Hi Daniel,
if you have spark you have spark. It might be assumed timing was set.
Nope.
Make sure battery is a good battery & fully charged.
To be clearer, 'good' well-calibrated Volt- or multi-meter connected across the battery:-
. should display 12.6V when everything is switched off;
. should not display less than 12.5V when just the ignition is switched on.
Be aware, when you find the electronics "Box", it's probably a Boyer-Bransden (but Pazon or Wassell are essentially clones). If labelled for a British twin, they all have a
pita 'feature' that powers-down the ignition coils if the Box doesn't 'detect engine movement' (varying signals from the trigger unit because kicking over the engine turns the magnets mounted on the end of the exhaust camshaft) within a few seconds of being powered-up. As I say, absolute pita when trouble-shooting; while you have a meter connected across the battery, the power-down should manifest itself at the meter display returning to the 'switched off' Volts.
Turning to your photo. in your post #33:-
The Black/White and Black/Yellow wires on the plate are different colours for a reason. When you find the electronics Box, two of the wires out of it will be the same Black/White and Black/Yellow.
It is not a good idea to use different colours - and especially both wires the same colour 😖 - to connect the plate and the Box together. Reason is, if you accidentally connect the Black/White plate wire to the Black/Yellow Box wire and
vice versa, the timing will be wildly-out - while you might see a spark, the engine won't start ... now, where have I read that before ...?
I loathe those red- (and blue- and yellow-) insulated squash-on terminals, not for nothing are they known as "Bodger's Terminals"; ime - from fixing other people's EI at the sides of roads, in campsites, etc. - they don't have any place in an EI, the signals from trigger (plate) to electronics Box are low Volts and Amps, the carriers (wires and connectors) need to be as good as reasonably practicable.
Second alarm bell is the insulating tape. That needs to come off to see what it's hiding ...
Imho, talk to
Vehicle Wiring Products:-
. You need two metres each of
32/0.20 wire in Black/White and Black/Yellow and some
black PVC sleeving of the right ID to take those two wires - VWP will advise.
. Specifically for the wires between any EI trigger and electronics Box, I use
"Japanese bullets" (and sockets) because the bullet and socket insulation also interlock, forming a near-waterproof connection.
Bullets, sockets and corresponding insulators all come in packs of 10, you only need four of each to join the new wires to the plate and the Box so there's a few for balls-ups.
. If you don't have one already,
this terminal crimping tool is cheaper than
this one, your choice, the tool will be useful for many more wiring jobs.
Once you have the above, replace the existing wires between the plate and the Box with the correct colours, so you can be sure plate and Box are connected correctly.
Look up manufacturers web site. You should see the control box somewhere. It will show how to set static timing
Ime, none of the
Boxes "show how to set static timing", you need the destructions. Thankfully, they're all online - educated guess says you'll find a Boyer-Bransden Box -
Ernie makes all his Fitting Instructions available on his website, post the colour of the Box when you find it, the Box colour denotes the electronics inside; otoh, also post if you find either a Pazon or Wassell Box and I'll post a link to the relevant destructions.
Hth.
Regards,