had been expecting some questions, good for you on completing yourself.
The generally available schematic in the Triumph manual does NOT match the config of the 02 MY - it took me a long time to discover that!
It's actually more of a hybrid of the 00-01 model plus the O2 sensor and of course has the stator & R/R vs the Alternator. But the Ignition Circuit is the same.
First, there is no tip-over sensor nor ignition relay on the 02; then the config of the Key-Switch to Kill Switch to Fuse panel is also different;
on the 03+ (what is in the manual) it goes Key-Switch to Fuse Panel to Kill Switch (and also at the last node to the tip-over switch and relay);
on the 02, it is the same as the 00-01 and goes from Key-Switch directly to the Kill Switch and then it goes to Fuse Panel.
 

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Well I think and hope I got it right, at least it is functioning as it should, except for one thing I'm not sure of: is the engine kill switch supposed to shut off ALL power or did I fudge something? It can be used like that just think I would prefer that the power would stay on until I leave the bike. No biggy just a head scratcher. Another thing is that the detection range of the fob is significantly shorter than I imagined, I have to be within three meters of the bike for it to sense me. But that is actually a good thing as I was worried if the receiver will see the fob to the garage from indoors (one wall away) but as soon as I put the fob behind the wall from the door opening the signal is lost so no worries there. And yea the wiring was doing it's best to drive me nuts! Luckily I took a peek to the older version and saw that the wires match that so I could look to that diagram on the parts that were confusing me. I'll tell you I was screaming to myself "what the * is this thing!" trying to find the ignition relay in vain until I looked at the older diagram. I basically ended up splicing off the original ignition lock connector and doing the connections there apart from the 12v hot brown which I will be using to power a lighter socket on the handlebars. Oh these transition year models are a hoot, been having the same kind og problems with a few cars as well.

Here's another kicker: I'm pretty sure my bike DOES have a tipover sensor, there is a black unmarked three wire relay sitting on top of the corner of the battery with matching wire colors to those of the sensor so I think it's not a blinker relay.

Think I better continue this on my build thread, been lazy with updating that and got a full page wortg of pics to post.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
.... I'm not sure of: is the engine kill switch supposed to shut off ALL power or did I fudge something?
That is correct - the Kill Switch, as well as fundamentally breaking the ignition circuit as per original function, now also interrupts the feedback to the KeyLess system which keeps everything latched on.
So turning off the Kill now mimics the OEM condition of turning off the Key.

It can be used like that just think I would prefer that the power would stay on until I leave the bike.
That would be analogous to OEM turning to Kill but leaving Key on - can't really see an application where that would be required.
If you want any circuits powered just with the remote in range, but ignition not active, use the 'ready' output to drive a relay to switch that circuit.

Another thing is that the detection range of the fob is significantly shorter than I imagined, I have to be within three meters of the bike for it to sense me. But that is actually a good thing
Yes, typically about 3-5m - but this is definitely more a plus than any kind of negative; shorter is better IMO. With the old V2, it had range of about 10-12m with std antenna and that was way too much.

I'll take the specific wiring questions back to your primary thread.
 

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2018 Kawasaki H2 SX SE, '73 Yamaha RD350, '74 Kawasaki H1E 500
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Then one day I decided my Sprint should be keyless....

I recently added one of DEcosse’s keyless kits to my Sprint ST. After using it for a few weeks I feel the same as others who’ve posted here; this is a great mod. How did I manage without it?

I take it for granted that with my last few cars I can jump in and start up without removing the keys from my pocket. The benefits on a bike are greater – what a pain to realize the keys are in my pocket after I already zipped up my jacket and put on my gloves. Now I can leave the remote and key (for the gas cap) in my pocket and I’ve already got used to just flicking the kill switch, pulling the clutch lever and hitting the starter button.

I was working on another project to replace the OEM fuseblock with a couple of those PDM60 solid-state power distribution modules that DEcosse described earlier – see post # 41. Looking at the wiring diagram I realized that it wouldn’t take much extra so it seemed almost foolish not to do keyless at the same time. The picture below shows what I added. The keyless control is mounted inside the nose fairing with an extender harness to the OEM alarm connector. No need for relays - that part of it was already taken care of with my PDM install so this really is an integrated solution - sort of version 4.x.

With this setup it’s possible to completely remove the key switch – “Ignition On” is provided through the keyless system. I decided to keep the key switch - it can still be used for parking lights & steering lock. In general use the ignition cannot be turned on with the key switch but, if there’s an issue with the remote, it can be configured to operate as a backup (with a key of course). Probably an unnecessary feature but it was easy enough to wire it that way.

I cannot say big enough thanks to DEcosse for his help. The keyless kit is almost plug-n-play so that part of it didn’t really need much follow-up. However, combining it with my other project required some extra thought and DEcosse was always quick to respond with an explanation, solution or suggestion. That’s priceless.

 
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as before the remote goes into 'sleep' mode once ignition turned on
How are you getting it to activate the 'sleep' mode? The manual says that the doors need to be closed & the brake pedal pressed.

There are '+' & '-' inputs for the doors, and a '+' for the brake.

I'm thinking the door '+' could just be set when the ignition comes on. And probably the brake '+' as well, though you could get fancy and actually tap the brake light on the bike for it as well.

But, how does the remote wake up? Just by opening the door sense circuit when you turn the kill switch off?

thx
--Dan
 

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what a pain to realize the keys are in my pocket after I already zipped up my jacket and put on my gloves. Now I can leave the remote and key (for the gas cap) in my pocket and I’ve already got used to just flicking the kill switch, pulling the clutch lever and hitting the starter button.
Still gets a smirk out of me almost every time
 

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2018 Kawasaki H2 SX SE, '73 Yamaha RD350, '74 Kawasaki H1E 500
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DEcosse Wizardry ;)
The real wizardry is how you managed to get that much clever stuff into that little box. Even after seeing the pictures in this thread I was still surprised how compact that controller is. Good job Merlin.


I recently added another 'feature' where the 'ready' (dis-armed) led on the instrument panel now also goes off when the ignition turns on, so is no longer illuminated/distraction while riding.
Don't ya just hate it when they do that? I think further development should stop immediately. I mean what's the point now I have my keyless system? It'll only make me jealous!
 

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This is really great, but am I correct in assuming this doesn't actually lock/unlock the bike? If so, what's to prevent someone from just rolling the bike into a truck and driving off somewhere to part it out?
 

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Sure, I get that there are other options to lock the bike, but it just seems like if I have to pull my keys out anyway to unlock something then it sort of defeats the purpose of having a keyless ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
...what's to prevent someone from just rolling the bike into a truck and driving off somewhere to part it out?
So same option thieves have available as for your key-locked bike, yes? :rolleyes:

Do you know how easy it is to break the OEM steering lock and bypass the ignition?
And even without breaking it, what difference do you think the steering lock makes to putting the bike in a truck or van?
Bottom line, if someone wants your bike bad enough it's gone regardless of what you do.

I use my Xena disc-lock (which also has motion-detector alarm siren) and also chain the rear wheel for overnight parking if I'm on road trip - same as I would if I was using the key switch steering lock.
Neither of those stops it going in a van either (although if I was the thief I wouldn't want to listen to that Xena wailing!)
They are at best 'deterrent' alarms to hopefully make the perps move on to an easier, less-hassle target.
Unless I'm going to be away from the bike for an extended period, I would not use those for normal daily operation.
 

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I know it's relatively easy to break the steering lock, but it's also far simpler to just roll away if you don't have to do that first! And from personal experience I would consider it much harder to roll a locked bike into a truck or van than one that wasn't locked simply because it doesn't want to roll in a straight line, which makes it especially difficult to push up a ramp.

But I get what you're saying - this isn't intended for when you're planning on leaving the bike anywhere long term. It seems to me like it would be nice if there was a way to incorporate a motion alarm into it which armed/disarmed with the proximity sensor.
 

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I know it's relatively easy to break the steering lock, but it's also far simpler to just roll away if you don't have to do that first!
It's not mandatory to remove the ignition lock if you feel it adds some extra protection. With my keyless install I still have the ignition lock in place. I could use it to lock the steering but if I locked the steering every time I got off my bike then that'd defeat the object of a keyless system.

In my opinion the steering lock only provides a small amount of protection against an opportunist, ride-away thief. The keyless system provides additional protection against that sort of scum in other ways; it's more difficult to hot-wire and jamming a screwdriver into the lock won't get the bike started.
 

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I'm tired of dealing with the corroded contacts in my '04 Thruxton's ignition switch. How do I go about getting a DEcosse wireless ignition switch and what is the cost of one?
 

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2018 Kawasaki H2 SX SE, '73 Yamaha RD350, '74 Kawasaki H1E 500
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I'm tired of dealing with the corroded contacts in my '04 Thruxton's ignition switch. How do I go about getting a DEcosse wireless ignition switch and what is the cost of one?
Send a PM to DEcosse. He'll figure out what you need for your Thruxton and come up with a kit based on your needs, wants and budget.
 

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Just completed the Keyless install on my 2013 T100 Bonneville SMQ. Impressive piece of kit indeed! It all came together fairly easily and DEcosse was there when I needed some guidance. My install had a few side effects due to my other mods of full LED turn signals/brake light/headlamp & a Kisan Signal Minder auto cancel device. DEcosse went above and beyond supporting his product and helped me through troubleshooting the lighting issues...even found me a local supplier of a diode I needed to install!

Very happy with the performance and seamless use of this system. :grin2:
 
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