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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
trackdayrider - when you added the front wheel from the speed triple, in this thread, what did you need by way of bearings/spacers etc.? I just got a set of these same 5-spoke speed triple wheels for my 2000 Daytona 955i but the front wheel is completely different (because of the speedo drive issue you and DEcosse mentioned). I think I can figure out how to convert the magnetic speedo drive to 'mechanical' as on my bike (or just find an electronic speedo from a newer bike?) but don't know about basic installation of the wheel...

I just want to be sure that I purchase the 'right' stuff and I'm not sure whether I can use my 'original' axle with the new spacers/bearings or if I have to buy a whole new set-up to install....am I correct in believing that the fork width at the axle is the same? Just checking since you've obviously just done the swap. Thanks in advance

Just adding in a hyperlink from BikeBandit showing the front wheel parts schematic

http://www.bikebandit.com/triumph-motorcycle-speed-triple-2007-front-wheel/o/m17656sch569345

Hoping you can verify what parts I should be purchasing...thanks again!
 

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... I think I can figure out how to convert the magnetic speedo drive to 'mechanical' as on my bike (or just find an electronic speedo from a newer bike?) but don't know about basic installation of the wheel...
.. I'm not sure whether I can use my 'original' axle with the new spacers/bearings ...
Thiis is completely different scenario as the forks change the playing field considerably
i.e. wheel and forks were all one matching assembly by trackdayrider, so no spacer considerations were necessary
Only speedo had to accommodated on trackdayrider's set-up.

....For the speedo fix have alook at
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...ix-also-mod-for-05-wheels-on-early-model.html

Its a fairly straight forward mod. I am stillusing the 955i clocks and it works fine.

trackdayrider - Fixed_Ops has a mechancial drive speedo on his older model.

Fixed_Ops - there is no magnetic drive on the 5 spoke wheel - it is from the output drive. There is no provision in the 1050 wheel to drive a speedo, whether magnetic or mechanical. The earlier wheel with the speedo drive on the axle, has the bearing inset on that side to make the space required for the drive - you need 35mm for a speedo drive and bearing is offset by 8mm on right side of your early model wheel (1050 wheel is symmetrical as far as bearings go)
There is no way that you can mount a mechanical (or Hall Effect!) speedo drive in that late model wheel.

I believe (not yet validated) that one consideration that might be possible, is to replace the mechanical speedo with one from a Sprint ST, then drive it using the method shown in the sticky thread that trackdayrider linked in post above.



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For the spacers, you would use the same axle, but need custom spacers - I can work those out for you & will post later.

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....For the spacers, you would use the same axle, but need custom spacers - I can work those out for you & will post later.
OK - here's the deal

Your 2000 Daytona has 102mm between bearings; the right bearing is inset by 8mm wrt the wheel center-line however, to accomodate the speedo drive;
the speedo-drive on the right side, is 35mm and also is what fixes the wheel center wrt the right fork. Everything tightens up against the right fork leg.
(the spacer on the left in concert with the axle is somewhat irrelevant dimensionally - if the spacer on that side was +/- a few mm it would not have any consequence on the wheel center, only move the axle in or out of the left fork leg)

The 1050 wheel has bearing to bearing length of 108mm.

Adding in the 8mm (speedo) inset to the early wheel, would give 110mm.

So that is 2 mm wider, effectively 1mm wider one each side of the wheel

To center wheel off the right fork leg, that means you would need to replace the speedo drive with a fixed spacer:
length of that spacer would 35mm (original speedo drive) - 8mm (for the inset difference) - 1mm = 26mm.

Ideally, you would shave 1mm off the left side spacer, but as explained above, that side is non-critical and can be left as-is (the axle will simply protrude 1mm further out of the left leg - no big deal!).

Actual new right side fixed spacer would be 25mm ID 35mm OD and 26mm long. The 35mm OD will fit perfectly in the grease seal on the right side of new wheel.

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A fixed spacer will of course leave you with no speedo but I think you can see how there would be no possible way to fit a 35mm speedo drive in there.
You need to come up with a conversion to an electronic gauge.

Here's another method that I employed originally to replace that mechanical gauge - I think the Sprint gauge can be made to work however and cheaper and a lot less involved!



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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DEcosse - thanks a ton for all the helpful information regarding wheel spacing and possible speedo set-ups. I've just purchased a set of 1050 wheel spacers/bearings on Ebay and I'll mock the wheel up when they arrive then do measurements in accordance with the dimensions you posted. Hopefully I'll be pretty close on spacing with just minor cuts/modifications.

I'm looking for a Sprint electronic speedo/drive now on Ebay but if anybody has one for sale, lemme know and I'll happily purchase. Thanks again all for your ongoing support.

matt
 

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...I'm looking for a Sprint electronic speedo/drive now on Ebay but if anybody has one for sale, lemme know and I'll happily purchase. ...
Matt - the electronic speedo drive won't fit any better than your mechanical drive - it is actually identical form and fit dimensionally to your mechanical drive - that is why trackdayrider went to the other method I recommended.
 

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DEcosse is 100% correct as always.

The Sprint electronic front wheel speed sensor is exactly the same size as the mechanical one you have on your bike presently. I did that conversion when I went to a 02+ Daytona motor.

I will do the method in the sticky if I ever change wheels.

Good luck!
 
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