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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I recently picked up a Sprint that I've been doing a little bit of work on. The fairings were rather destroyed and given the price of new ones I decided to go for a naked bike look. I've pretty much got it all figured out except for one thing, and that's the instrument cluster. I've found almost no good way to mount the factory cluster that will actually look half way decent. I would just ride without it hooked up at all given that an rpm gauge isn't terribly important to me, and I can used my phone for a speedometer, but without the cluster plugged in the turn signals on the motorcycle won't work. My main question comes down to one of two things. Does anyone know of any cheaper aftermarket clusters that have simple mounting methods and will work with the bike, or is there any way to make the turn signals work without the cluster plugged up?
 

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………is there any way to make the turn signals work without the cluster plugged up?
Turn signals should work without the instrument cluster connected. Obviously, you won’t have the little left/right dash signal but, looking at the wiring diagram, I don’t see why they wouldn’t work without the cluster. If they don’t then maybe you have a wiring issue somewhere else.

Does anyone know of any cheaper aftermarket clusters that have simple mounting methods and will work with the bike
The 1050 instruments use CAN bus communications. That means instead of individual signals for speed, rpm, fuel, temp, trip computer, etc, the signals come from the ECU via just two wires (red & blue). I can’t say for sure, but don’t think you can get aftermarket instruments that will work with the Sprint system. Maybe a set of instruments from a Speed Triple with the same Keihin ECU will work.

If you still have a working original Sprint instrument cluster then maybe the answer is to find a suitable flyscreen to cover them. It’ll solve your instrument problem and improve the look of the bike. Definitely better than a sketchy phone-for-speedo solution.
 

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Hi,
I'm just thinking online (which is always dangerous), but think this could look pretty good if properly executed.

I think you could use an older tablet/phone, weatherproof case and an OBDII bluetooth/wifi connector as a replacement cluster. You could load/run a "Torque style" app, create a display you like and buy/build a mount for it. You could probably even have Tune ECU loaded if you went Android, which would allow you to reset any CEL's that popped up.

You would probably want to hard wire the charging circuit, which would mean that battery condition for the tablet/phone wouldn't be very important. I'm not sure if anyone has tried this, but I can't see why it wouldn't work?
Good luck, BB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah, yeah. Went out and was fiddling around today, seems like the turn signals do work. I know my switch on the bars can be a little finicky so maybe it was just acting up when I tried it last time. Using a tablet or old phone isn't too terrible of an idea, I might try to look into that. I do have the factory cluster still but after looking at different ways I could mount it I'm pretty empty on ideas. Maybe I'll be able to figure something out though, wasn't really planning on running a windscreen because I'm really not sure what I could use that would mount up and look decent. Thanks for the input though, it threw a couple more ideas into my head. I'd love to just return the bike to a full fairing, but the price is just waaaaay too much for my blood.
 

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The OEM gauges will mount up, using part T2070302, which you may actually have in your pile of parts. However, it may look like hell w/o the cockpit. What about some sort of bikini fairing to cover the ugliness? I really like the factory gauge cluster on the 1050s, especially the multi-function computer. I miss it on my 955i Sprints.

Bonus on using this part is it has hard bosses for mounting mirrors to it.
 

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Hi all.

For a reason that I'll list when this mod is done has anyone have an idea if 2011 daytona 675 gauges will match up to a 2005 sprint st? The plug is that same (not that this means anything) and I've had no luck sourcing a pic of the 675 wiring diagram for that exact year (2011) so that I can try and match connectors to the gauges.

Obviously the fuel gauge won't work as the daytona in that year didn't have one, other than that I'm going to risk it. Just that the bike is in pieces at the moment and I can't check this. Hoping I get lucky and someone has done this or has a better idea than me.

Cheers from OZ
 

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Looking at the two schematics, the pin numbering is (almost exactly) reversed for each row i.e. 1 is 8, 9 is 16 and vice versa
Now - what is bizarre is that the schematics show similar reverse pin numbering convention on the earlier 955 Sprints vs 955 Speed Triple/Daytona - but I know for fact that the actual wiring is 100% compatible.
So I think the Sprint Electrical Designer simply has the pin convention for the connector starting with the wrong end (but it actually ends up correct even though he called the pin numbers out incorrectly)
Just be careful - I know 100% this to be the case with the 955 gauges and I am just assuming the same error made with the 1050 schematic - but it is awfully coincidental that the pin numbering is EXACTLY reversed.
There are other differences which may - or not - affect how it works:
On the later Speedo, the ECU does a 'hand-shake' - this is initiated by the ECU so may not be a problem;
the 675 gauge has the starter signal input on pin 10 - which would be 15 on the Sprint schematic) - and this input is unused on the Sprint
Similarly 13 & 14 on Sprint are tied to ground - this would be 11 & 12 on the Daytona convention and these are shown as being used.

The main problem might be in how the Daytona gauge decodes the CANBUS data stream which is going to have different data than the Sprint
 

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Looking at the two schematics, the pin numbering is (almost exactly) reversed for each row i.e. 1 is 8, 9 is 16 and vice versa
Now - what is bizarre is that the schematics show similar reverse pin numbering convention on the earlier 955 Sprints vs 955 Speed Triple/Daytona - but I know for fact that the actual wiring is 100% compatible.
So I think the Sprint Electrical Designer simply has the pin convention for the connector starting with the wrong end (but it actually ends up correct even though he called the pin numbers out incorrectly)
Just be careful - I know 100% this to be the case with the 955 gauges and I am just assuming the same error made with the 1050 schematic - but it is awfully coincidental that the pin numbering is EXACTLY reversed.
There are other differences which may - or not - affect how it works:
On the later Speedo, the ECU does a 'hand-shake' - this is initiated by the ECU so may not be a problem;
the 675 gauge has the starter signal input on pin 10 - which would be 15 on the Sprint schematic) - and this input is unused on the Sprint
Similarly 13 & 14 on Sprint are tied to ground - this would be 11 & 12 on the Daytona convention and these are shown as being used.

The main problem might be in how the Daytona gauge decodes the CANBUS data stream which is going to have different data than the Sprint
This is awesome info, cheers! Looks like it'll be suck and see.

Anyone got a direction to find just the 2011 daytona wiring diagram?

I've got the Haynes manual for the sprint with the wiring diagram so I'd like to check if I run into a issue which may can the whole thing either way. My understanding, which may be wrong, is that the ECU on later models is matched to the gauges. However later gauges can be used on earlier models I think as the ECU locks this out.
 

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I would bet the ecu is identifying/checking the cluster type via can...
There is no check on that generation Sprint ECU - you can start/run the bike with no cluster connected at all .........

A Speed Triple cluster might have been a better starting point ......... but already committed at this point I think
 

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There is no check on that generation Sprint ECU - you can start/run the bike with no cluster connected at all .........

A Speed Triple cluster might have been a better starting point ......... but already committed at this point I think
Yep, committed. All the gauges I found were in the 500 plus dollar region. The one I got was in the 100 region, hence worth the risk
 

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I'm going down the same route myself, but it seems my '07 ST requires the handshake with the ECU. I'm wondering whether a Speed Triple or Daytona 675 dash would work. On another thread there was talk of a 120 ohm resister bridging the red and blue CANbus wires, but I'll need to read it again to see if that's a work-around in this case, or just a way to get the bike to start without a dash fitted.
 

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had a think about this a bit today -
I could do a CANbus to standard gauge converter -
really its just an arduino with a can bus controller interface - it would need to emulate the stock gauges and output pulse timings and analog values
for driving standard gauge clusters / aftermarket gauges.

This would allow for reuse of sprints / other 1050s that have met untimely ends due to front end mishaps - (not talking about units with rselectable ride control modes etc for the moment) to be cafe / streetfighter / chopper whatever converted.

question is - is it worthwhile ?

rayman
 

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had a think about this a bit today -
I could do a CANbus to standard gauge converter -
really its just an arduino with a can bus controller interface - it would need to emulate the stock gauges and output pulse timings and analog values
for driving standard gauge clusters / aftermarket gauges.

This would allow for reuse of sprints / other 1050s that have met untimely ends due to front end mishaps - (not talking about units with rselectable ride control modes etc for the moment) to be cafe / streetfighter / chopper whatever converted.

question is - is it worthwhile ?

rayman
If there was a plug and play to get over the ECU/instrument hand shake, I'd buy it. The Street Triple/D675 dash works, if I hot swap once running (as previous posters have noted). L&R indicators are reversed on the dash, but otherwise OK. Tacho, shift lights, gear position indicators - all seem good, except the bloody ECU won't fire up the fuel and starter without the original dash.:mad:
 

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had a think about this a bit today -
I could do a CANbus to standard gauge converter -
really its just an arduino with a can bus controller interface - it would need to emulate the stock gauges and output pulse timings and analog values
for driving standard gauge clusters / aftermarket gauges.

This would allow for reuse of sprints / other 1050s that have met untimely ends due to front end mishaps - (not talking about units with rselectable ride control modes etc for the moment) to be cafe / streetfighter / chopper whatever converted.

question is - is it worthwhile ?

rayman
Did you ever proceed with this project?
I'm currently fixing up a front end damaged tiger 1050 and would love to buy one of these if you made any.


Cheers,
NV
 

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Did you ever proceed with this project?
I'm currently fixing up a front end damaged tiger 1050 and would love to buy one of these if you made any.


Cheers,
NV
Others I'm sure will correct me, but my understanding after going down this route was that ECUs and Clusters were paired in batches at the factory, and the ECU needs a paired dash to start up (my terminology will not be correct). In the end, I bought a paired Speed Triple 1050 dash and ECU for my ST1050 project.
 

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Others I'm sure will correct me, but my understanding after going down this route was that ECUs and Clusters were paired in batches at the factory, and the ECU needs a paired dash to start up (my terminology will not be correct). In the end, I bought a paired Speed Triple 1050 dash and ECU for my ST1050 project.
Thanks for your response, Ive just been speaking with a mate who pulls data from race cars and he thinks he can make me a solution.
Will have to wait couple months until he is at my place. Will post if I'm successful


Cheers,
NV
 
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