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John...Mine is a 4 speed, I think you have a 5....I don't know for sure, but I bet Paul does know if the plunger assembly is the same. I know I took my transmission apart 5-6 times, bought new leafs, new pawl bushings and wasted a lot more money and time and the gears never did work well. The plunger cured mine...hope yours goes the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Gradually getting a few more things accomplished.
Made a few studs, which I had forgotten to order.
Dressed up the gearbox sprockets. They weren’t too bad, only needed to remove some minor “sprocket peening.”

Pressed in the reusable cleaned up bearings, new cam bushes, new connecting rod small end bushes, and new gearbox sprocket bushes. Most of the bushes only required minor reaming. I was surprised that the most worn bush of all was the tiny “clutch rod bush.”




Cleaned up the tachometer gearbox.






Not surprising, the threads on both exhaust “finned clips” were stripped. Tapped them to the next larger diameter bolt.




 

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Discussion Starter #103
The stator wire insulation and copper strands were very brittle. After having a difficult time finding the proper replacement wire, I saw in an old post, which I believe it was David_ in_Kansas, who had used Rhode Island Wire. Gave them a ring and they set me up with the color coded wire I needed. Very nice folks.

I attempted a repair by crimping in the new wire, but the old brittle strands then broke next to my repair. At this point, the wires broke snug up to the stator. Being not quite ready to give up and buy a new stator, I cut out some of the winding insulation and was able to salvage a short piece of descent stator wire in which I could crimp on a new section of wire.



Two layers of shrink wrap were then installed followed by dripping in some P-tex around the wire connections for support and protection where I had previously cut out the stator insulation. Hopefully within a few months I’ll see if it will send a charge.


 

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Discussion Starter #104
Following the advice of GPZ and David_ in_Kansas, I rented Buckshot Mike’s “plunger modification kit.” With this precision jig, the process of drilling some holes in the case was a breeze. Taking my time, it was about an hour job. Thank you GPZ and David_ in_Kansas for the recommendation.





Even the gearbox camplate appears to have a happy face.



After I receive a couple more parts, the next step is to attach the case halves together.
 

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I don't even see the clutch rod bushing, did you already remove it or is it so worn out that it looks like it's gone?
 

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Discussion Starter #106
In the photo the worn bush is still installed in the main shaft. I did not even know there was a bushing there until I was looking through the parts manual for parts to order. Even then, the old bush was difficult to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
You're funny Paul! I can't believe I have been working on this project for over four years.
 

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You're funny Paul! I can't believe I have been working on this project for over four years.
I have two powdercoated frames, a lower end built, a complete front end, and 4 large bins of parts for my '68 Bonnie that I started in 2005, and my '65 Bonnie that I started in 2007.

Still adding the odd better or new bit to the bins almost weekly. If I'm putting together a rolling project for sale that has a better bit than what I've got in the bins, I make the swap. Sometimes when I'm placing a large order for a client project, I'll add 2 or 3 new bits for one of these two projects in the order to take advantage of shipping. "As it happens", I did so VERY recently!
 

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Discussion Starter #111
It took me awhile, but I did finally determine why the PO was not able to get the underside of the case halves to fit together properly, which had left a sizable gap between the halves on the underside of the case. The threaded hole in the case for the single mounting stud (aft of the intake cam) for securing the two case halves together was cockeyed causing the stud to not be perpendicular to the case which resulted in a misalignment of the case halves. After resolving that installation issue, the case halves aligned perfectly during a dry fit, then later for the final fit.

The repair manual makes it sound easy to install new clutch drive/rebound rubbers using a tommy bar if necessary. After some frustration, I screwed the clutch hub onto my workbench, then using a strap wrench wrapped around it, and with a little rotation of the wrench the rubbers were easily pressed in with fingers.







Thanks to johntioc for answering my question regarding the malfunctioning new Emgo oil pump. When I received the replacement oil pump, I could clearly see why the first new pump was malfunctioning. One, as johntoic had stated, the spring housing inside the small bolt was machined well oversized causing the spring to not position correctly. Also the seat for the ball was not machined but had a sharp, uneven edge. The replacement Emgo pump worked flawlessly.



After messing with the awkward placement of the aftermarket dipper switch/horn which would be too far from the throttle, I ended up positioning the horn button next to the left grip then the kill button semi-near the right grip. As the carburetor air slides are missing, the choke mechanism on the handle bar is merely a placebo for mounting the dipper switch/ kill button.




Fabricated a frontend electrical harness for the “rats nest” of a junction box in the headlamp bucket. About a year or so ago when I installed the colored warning lenses in the headlamp bucket, I used some strong strapping tape to retain the loose warning “snap in” lenses into place. Recently I found that was not an effective method so I installed circlips to keep the lenses snugged up tight. Appears to work well.



The brake switch and gearshift rubber already cracked and began to rot while merely sitting in the garage. Wrapped them in heat shrink which appears to temporarily resolve that issue.

After I receive the new pistons, the next step is for the cylinders to be bored +.020 due to the corrosion of the cylinder walls. Then it’s finally time to install the top end!
 

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I find that using the transmission mainshaft, chucked in a vice, makes installing cush rubbers a real simple task.

I've been having hit-and-miss issues with rubber bits from all of my suppliers (5 different companies) for years. Some batches are better than others, regardless of country of origin.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Thank you Cal30M1. After trying the tape, O ring, zip tie, and star washers, the circlips seem to do the trick.

John
 

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Thank you Cal30M1. After trying the tape, O ring, zip tie, and star washers, the circlips seem to do the trick.

John
Is there a groove in the lens housing for the circlip, or does just the tension of the clip around the tube hold them in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #116
o1marc, There is a very slight indentation, but I was able to gently press the lens face and rubber washer so the circlip will set below the four ribs along the length of the lens housing which are supposed to "snap" into position on the headlamp bucket. The slightly undersized circlip will also retain it in position. I don't remember the exact size of circlip, but it was metric which worked better than the SAE that was available to me.
John
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Yes Tritn Thrashr, the corrosion pits were quite deep. I attempted honing with a course honing stone, but it became apparent after some time and honing pressure that this was not going to be adequate to remove the effects of the corrosion. A machinist bore the worst cylinder to a couple thousands under the +.020 in which there was still a minute amount of pitting remaining. Most of that should come out with the final honing with only a minute amount of pits remaining. Hopefully it won't smoke too much. Merely trying to extend the life of this cylinder block.
 
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