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Them slides are worn, but I have seen a lot worse! me I'd have 1000grit wet and dry on them and hopefully get the carbs to work as is. Then replace bits as needed, worn slides will not stop the bike going but could give tick over problems and may weaken mixture slightly, The worst thing they can do is stick open which can be sorted, even new slides in old bodies can stick.
Keep your cash in your wallet for now, and work with what you have, its a good learning curve and so satisfying when one is successful.
 

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Those gouges are too deep. The engine will never run right, although it WILL run. Too much risk of lean mix with that much slop, especially if you work them down to smooth again, even looser!

At least get a replacement pair of slides, relatively cheap, especially from forum members.
 

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Sorry Plewsy I am going with Paul on this one for sure. A
lean mixture is just asking for trouble. It is far easier to
spend a few bucks now on slides, compaired to a piston
later.

I am all about cheap, but that would be the limit.

Pookybear
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I looked into Lund's for restoring the slides. $80 US for each. Triton doesn't have a website as far as I know. This might not be a bad deal considering the cost of new.

I spent about 3 hours cleaning the right carb. The float bowl had been put on backwards :eek: resulting in a gap between it and the body. It was a mess but it's pretty clean now. I will work on the left tomorrow. It's not too bad. Will also change oil, clean oil tank and fuel tank. The fuel tank looks to not be rusty but has some kind of fuel residue goo in the bottom area of the tank. Then I'll get a battery and try to fire it up. Won't be surprised if there are electrical issues.

I read an article - http://www.ironcross.net/sludge%20trap.htm - about the sludge trap and this has me worried. If it fires, I won't run it long. I bought this more as something to work on so it's working out as planned. I would love to ride it but will wait til the time is right. FYI, my neighbor has a Honda 900cc, digital everything, weighs about 10,000 pounds and goes like hell but I'd rather have my Bonnie that doesn't run - yet.

I think I will need a set of Whitworth wrenches. All the parts inside the carb did not fit metric or inch tools. Had to use adjustables and I don't like those very much. Any ideas on what kind of set I will need and where I can get one?
 

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My observations, for what`s it worth!
Throw the old sliders away. Are the internals shot as well?
See:
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/carbDetail_mk1.aspx?float=null&location=SET&fuel=Petrol&engine=4 Stroke&bore=30mm&series=900 Series&carbID=45&numberOnDiagram=12&partID=-1&CarId=null
The slides are roughly $15.50 each, but if you get them sent from the UK, there`s postage/packing etc.
Sets of screws and seals/gaskets are available.
The threads on these carbs are CEI, cycle thread (mostly 26tpi).
Which spanners/wrenches fit, I have no idea. I use a small adjustable
when all else fails. Be careful not to overtighten any of the threaded components.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Caulky,

Thanks for the link to AMAL. I will definitely be needing a gasket kit at least.

After a closer look, the carb bores are equally scored as the slides with the scoring being toward the engine head side. As far as the slides, I'll wait to get it running before I make that decision but now I have some options and sources to consider.

Gotta walk the dog now, then back to the bike. Today is a holiday for us here in the US so I have a free day.

Thanks for everyone's help and comments.
 

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Well, it's down to doing the math.

Bore & sleeve @ $80 each = $160.00
shipping both ways = $30

Carb kits @ $15 each w/ float needle = $30
Needles & needle jets = $30
shipping = $12

Total to rebuild carbs (not incl. labor) = $262

New Amal 930 concentrics (pair) = $360 (shipped)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
GrandPaulZ,

Thanks for the cost breakdown. I think I'll start with the carb kits and eventually do the bore and sleeve. I could use the $98 in savings elsewhere. I'd also like to use as much of the original parts as possible. I'll keep in mind the lean mix the worn slides can cause. Not too worried as I will not be riding very much until I get everything checked out and safe.

I cleaned the tank and fuel taps. The method plewsy showed in his video - with acetone, nuts and bolts - worked great. It took less time than I thought. I worked outside with a breeze to my back. That stuff is volitile. Looked inside with a flash light and could see vapor hanging in the air. Fuel residue disolved almost instantly and I could not see any rust.

Moving on to cleaning the oil tank, lines, etc.
 

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Hi henryanthony are you going to put a liner in the tank?
If you do, you should choose the twin pack type.
Acetone is a great degreaser, I use it if I am soldering nipples onto cables, be careful as it will dissolve most plastics.
Your carbs will be a compromise to new ones but should do an adequate job, if the slides make it too weak you can always lift the needles, so on and so forth.
The slides always wear at the front as this is the vacuum side of the slide, and the slides are pulled hard against the body (relatively)
Use as little sanding as possible you only need rid of the high spots, try to ignore scratches as the can be quite deep.
Work on the slide more, than the body then when you fit new slides work on the body as the slide should be perfect.
You will most likely find the slides will stick, when almost fully open! this is due to the carb top screws being over tightened, so work on the top 1/4 of body will be necessary.
The high spots will show up shiny marks dull them off with 1000 grit wet and dry, then shove the slide back in and try again. As soon as the slide can be removed with little resistance, stop sanding! job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi Plewsy,

Wasn't planning on a liner but, I wasn't planning to do a lot of the things I need to do on this bike. Kind of expected to just get 'er going. :D This forum has gotten my head on straight regarding safety and reliability of 40 year old machinery. I'm in a big rush to ride but know I need to slow down and do it right.

The tank doesn't leak or seem to have any rust. Do you really think I need the liner? While I am working on the bike, should I coat the inside of the tank with something, other than a liner, to prevent rust? Maybe WD 40? Then clean it out again when ready for fuel?

There is very little rust on the entire bike. Rust is limited to some bolt heads and nuts. Front rim and spoke nipples have a bit of rust too. Other than that the rest of the bike is pretty clean which is one of the reasons I bought it.

There is a good sized dent, about the size of a golf ball, on the right side just above the badge. It's about one half inch deep. Owner said it happened during storage and that makes sense since there is no other damage. It's too deep to just fill it. Any ideas on how to bump it out? Being cosmetic, I not very concerned about this now.

The carbs were stuck wide open when I brought the bike home so your comment about that may be right. If that's the case, I'll have them bored and sleeved. Or, residue built up in the bores from not running, someone twisted the accellerator and they stuck. I doubt I would ever run wide open ;) but would want to slow down eventually! Now that you mention it, the slides do seem a bit tight as they reach the top of the bore.

Saw your video on rebuilding the 930s. Nice job and just what I needed. Where do you get the grinding paste?

My greatest problem is finding time to work on the bike. My water heater at home has sprung a leak and will need to be replaced today. $239 installation fee so (I'm cheap), I'll be doing this myself. Not a difficult job but, it will take time. Also in the middle of some other remodeling jobs around the house. Since it was my wife who suggested I buy the Bonnie, I better make sure the remodel jobs take priority!!!
 

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Hi henryanthony,

When I first saw the picture of your bike (nice example) it looked clean, all there and not too messed with. Apart from the neglect it has suffered while its been stored, it was most likely a runner. With new fuel, oil change, sparkplugs and charged battery and a bit of work I would think it would run again, even if rough.

The liner is up to you, if its not leaking, its not leaking! you should at least keep it plenty oily when not in use, and once a year, drain completley when in use. Condensation inside is the biggest killer of fuel tanks, it lurks at the bottom munching away.

For now! use that can of W/D everywhere give everything a good squirt including wheels and cycle parts, your bike is a machine and machines love to be oily. Think the old army way " If it moves oil it, If it doesn't paint it"


A couple of pictures of the dent would be handy, is it reachable from the neck?

Grr! Tyre kickers, twisting throttles, and pulling levers Agh! a pet hate of mine.

Vid :) I might just have a carb with a stiff slide.
You should get "Valve grinding paste" from any decent auto shop. Over here it comes in a tin with a lid at each end, fine one end coarse the other.

Best of luck with your boiler.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi Plewsy,

Here's a pic of the dent. It's about 1/8" or 3.2mm deep. I'd like to fix it without putting any holes in the tank but I guess I'll have to do whatever it takes. Don't want to fill it just with body filler either. Just wouldn't be right in my book.

Also, the screens have been cut off the fuel tap filters. Can the filters alone be purchased or will I need all new fuel taps? Know a good source for these?

Thanks,

Henry

 

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Hi Henry

The 70 model is the best of all, IMHO. It handles so well, goes like a scalded cat and stops at least as well as the later disc braked models. Plus it looks really cool, especially with flatter 'bars.

Dual windtones are available as a repro item, but they are very expensive!

Good luck with the resto. A well restored 70 Bonnie fetches over $10,000 here in Australia!

Craig.
 

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The people who run traditional panel repair shops and tank repainters often have the special hammers needed to beat out dents in tanks. These hammers go in via the filler cap and have a heavy ball type end on a long neck. The work they can do is amazing.
 

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Hi henryanthony,
As for the dent, it is in bad place but not the worst,
you may be able to reach it from the neck, with a piece of 1/2"ish round bar
with a flattened end, a bit like a tyre lever (spoon handle) and bent into a stretched "S" shape might fit in,
you can try and work the dent out, heat will make the job easier.
The creases will be the hardest bit, time and patience the big secret
and a bit of Catty to finish.
As for petrol tap filters I'm not sure if you can buy separately, you can buy small inline filters that will do the job just as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Plewsy,

That's just what I was looking for - encouragement that it is possible to bump it out. I've been dreaming up all sorts of contraptions that might do the trick. The heating was something I had not thought about though. There are some shops around here that rent body repair tools. I'll look into that. Got to get her running first. Might give it a go this weekend. I've had a whole lot of questions answered, now I have to get some work done. Also, got my water heater in OK. Took all day but saved $250 on installation. More Bonnie parts!!!

epynt1050,

I'm going to try to do as much of this myself as I can. I plan on buying a compressor and spray gun and paint it myself too. For me, the doing is better than the having. If I screw up, I'll just paint it again. I actually have a pretty good network of auto body guys available to me but they will all charge something although I would get a discount. Might have to suck it up and pay.

farric1,

I'm glad you like the 70. I couldn't agree with you more about the vintage. I would be happy with any 67 - 70. Just my personal preference.

Thanks all,
 
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