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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just want to say hello. Site has already been a huge help to me. Just picked up an 03 Sprint ST. Only 13k. It's a little rough cosmetically compared to what I would normally buy, but it runs great and I got it for a REALLY good price. It does have the hard starting when cold, that seems to be somewhat common, but runs really well once warmed up. Over the next couple of weeks I plan on doing a lot of routine maintenance to it. Today I cleaned, adjusted, and lubed the chain. This coming week I plan to flush the brakes, change the oil/filter, flush cooling system, change plugs, change air filter, adjust the valves, and drain and fill the fork oil. I’ll probably go with a heavier weight fork oil to help with the front suspension. Anything I should do that I’m missing? I should add this is going to be my secondary bike. I have a 17’ Road Glide Special also. I bought this to keep from putting so many miles on my Harley commuting.
 

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Forgot to mention that I’m also going to check the float this week too. Fuel gauge doesn’t work. Gonna check the wiring first and change it if that doesn’t fix it.
 

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Welcome. Nice looking bike and with all the cases included.Good luck with valve check/adjustment. That's the one maintenance item you listed that I haven't done yet.
 

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Forgot to mention that I’m also going to check the float this week too. Fuel gauge doesn’t work. Gonna check the wiring first and change it if that doesn’t fix it.
The most common cause is fuel sender wires cut at the sender because of people putting the tank on the floor during service. There are multiple threads about that.
So first check that point. You can even measure the sender resistance w/o taking the tank off. The little 2 pins connector can be accessed and unplugged from underneath the tank.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Please learn how to use the unfriendly 'Search' function - there is a huge amount of information on the bikes in this forum.

Unless you know it had been done already, you'll want to service the rear hub - it's a 12K service, and it is CRITICAL. Several threads on the topic in this forum - only 'special tool' required is a big set of snap ring pliers. You'll want to buy a pair of seals. They are not commonly available.

I'd hold off on the fork service/oil change. Get used to the bike first. Going to a heavier oil may make the front too harsh. Not knowing your weight, note the ST's are not sprung for riders over 185lbs. If you're heavier than that - especially if you ride with the bags - you'll be wanting to upgrade the rear spring. And shock, while you're at it. Contact TMod on this forum - he is a suspension wizard, and will rebuild the shock unit far cheaper than a new one will cost.

Use only two fingers on the front brake - coming off a Harley, you'll soon find out a 'Harley Grip' will crush your jewels against the tank, or worse, throw you out of control.

Tank off. Drain the tank as much as possible. If you can, put non-ethanol in the tank for a few days before you start work on it. The alcohol tends to swell the tank, and it can be a b*tch to get the front bolt re-engaged.

Plan on replacing the IACV hoses while you have the tank off. Use 6MM/1/4" vacuum hose - and long enough to avoid kinking. There are four hoses - one is the atmospheric signal to the ECM. The originals are corrugated vinyl, with rubber ends. The ends rot and crack.

The fuel QD fittings should be metal. If you have less than four metal ones, get the stainless Colder bits. The nylon pieces will break, especially the one in the fuel pump plate.

Lastly, there are two nipples under the right edge of the tank. One is the 'tipover' valve, the other is the fill neck drain. It tends to clog with mineral deposits. Use a small drill bit, and using your fingers, spin it up into the nipple to clear the chalk out of it.

Note: there is an electrical crimp connection in the left side handlebar harness. It is an aluminum crimp on copper wires. If you get a no-start condition (everything works, except the starter), try the horn button. If it doesn't work, that crimp connection has failed. It is a very common problem.

HTH!

pr
 

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Forgot to mention that I’m also going to check the float this week too. Fuel gauge doesn’t work. Gonna check the wiring first and change it if that doesn’t fix it.
Could it be that the battery was disconnected? If so, just go and ride the bike for a couple of kms and the fuel gauge will 'revive' automatically.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unfortunately the fuel gauge isn’t from the battery being disconnected. I’ve put about 400 miles on it so far and haven’t seen it work yet.
 

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Pushr0d, thank you. That is a lot of good information. I’ve put about 400 miles on it so far and am really enjoying it.
 

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Could it be that the battery was disconnected? If so, just go and ride the bike for a couple of kms and the fuel gauge will 'revive' automatically.
You are describing a typical 1050 fuel gauge behavior. Here we're speaking about a 955.
 

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Welcome. Nice looking bike and with all the cases included.Good luck with valve check/adjustment. That's the one maintenance item you listed that I haven't done yet.
I did the valve adjustment on my 01 Sprint ST. There is a tool for it that helps. Try to find one used. I sold mine.

It's a bit tricky to use the tool but you can avoid camshaft removal.

Biggest problem I faced was getting the gas tank back on. The plastic tank swells because of ethanol in the gas.

It appears a lot of motorcycle owners nowadays don't do valve checks or adjust shimmed valves. Expensive to have done professionally. Shims can be hard to find. My local shops don't stock them. Had to order.
 

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I did the valve adjustment on my 01 Sprint ST. There is a tool for it that helps. Try to find one used. I sold mine.

It's a bit tricky to use the tool but you can avoid camshaft removal.

Biggest problem I faced was getting the gas tank back on. The plastic tank swells because of ethanol in the gas.

It appears a lot of motorcycle owners nowadays don't do valve checks or adjust shimmed valves. Expensive to have done professionally. Shims can be hard to find. My local shops don't stock them. Had to order.
Great thanks for the tool tips,definitely not interested in having the dealer do it for big $$$. I have taken my tank off a few times now and have figured out how to gently pry it back into place so I Can get the bolt inserted.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for the advice. Since I got it I have put about 600-700 miles on it so far. I’ve found that the hard starting when cold is pretty much gone. Not sure if it just had some bad gas or what, but every morning it fires right up now. Still a little cold natured, but seems to run great. I’m not intimidated by the valve check/adjustment. I’ve had several inline 4’s including a FJR and a C14 that I have done valve adjustments on. Plus I’m a mechanic by trade, so I’ve done my share of wrenching. Definitely good to know about the tanks swelling when removed. I would have never thought about that. Tons to learn about this engine though.
 

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Strip and lube the rear shock linkage. You'll probably want a slide hammer with a 14 x 1.25 thread. I ended up getting a BMW Lug Nut off of eBay and had it welded to an adaptor so I could bop that one sleeve out.
 
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