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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So yesterday I picked up my cheap Daytona 955i from Blackfordby, presented very well looked very well kept, generally speaking its in just about above average condition cosmetically from a very nice gentleman for around 2.8k (can't find any daytonas down my way for less than £3.5k). I rode it back to Woking, Surrey yesterday which gave me opportunity to discover the bikes personality and general state of health. On the way back home via the m1 yesterday we sat at a steady 70-80 mph, taking regular stops checking the engine for oil leaks, we found none which was good, and a general check over every 30 miles and all is fine, no metal flakes in oil etc. But the bike seems to have a habit of very low idle and then stalling once its been running for extended periods at speed, I have adapted to this by blipping the throttle from sustained long runs and she settles back to her idle no problems after around 30 seconds, so that's the 1st noticeable issue that needs sorting. She isn't 100% happy though, maybe it's because I am used to riding the Sprint RS but the midrange really seems very indecisive, sometimes it comes on strong when asked, other times it tends to bog a bit when called upon, maybe that's because I am used to the RS's excellent mid range surge that comes on rather urgently when asked for in almost any gear; but I would expect the issue to be more consistent if it was a simple case of getting used to a more revvy engine; and it does seem to wander about in terms of weather it picks up when asked. On the plus side, when the engine is really spinning above 7k, it does deliver its power very well at the higher range (and sounds amazing), but I was expecting it to be faster and more powerful than it feels, I think it's faster and quicker than the Sprint RS, but I was expecting the margin to be much more noticeable. I have a patch of fast road down my way the sprint RS will easily touch 130 imperial leptons by the time it comes to call upon the anchors; and I have to say I did the same in the Daytona and the performance was much of the same, if only slightly faster(i think); im not dissapointed, just a little underwhelmed. The other thing I noticed is a very distinctive rumble coming from the top of the engine, but it only happens when it's revving, so I am quite worried about that.

When I got home I decided to remove the fuel tank and start doing some initial mechanical evaluations of the bike post-ride, first issue was removing the carbon tank cover that's on the right hand side of the bike (when looked at from your riding position) that covers the fuel connectors, one of the bolts just spins inside the tank as the captive brass thread has sheered inside the hole, not a good sign as you can't get to the fuel plate without removing that panel; immediately i realised that its unlikely to have had any sort of fuel system maintenance for quite some time with this panel being stuck to the tank, so i had to remove all the fairings and extract the tank from the bike with the offending panel still attached and eventually had to break the panel off the tank, and cut out the bolt head to gain access to the fuel system panel for inspection. This now needs to be drilled out, and a new brass captive thread epoxied in, and a new carbon panel i managed to find on ebay last night is now on its way. I have a feeling this bike is going to be a difficult one.

I syphoned the tank, and removed the fuel system assembly, not surprised to find the date code of the fuel filter being last changed back in 2010 thats 11 years, the rubber seal is cracked and broken and bodged with sealant; which is worrying as the last record of a service stamp was at a garage not a home mechanic; so the basket back at fowlers parts is quickly filling up again. Removed the fuel sender pipe and there was all this brown crud around the bottom, thought that was a bit strange, then noticed inside the tank cap all this white what looked like dry toothpaste on the inside of the cap, turns out this is automotive car polish, so the tank has been polished with autoglym (not bad in itself) but clearly it's been smothered in the stuff like an essex girl sunbathing over its lifetime and the dry polish has worked itself into the tank, its all inside this brown scaly crap, I think (i hope) I might have stumbled upon the cause of the cutting out after long runs, and possibly the reluctance in the midrange sometimes..the fuel pump can't compensate for the demand quickly enough when load changes if its compromised in any way this includes old fuel filters that are 11 years old (should be changed every 3 years or 30k miles whatever is sooner) and crud in the tank putting strain on the pump. So I am ordering a whole new fuel pump, filter, seals, and sender unit, and will wash the tank with detergent and refit, at least i know then that all things tank related are newly replaced. I'm also going to have to get the fuel injection rail apart and check it for blockages..great start this.

Then onto the airbox, it felt very loose on top of the engine, this might be a good sign as that rumble noise when revving might have been a simple case of the box vibrating, the middle bolt that clamps the air filter to the inside of the box was missing completely, so the airbox has all the screws around the OUTSIDE but the one KEY bolt that clamps the case to the filter seals was missing..oh deary me. This means that the air filter will just vibrate around inside the box, like a great big thing vibrating in a box..another good sign..sort of that possibly that's the cause of the rumble. I guess we will find out sooner or later. So I get the airbox apart and find more bodgyness, the velocity stacks inside have all this weird sealant gunge thats flaking off...no no no...this is just getting worse and worse. None of it appeared to be loose, but it is coming away from the plastic so it either was about to or has already started to, the SAI dampening sponge is also missing so that going to rattle too so again feeling optimistic about the rumble noise being plastic fantastic, not cammy whammy fingers crossed eh??

So I guess I will keep you posted, she also needs a few other rectifications, she has a horrible, badly fitted carbon wheel hugger, so that's going and in place a factory spec chain guard going back in. If anyone has one available from a single swingarm RS, ST DAYTONA etc let me know as they are all the same from what i can tell.

She has daytime running lights, I always feel this puts unnecessary load on the already fragile electrics, so that's going over to a full sidelights, main beam and off assembly, she has some avon's on her, not a massive fan of avon tyres, will probably put michelin road 5 on like the sprint has, and she has the most ugly double bubble, and demon shorty, those are going and a carbon high level tor can going in with a standard screen.
 

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Definitely shouldn’t bog down and should be a little bit faster than a sprint but I don’t know what that equate to on your special private test track.
Some of your symptoms could be the fuel filter/pump but you might also want to do valves and throttle body balance.
when you say the air box was loose, do you mean the two halves moved or the whole thing was loose? I ask because that middle bolt doesn’t do much so even if it was missing it would make the box loose. If it’s the whole air box then check the front mounting as there’s a plastic finger that locates into a gromet. if the finger breaks off then the air box isn’t positively mounted.
 

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2000 Speed Triple 955i
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Assuming you have the stock reg/rec reducing the load on the generator is actually a bad thing. The stock R/R deals with unused power by shunting it back across the stator which is bad news. The more load you use the less it has to shunt and the longer the system will last. Check out the charging diagnostics /upgrade sticky in the Speed Triple forum for more details.

Get TuneECU and check the throttle position sensor is properly zeroed as well, this can cause a low idle /stalling if the bike thinks the throttles are slightly open with they're not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Definitely shouldn’t bog down and should be a little bit faster than a sprint but I don’t know what that equate to on your special private test track.
Some of your symptoms could be the fuel filter/pump but you might also want to do valves and throttle body balance.
when you say the air box was loose, do you mean the two halves moved or the whole thing was loose? I ask because that middle bolt doesn’t do much so even if it was missing it would make the box loose. If it’s the whole air box then check the front mounting as there’s a plastic finger that locates into a gromet. if the finger breaks off then the air box isn’t positively mounted.
Yeah, the airbox it was wobbling about a bit, not unattached but loose. I haven't been back in the shed yet as I am being a lazy bugger and sitting in bed.

With reference to the cutting out and periodic reluctance, especially at lower rpm, i'm starting with the fuel system overhaul, that's one less issue in the chain we can then move onto coil packs, plugs and sensors etc as a process of elimination before we start considering valve clearances; throttle body balancing, final tunes and the like. It's pointless doing a final tune or throttle body balance if any of the other systems are faulty anyway, but yes I agree with you.
 

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Triumph Daytona 955i DSSA. Triumph Trophy 900. Honda Mtx125.
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Oooo....what a lovely pair !!!!!
Lots to do there mate. Please do keep updates going to here. I love to see people turn around problems with bikes. Especially new, to them, ones.
I think when you get her sorted you are going to be mighty pleased you got her.
When all hooked up they are a lovely ride for a sportbike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK so this afternoon I got a rollocking from the missis for being in bed still, so I got up and went out to the shed.

I thought I would get started today on looking at the airbox, and establishing why the thing is loose.

On closer inspection, the airbox bracket that is supposed to be attached to the top of the engine was missing completely!

missing airbox bracket.jpg

So I was able to rectify that, I have a box of spare brackets, bolts, nuts all from homer when he met his demise on a roundabout a year and a half ago. Sure enough.....Homers bracket has been attached!

spare airbox bracket found .jpg

I then turn my attention to the airbox itself, thought I would remove the velocity stacks, lubricate them with silicone spray and remove all that nasty bodge-it sealant that started peeling away.

weird sealant crud .jpg

Then I noticed more from bodge-it-ben, the plastic locating pin on the underside of the airbox was damaged, and had been bodged with a diy self tapping wood screw, and a ton of silicone sealant. o_Oo_O

bodged airbox pin.jpg diy self tapping.jpg

So i removed all that nonsense, and made up a new pin out of a piston gudgeon pin (again from homer), a bolt, and a bent bit of bracket. I drilled a hole in the base of the airbox, and used an o-ring either side of the hole to make an airtight seal once it was tightened down, and was sure to use a self-locking nut on the inside of the airbox.

my solution.jpg o-ring inside.jpg o-ring outside.jpg

Much neater

754064


The airbox now locates securely to the top of the engine, and the metal bracket has just enough flexibility for it to yield into place without having to be super accurate. I noticed beforehand that because the airbox was not located on the pin, the seal against the idle control valve that sits against the base of the airbox wasn't sealing as the box was flapping up and down, even though it was bolted down with the front bracket as there was no anchor point for it to pull against. I am sure that this is the main cause of the engine cutting out after sustained runs, the air will push the airbox up, breaking the seal of the idle control valve, the ecu would then compensate, then you slow down to a stop, the airbox falls back down against the idle control valve, the ecu has already been compensating for an air gap that shouldn't be there, and all of a sudden it seals again, and it cant calculate it quick enough before it cuts out. That's my theory. And I hope that was the cause of the rumbling sound, but we wont find out for a few weeks yet as I have the fuel tank in bits.

And about the fuel tank, I managed to remove the rest of that offending cover panel bolt by heating it with a soldering iron, and i wound it out with a pair of needle nose pliers, the brass thread is still in the hole, so I applied heat to it and it re-seated into the hole and cooled off its now solid again. Took the fuel cap apart and cleaned all the auto-glyn crap out of it, and one of the vent hoses were blocked, so took a drill and unblocked them, tank is now ready for a soapy wash inside, and a dry and I have a new fuel sender, fuel pump, fuel filter all on order from Fowlers.
 

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Don't forget to change the rubber pipe on the fuel filter assembly. And what part of the UK are you in i'm near Northampton. Could remap it for you if you are near. Edit just seen you are in Surrey bit distant that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So now the airbox has been sorted for now; i thought its time to check over the fuel injection rail, injectors, o-rings and hoses.

I'm glad i did, look at the state of these. We have one mashed up o-ring on the far left, the middle one has two smaller o-rings and the one of the far right is cracking. The middle injector was actually loose inside the throttle body, its so important that your fuel injectors get a good seal for your engine to run properly. So it looks like I am adding a set of injector o-rings, to my list. Ill probably go for the viton ones as these don't look like they are the corect o-rings anyway.

20210504_201334.jpg

But more than that, look at how dirty they are, not sure what that white crud is

20210504_201459.jpg

So I get my isopropyl alcohol out and give them a good clean with a toothbrush, but I might have my specialist give them a flow test whilst they are out of the bike and i am waiting for the new o-rings.

user.jpg

I checked the fuel rail, and all seems clear, as well as the fuel pipe so that's good news. But the idle control valve seems to have its o-ring missing, and the vacuum lines are all cracked and shot.

20210504_191846.jpg 20210504_202842.jpg 20210504_202906.jpg 20210504_203218.jpg

So those also need to be ordered, they will have an effect on the performance of the engine no doubt.

Last job of the evening was to clean out the throttle bodies, they were all gunged up.

20210504_210808.jpg

This evenings completed work, clean injectors, clean throttle bodies, and a bunch of knackered o-rings and hoses in the bin.

20210504_220545.jpg 20210504_220615.jpg
 

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A lot of good work there

The middle injector was actually loose inside the throttle body
I know you know this because you just did the job - but of course the injectors do not go on the throttle bodies but directly on the head. :D

One mod you can do on the TB's when they are out - on the underside of the bodies below the throttles there is a 'step' - some polishing work with a dremel to blend it out will improve the flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah yes of course, they do go directly on the head. I am an experienced car hobby mechanic, and am just used to seeing injectors being attached to the inlet manifolds or above the throttle bodies in the case with more higher performance engines. Only been riding for 4 years. 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so here is the list of parts being ordered from fowlers:

DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Swinging Arm Single sided swingarm
Screw, Pan/Hd, Tx, M6 x 12, Slv
T3331043
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)2 ×
£0.53
£1.06
Screw, Tx, Pan/HD, M6 x 16, Slv
T3330334
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)2 ×
£1.45
£2.90
Label, Chain & Tyres
T3900092
1-3IN STOCK1 ×
£3.12
£3.12
Screw, P/HD Tx, Shld, M6 x 16, S
T3331517
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)2 ×
£0.53
£1.06
Chainguard
T2057363
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£8.28
£8.28
Hose Guide
T2057359
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£0.73
£0.73
Washer, 6.4 x 14 x 1.6
T3555004
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)2 ×
£0.78
£1.56
DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Fuel Pump and Filters 207555
Fuel Pressure Regulator
T1241093
1-3IN STOCK1 ×
£46.33
£46.33
Seal, Mounting Plate
T1241054
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£33.32
£33.32
Fuel Pump, EFI
T1240101
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£39.06
£39.06
HOSE FUEL 45MM E25
T3620395
1-3IN STOCK1 ×
£5.41
£5.41
DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Throttles/Injectors and Fuel Rail 207555
O Ring, Injector, Upper
T1245016
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)3 ×
£2.87
£8.60
O Ring, Transition Piece
T3600082
IN STOCK3 ×
£2.09
£6.26
LOWER O RING INJECTOR
T1240355
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)3 ×
£1.62
£4.86
DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Fuel Tank and Fittings
Fuel Level Sender
T2400526
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)2 ×
£73.94
£147.89
Label, Fuel Tank
T3900194
IN STOCK1 ×
£3.12
£3.12
Pipe, Fuel, 40mm
T3622503
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£2.03
£2.03
DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Idle Speed Control
O ring
T3600037
1-3IN STOCK1 ×
£0.83
£0.83
Grommet
T1241063
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£2.20
£2.20
DAYTONA 955i (From VIN 132513) – Airbox
Seal
T2201757
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£9.23
£9.23
Silencer
T2201762
NOT IN STOCKAdd to Basketto Order(see FAQ)1 ×
£6.78
£6.78

I have ordered two fuel sender pipes, as the Sprint RS's one has just given up the ghost! and I only just replaced the fuel filter on it literally a month and a half ago. I have also ordered a new fuel pressure regulator; so basically everything fuel related is being renewed inside the tank, along with the 0-rings and gaskets. I have even ordered a new tank safety sticker, and the OEM style chainguard. (im sad like that).

The rear hugger will be ripped off next, it's a horrible puke inducing abomination, along with the demon shorty pipe..:sick: but I am waiting for my abba superbike stand to arrive before going down lower on the bike, I have the stock Daytona exhaust which will be going back on; but I want to find an OEM TOR carbon hi level can for the bike if anyone knows one going.

Also have new plugs, air filter and fuel filter on the way from ebay, as there is a much broader price range available there than fowlers.

The fuel injectors are booked in with scott at Abbey Motorsport Injector cleaning and testing for next wednesday. They are going to put the injectors onto their ASNU tester and cleaning system to evaluate the condition of the injectors/clean and service them if necessary. I will be doing a video of the process and be adding it to my youtube channel, and will link it to this thread.

Next job is to do a compression test of the engine itself, I think it will be fine but might as well whilst the bike is in bits and access is easy, that way if there are any issues its easier to sort now than finding out later on down the line. I'm also going to be testing the coil packs using my Huntron Curve Tracer, a pretty awesome bit of kit so stay tuned.
 

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Don´t worry - the impression that the Daytona does not go much faster than the Sprint is partly right. I had a 99 Sprint ST with measured 98 rwh and that typical fat middle. It was a blast.

My 2002 Tona has the less meaty middle. But beware once you keep her between 8k and 11k on full throttle - on the first occasion it took me half a mile to stop giggling and shaking my head in disbelief.

Currently you are diving deeply into your bike and you should receive the reward once fuel pressure is back where it needs to be. The slightly boring middle can partly be cured by the right TuneEcu-tune depending on your setup. My bike likes the Julian tune a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Don´t worry - the impression that the Daytona does not go much faster than the Sprint is partly right. I had a 99 Sprint ST with measured 98 rwh and that typical fat middle. It was a blast.

My 2002 Tona has the less meaty middle. But beware once you keep her between 8k and 11k on full throttle - on the first occasion it took me half a mile to stop giggling and shaking my head in disbelief.

Currently you are diving deeply into your bike and you should receive the reward once fuel pressure is back where it needs to be. The slightly boring middle can partly be cured by the right TuneEcu-tune depending on your setup. My bike likes the Julian tune a lot.
Thanks for this, yeah she does have something there over the sprint RS but not being in the best of health due to general lack of care and cost cutting (which is to be expected I suppose with bikes this age, let's be honest) I didn't want to stress her too much after a 140 mile trip home from the Midlands to London, so didn't get much opportunity to break her out so to speak, and I had to behave myself wife followed me back in car with kids..got to set a good example. I did do a hard pull near home on my favourite bit of road, and yeah...there is deffo more power there at the top end, but I think she has more to give and she feels like she isn't fighting fit as they say..

By contrast my sprint RS is in absolutely superb form, and is really fast and powerful, she gets her wheel up if your not paying attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
This afternoon, I got the bike onto the abba stand, and started de-faring the rest of the bike. Found the usual wrong screws, broken tabs and bodged panels, this seems to be a reoccuring theme on this bike:cautious:. Also the bike is absolutely filthy underneath, so it looks like when I am done with the servicing and its all back together, its going to get good degrease and wash, a blast down with some air and a proper treatment of ACF-50.

20210507_162135.jpg 20210507_172238.jpg 20210507_172335.jpg

With all the issues being discovered aside, it was nice to get this abomination off the bike.

20210507_172249.jpg

Straight into the bin that goes....

20210507_174821.jpg
 

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UK T Guy, did you break the hugger when removing it?
 
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