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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Changed the oil and filter of my '01 bonneville last friday, put in some good mobile 1 motorcycle full synthetic racing 4t in 10w-40. I couldn't find any of the "recommended" weights and I have seen this oil suggested before as a perfectly good oil for a bonneville. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

the oil made a huge difference in the way the engine feels and sounds; smooth and healthy rather than raspy and harsh. It shifts much better also. The bike only has 800 miles on it, but I am sure the oil I drained was the showroom oil from 2001. it was coffee colored when it came out. next up is a UNI air filter and matching carb screws :D to replace the motley assortment I used when I had t to replace the factory screws, which were ailing.

Anyway, my question is: the drain plug is now dripping oil. Not lots of oil, but it's lost a good 20 drops since I put the oil in. What did I do wrong? Should I work the plug out a few turns and wipe the contact surfaces dry? I know the washer and plug were a bit oily when I screwed them back in. Maybe it's just not tight enough? I tightened the bolt to "hand" tight with a 13mm rachet. Any advice will help.

Thanks!

Erik.
 

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You did re-install the aluminum crush (sealing) washer? If not, go to an auto parts store now and buy one (or more). They're 14mm inside-diameter.

The recommended torque is 25NM. I wouldn't make it any tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I did re-install the washer. I'm working on her again thursday, I'll try drying off the contact surfaces and see if that helps.
 

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Fantastic, I can sense a new crush washer debate coming up...:D
Me too! Personally, I always use a new one as they cost next to nothing and the hassle you get if the old one leaks is not worth the potential saving involved re-using it.
 

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+ 1 on new washer.
I hate oil drips, and if the choice was to try overtightening to get rid of a drip and strip threads....


mind you, the OP is up for the cost of a new washer and new oil now too!

BTW - how did your bike go 10 years with only 800 clicks?
 

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Make sure the washer is clean, with no grit on it, and not damaged - ie no scratches. I've never suffered a leak from a sump plug whether using new washers or re using the old one - providing you make sure all the surfaces are properly clean and damage free.
 

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I've never suffered a leak from a sump plug whether using new washers or re using the old one - providing you make sure all the surfaces are properly clean and damage free.
Just about to say the same thing!

The only problem I have had was in my less-experienced days, when I tried to cure a dripping sump plug by tightening ... and tightening ... and then stripping the %$£%T& thread. That was an expensive mistake. It doesn't need to be tight. It needs to be clean and snug.
 

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Don't know how tight 'hand' tight is, some people's hands are bigger than others!
Beg steal or borrow a torque wrench.
2001, 800 miles WOW, but what a sin to do so few miles on a great bike, how long have you had it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought it in early march, and got it clean enough to ride by april. Took a lot of scrubbing, carb cleaner, interweb research and elbow grease. Now I'm working on the finer details of "running," like degreasing and lubricating the chain properly, changing the changeable filters, and tuning it for the intake/exhaust mods I'm making. I'm still due to visit Social Distortion for a carb balance and second opinion, he's nearby and has offered to help me finish the job. It's cool to get a basicly brand new bike for less than half of MSRP, but it's a PITA to work out the gremlins that dwell in bikes that have sat...

I feel bad for the bike too. The original owner bought it in 2001 and it was last registered in 2004, so it's sat for 6+ years. And 700 miles in four years is pretty depressing too, I've put 200 miles on it in three weeks and we've had nothing but rainy, cold weather this spring.

I'm going to screw the bolt out half way and clean the contact points, and see how far that gets me. I know I need to buy a torque wrench, but it's not in the cards until next month. The bride is already upset that the oil costs more than the car oil change...To me, hand tight is not that tight. More "snug" than tight, as it were.

I'll let you know if she's still dripping this weekend. It's such a slow drip I'm not worried about anything in the short term anyway.
 

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I bought it in early march, and got it clean enough to ride by april. Took a lot of scrubbing, carb cleaner, interweb research and elbow grease. Now I'm working on the finer details of "running," like degreasing and lubricating the chain properly, changing the changeable filters, and tuning it for the intake/exhaust mods I'm making. I'm still due to visit Social Distortion for a carb balance and second opinion, he's nearby and has offered to help me finish the job. It's cool to get a basicly brand new bike for less than half of MSRP, but it's a PITA to work out the gremlins that dwell in bikes that have sat...

I feel bad for the bike too. The original owner bought it in 2001 and it was last registered in 2004, so it's sat for 6+ years. And 700 miles in four years is pretty depressing too, I've put 200 miles on it in three weeks and we've had nothing but rainy, cold weather this spring.

I'm going to screw the bolt out half way and clean the contact points, and see how far that gets me. I know I need to buy a torque wrench, but it's not in the cards until next month. The bride is already upset that the oil costs more than the car oil change...To me, hand tight is not that tight. More "snug" than tight, as it were.

I'll let you know if she's still dripping this weekend. It's such a slow drip I'm not worried about anything in the short term anyway.
I truly hope my bike does not have 'contact points' and would not have thought any Hinckley bike would! We are talking ignition system here are we?
 

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I think he's referring to the contact of the drain plug and the casting.


You may have gotten a little dirt or something in there so it doesn't make a good seal. Or deformation of the washer from the last install may have made it unsealable if installed in a different orientation this time. By a new crush washer, and an automotive paint strainer so you drain and reuse your oil.
 

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I think he's referring to the contact of the drain plug and the casting.


You may have gotten a little dirt or something in there so it doesn't make a good seal. Or deformation of the washer from the last install may have made it unsealable if installed in a different orientation this time. By a new crush washer, and an automotive paint strainer so you drain and reuse your oil.
Cheers Marc, I saw the phrase 'contact points' and it must have triggered a flash-back!
 

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I have an 01 with 46k...oil has been changed every 3k...same crush washer
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I blasted the washer and bolt clean with a little wd40 today, screwed it back down and went around the block a few times. Parked it, walked the dog and came back. it's still leaking. Maybe ten drops when parked hot. Tomorrow I'll go get a new crush washer and try that.
 

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Just about to say the same thing!

The only problem I have had was in my less-experienced days, when I tried to cure a dripping sump plug by tightening ... and tightening ... and then stripping the %$£%T& thread. That was an expensive mistake. It doesn't need to be tight. It needs to be clean and snug.
Yeah, I did one worse in my youth. I stripped the oil drain plug on my 1980 Suzuki GS400ES, but then found a way to tighten it, or so I thought (probably just cross-threaded it). Ten minutes later, driving at 110 km/h, the plug came out, spewing oil all over the road and my rear tire. Given that I was a novice rider then, it's a miracle I stopped the bike upright. Memories of that are probably why I bought my oil drain valve http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/161810-2008-thruxton-build-log-28.html#post1896758
 
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