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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have new a new exhaust I want to install. But I have been told I need to rejet my bike. Is there a step by step how to someplace I could get a hold of to guide me through this.

I am not an experienced mechanic but I am a quick learner.

-rizzo
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the links...

....this looks like a pain. I don't like working on bikes but I can't stand the sound of my bonneville. the new pipes were a must and don't look hard to put on but this whole re-jet thing looks like a pain. I just want to ride not take the whole thing apart. I am sure I can do it with time ... it will just be a hassle. The small time I have on the week ends for fun should be spent riding not play joe mechanic.

The triumph dealer wants an arm, leg, and my first born child to even look at my bike so I'll do it myself. I am to cheep to pay someone.
 

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It is really rather simple - just be sure you have the right tools. If you try to "make do' with some stuff, problems may ensue. Buy a package of allen head carburetor screws from one of the vendors before so you can replace the phillips head screws - easier to deal with the allen heads.
Maybe buy a Haynes manual too, if you do not have one. Good investment.
 

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float bowls only

To keep it simple in my opinion
you really only need to change the main jets...
125 mains if only doing slipon exhausts.
get a small ratchet with I believe a 6mm socket
that will hold a small phillips head bit
and remove the 4 phillips head screws
on the bottom of the carb float bowls using
upward pressure to avoid stripping the small screws...
the left carb rear screw will be a bit difficult due to tight fit
and the tubes in the way but you can do it...
I didn't bother but you can replace
the phillip screws with allen head screws for easy
removal next time. For me the phillips socket works
you can get "Kehin" carb jets at just about
any motorcycle shop and they can show you
what they look like in the bottom of the carb.
The jets will be brass color in the center
of the open carb bottom they just unscrew like normal...
do not over tighten any of this stuff
it will strip threads...
 

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we will become mechanics

Rizzo,

I kind of felt the same way with my Bonnie as well. Wasn't sure if I wanted to work on it myself or not. Really the riding is the main attraction... but, I've been reading this forum for quite a while and I think (with patience) the working on our bikes part of the fun will become addictive. So far I have only done oil changes, chain lubes, and my first chain adjustment, but I finally ordered the Haynes manual and am getting ready to tackle much harder projects (like the 12000 mi. service). I'm still on stock pipes and it does suck, but also I'm cheap and don't want to pour money into a dealer to do stuff. So ...relax, have a pint and get ready to start working on your bike. Take your time with some of the projects and I think it will be a nice part of this hobby in the long run. I'm already envisioning myself sitting in the garage with the Haynes manual, a cigar, and pint of ale plotting a new mod...

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now another problem

I was looking at my bike seeing how hard it would be to get to that carb when I noticed oil on my engine.

.... it seems NOW my valve covers are leaking oil ever so slightly!

Anybody ever had the problem on theirs?


I called the dealer and they want $240 to fix it.

Also the dealer said if I put on new pipes I should not only rejet but take off some tube that reburns fuel or something. Anyone know what that is all about?
 

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The valve cover leak is very common, easy to fix, and covered under warranty. $240 is too much to fix this.

Fill in your bike details and your location on your profile and we can be more specific when you post a question.

The Jenks guide will give you information about getting into your carburetors, although the jetting recommendations are on the high side. Changing the main jets is easy, but as the others said, replace the carburetor screws the first time you take it apart, will make subsequent jobs much easier.

http://www.triumph-bonneville.com/images/Carb Jetting Info 2007.pdf
 

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Is your bike NEW?

Rizzo,
You mentioned oil leak...
Is your bike new or used? If new it is under warranty...
In anycase don't freak out because it is no big deal...
wipe off the little oil you see and later after riding
see if the oil seepage returns...
it might be OK but it is an easy fix either way...
put your pipes on and rejet...then
go for a ride...
 

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I forgot to mention and WHAT YEAR bike do you have?

As said by others $240. is too much and I think you'll find the problem will probably go away...also the other stuff your dealer mentioned is called the A/I removal kit which removes the sparkplug looking device from next to your spark plug...the vendors here sell a kit you can very easily do yourself in the future but you don't have to do that to change pipes but most would recommend removing the A/I (air injection) since it can turn the header pipes blue...by the way we assumed you have a 2008 or older bike...if your bike is fuel injected forget what I told you...
 

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Rizzo,
Donno if you're still interested in rejetting info. Jenks Bolts has(had) a great one that I used the first time. I'm not sure if it's still around. If you can't find it by an internet search, pm me and I'll send along a copy.
 

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Jenks Bolts manual is the link in my previous post, above.
 

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This is actually for a Speedmaster, but 99.9% the same for the Bonnie.

http://www.dinqua.com/Triumph/carbs1.html

If you are changing the silencers only, chances are you may not need to re-jet anyway. You'll get a different sound, which is what you wanted, but since you haven't changed "Air-In", only "Air-Out", there won't be much of a dramatic effect on the overall jetting.

Read through "Exhaust" sticky, and note that there is only 2 or 3 posters of the entire total that mention rejetting when changing exhaust only.

Also, before getting into any rejetting, study up on the process, both Theory and Application, and be particualrly aware of the relationship between throttle position (1/4, 1/2, 3/4. full, etc.) and where the various jets and needles come into play.

All that said, you may just need to adjust the air bleeds slightly, which is super-easy, and yer done!

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
do I want the round or hex main jet ... and would a 122.5 or a 130 work? The local shop doesn't have 125


To keep it simple in my opinion
you really only need to change the main jets...
125 mains if only doing slipon exhausts.
get a small ratchet with I believe a 6mm socket
that will hold a small phillips head bit
and remove the 4 phillips head screws
on the bottom of the carb float bowls using
upward pressure to avoid stripping the small screws...
the left carb rear screw will be a bit difficult due to tight fit
and the tubes in the way but you can do it...
I didn't bother but you can replace
the phillip screws with allen head screws for easy
removal next time. For me the phillips socket works
you can get "Kehin" carb jets at just about
any motorcycle shop and they can show you
what they look like in the bottom of the carb.
The jets will be brass color in the center
of the open carb bottom they just unscrew like normal...
do not over tighten any of this stuff
it will strip threads...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
its an 04 bonnie black

My bike is an 04 bonnie black and i bought it last year off some guy. I love how it handles and rides. It's faster than my sportster 883 and handles way better. it looks so cool too. However, it sounds like a sewing machine.

I am putting on the new pipes today and trying to buy a 125 main jet but can't find on in INDY. I am going through the phone book.

I want the round one with a flat head screw driver fit not the hex one right?

I get so much contradictory advise on here I don't know who to believe. Do I need to rejet or not? Do I need to take the carb on or leave it off? Do I just do the main jet or more? Is 125 what I want or do I want a 130?

I can't get answers from the dealer. They just want to "look" at it for $100 per hour and can't get me in for a week and a half. It's very frustrating.

So if I can get some answers here... i am going to do it myself.

Who can I trust on here?

As said by others $240. is too much and I think you'll find the problem will probably go away...also the other stuff your dealer mentioned is called the A/I removal kit which removes the sparkplug looking device from next to your spark plug...the vendors here sell a kit you can very easily do yourself in the future but you don't have to do that to change pipes but most would recommend removing the A/I (air injection) since it can turn the header pipes blue...by the way we assumed you have a 2008 or older bike...if your bike is fuel injected forget what I told you...
 
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