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I’ve recently bought a 2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050 & it wasn’t charging the battery. Took to garage for new regulator / rectifier & a new stator. The stator tested fine so wasn’t replaced but the RR was knackered so had that replaced with a better unit than the stock one.

All charging fine now at 14.2V but it’s been difficult to start on the button.

One thing the mechanic mentioned to me before I left was it would be a good idea to replace the battery when affordable as I’ve no idea how old the battery is?

Started shopping online & all the batteries that are showing for my bike are different to what’s in it? Eg. The identifying numbers & letters etc.

Please can someone take a look at the image of the battery that is in my bike currently & tell me if the last owner was a total whopper & fitted the wrong type of battery?

I’d be eternally grateful as this issue is driving me nuts & id like to be able to enjoy what’s left of the sunny days this Autumn (Fall) season.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Workshop manual spec:

YUASA YTX12BS
10Ah capacity

Peak current (starting current) 180A


If the second number is the peak current you should be fine.

Don't know this brand though.


Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Workshop manual spec:

YUASA YTX12BS
10Ah capacity

Peak current (starting current) 180A


If the second number is the peak current you should be fine.

Don't know this brand though.


Fred
Numax is quite a well known brand, but my issue is the size of the battery.

Yes it says it gives 210 CCA but I have no idea how old it is so it needs replacing.

I’m going to go with a Motobatt but I’m not sure whether to replace it with their YT12 size or the YTX12 size.

The YT12 (that’s currently installed is much slimmer. Doesn’t require any tools to remove. Just lifts out nicely, yet I’ve read a lot on here about people taking their bikes apart just to change the battery.

So the YTX12 must be much bigger compared to a YT12?
 

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I've replaced a few batteries on my '06 and stuck with the Yuasa YTX12.The original was a factory activated battery because it installs on it's side but I've not had any leaks using the BS - bottle supplied - model. I have to lift the rear of the petrol tank to R/R the battery so the one in your bike is a smaller case version which means smaller plates. A 12 is rather marginal for this bike and is sized to suit the space available so best to go with the best battery available. If you search this forum you will find where some have installed Lithium batteries with smaller physical size, less weight in a higher amp hour rated model, but they do have some downsides also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've replaced a few batteries on my '06 and stuck with the Yuasa YTX12.The original was a factory activated battery because it installs on it's side but I've not had any leaks using the BS - bottle supplied - model. I have to lift the rear of the petrol tank to R/R the battery so the one in your bike is a smaller case version which means smaller plates. A 12 is rather marginal for this bike and is sized to suit the space available so best to go with the best battery available. If you search this forum you will find where some have installed Lithium batteries with smaller physical size, less weight in a higher amp hour rated model, but they do have some downsides also.
Yes the YT12 (currently in bike) is a lot thinner than the YTX12.

For example, as I look at Motobatt which usually has 4 terminal points (it’s their thing), on the YT12 Motobatt there’s only 2 terminals. So that’s how much slimmer they are. It’s like a YTX12 that’s been cut in half, or perhaps a third cut off.

But defo slimmer.

My issue is, with a brand new R/R & stator all fine, charging at 14.2V, I’m still not getting a decent fire rate on the button.

Either it’s sluggish to fire or just doesn’t fire.

So I’m wondering if my battery should be replaced as I’ve no idea how old it is?

Which is all fine but...

...YTX12? or YT12?
 

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I'd go with the YTX12. I don't know what is different between YT and YTX other than dimentions but the smaller physical size might suggest that is less capacity despite the high CCA number.
 

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This voltage would be a load test of the battery. If the voltage drops when cranking over the engine into the 9-10V range, then the battery is not holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If it drops to maybe 11.5V, that's okay.
 

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This voltage would be a load test of the battery. If the voltage drops when cranking over the engine into the 9-10V range, then the battery is not holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If it drops to maybe 11.5V, that's okay.
Yes, or the internal resistance is too high, which causes a voltage drop when high current flowing.
Maybe that's what you meant.



Fred
 

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"Not holding the charge" is a general usage term to describe a battery not responding properly when a load is presented. Whether due to high resistance caused by sufation or some other factor, I simply meant what I wrote as a rule of thumb when assessing the state of charge of a battery. Measurement result, not causation.
 

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If you want to KNOW if the battery is good then have it load tested. It will either pass or fail.
Not always. I had a battery develop an internal crack on the negative terminal; sometimes it worked perfectly, sometimes not at all. Took a long time to isolate the problem, as the bike always started immediately when I checked the terminal screw tightness with a screwdriver. Replaced it with a new one and that problem ended.
 

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That's a unique situation. Measuring the battery voltage while cranking the starter motor is a proper load test. Not necessary to bring to a store to have tested. The starter is probably pulling 80A vs the store testers that might use 100A. There could be the situation where the starter is pulling too many amps causing a weak battery, so there are other causes for the same symptoms.
 
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