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Discussion Starter #1
So - this is "Keyless Ignition - Part Trois"

Now that the Sombra supplies from the 'Part Deux' model appear to be exhausted - have not been able to find any recently - had to come up with another system based on new donor module.
(there may some isolated Sombra units out there but hard to bank on at this time)

See this thread for previous details on the 'Part Deux' - Sombra based model
(includes video demo of operation which is essentially same between the two systems)

So I had to find an alternative. I wanted to have the same core feature, it that it would not only serve as being 'Keyless' but also hands-free.
Hands-free of course means not having to actually remove the remote from your pocket or press the function button, but just have it detect/enable when in proximity of the bike.
I recently got a Directed 2102T PKE (Passive Keyless Entry) to play with as it appeared to meet the fundamental criteria



There are pluses & minuses vs the Sombra.

Plus - EXTREMELY compact; readily available;

Minus - is inverted logic - has active 'armed' signal rather than active 'dis-armed' (which Sombra has as configurable option); no on-board immobilizer relay or lamp flash outputs; only one remote per kit; a bit more expensive.

The latter two in the 'minus' column are not really show-stoppers. But does mean if you want these features, you have to add couple of external relays. (you could argue however the KeyLess as a whole is anti-theft)

To deal with the inverted logic of the 'Armed' vs 'Dis-Armed' active states I had to revise the control circuit.
The remote needs some special attention also: When the remote is in proximity of the controller, it flashes the remote continuously; there is a provision on a car for a remote battery saver however, whereby you press the brake and it turns off the remote; then when car door opens it resets it back on.
So I had to figure out how to turn on/off the remote (bike has brake but no doors!) and also not only latch the ignition output, but also the trigger from the 2102T.
So all of that is integrated into the new control board and remarkably even my prototype still fits inside the incredibly small 2102T enclosure.
I discovered that if I tied BOTH the brake & 'door open' input triggers to the 2102T to the ignition output, as soon as the ignition is set (by pulling clutch lever, same as before) it would turn off the remote and conversely turn it back on when the ignition latch is dropped. No need to tie externally, all comes together at the module!

Here is block diagram of the new controller (the 'Armed' input - now an inhibit rather than an enable):




And here all buttoned up inside the 2102T controller.



This one has a discreet LED harness for the 'Ready' state - it's for a non-Triumph.
On the Triumphs everything will come out of the small connector on the front and integrate through the OEM alarm connector and use the OEM alarm LED in the dash

Functionally, looking pretty good so far!
The kit actually comes with TWO antennas and a provision for an optional third (not included) - however one appears to be plenty for bike operation.
 

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Very interesting .

So will this wire up through the key switch and security connector ?
Any issues with moisture that makes its way under the seat for those of us that have no choice but to go out in the rain ? I know its not a lot . But I did note water stains in the battery tray when I was removing everything and cleaning up my many many extra wires under the seat .

I am still very very happy with my V2 and I am in no way wanting or needing an upgrade . Though the space savings are very tempting

Nice work as usual Ken !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
.... Any issues with moisture that makes its way under the seat for those of us that have no choice but to go out in the rain ? ...
Well that is a problem with any automotive intended alarm accessory parts - they are not water-resistant in any way & intended for inside cabin installation.
This one probably easier to seal up than the Sombra which has a lot more spaces that open into the enclosure: the solution is to either hermetically seal it up completely (silicone or similar) or put it in another enclosure. Under the seat should generally be a dry zone.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is the latest revision based on the 2102T

Controller with Power Relays:



Controller - Plug n Play for Triumph

(Disposable Bic Lighter illustrates how compact this module is!)



D'Ecosse Control Board installed inside the 2102T



And the Control board itself



This board also includes a 'Ready' output (which for example can be used to drive a seat solenoid) and light flash output (flashes signals when arming/disarming as you leave/approach bike) and the status LED driver.
 

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I just ordered one to replace my headache of an ignition barrel. How did you make the triumph harness plug n play? It all seems like jibberish to me. Your posts don't usually make sense to me until I have all the pieces in my hands though. I'll be back with questions when it comes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, yes - that is the basis for the kit - but as I said above that by itself is not enough. You need to have some auxiliary controller to go along with it.
In my case that is the latch control circuit represented by the block diagram in the first post and turned into hardware you can see in the pics in post 7 (3rd & 4th pics of the control board which I embedded inside the 2102T controller)

If you don't add the solid-state control board, you could possibly do something with a couple of relays* (in addition to the main power switching relays) using similar technique I showed as the alternative switching/latch control in the part deux revision.
* the problem with using relays for the control logic in this instance vs the part deux, is that in the case of the 2102T, the active output is when it's armed; which would mean you would connect to a normally closed relay that opens when you have it active (armed state) - that means the relay would have to be on all the time when ignition is off = power drain.
 

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:smackglass: Okay I'd very much like to avoid unnessary drain with relays and I kind of get what you are talking about now. Again late browsing, hasty buys, sorry... I'm up to the challenge though and I could really use some help. It looks very technical. Anything to get my Tona to run again and stay that way. Is the circuit something I can make at home with parts from Radio Shack? I've never made a circuit from scratch and my only experience with circuit boards in general is re-soldering broken connections in my kids toys and the HDMI ports on the TV. I'd love to go to a Fry's but they don't exist in Massachusetts. One more reason I miss So Cal :(

-Just watched a basic tutorial from MIT on circuit boards and I think I can do it.
 
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