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Ok after buying all the connectors mentioned in this post :rolleyes: I decided to solder the wires, not sure I did an amazing job but I'm still seeing a leak when plugging the multimeter on the negative battery side 1.5mA.
Can it be my rectifier?
No leak when I remove the 30A fuse
 

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View attachment 716863

View attachment 716864 Ok after buying all the connectors mentioned in this post :rolleyes: I decided to solder the wires, not sure I did an amazing job but I'm still seeing a leak when plugging the multimeter on the negative battery side 1.5mA.
Can it be my rectifier?
No leak when I remove the 30A fuse
Is that clear stuff you used heat shrink? never seen it clear before. I'm no expert on electrics but what I would do first is to follow all the wiring through the bike removing the tank, seat, headlamp and all to check that there's no broken wiring, corroded connections or loose connections. I know it's a pain in the arse, I've had to do it myself. Then if you're happy with all the wiring the next step would possibly be to get hold of an original Triumph regulator/rectifier that hasn't been hacked about.

Did this problem arise after you changed the headlamp? and does the rectifier really need to be relocated. Also I can't remember, did you say that your bikes still got the alarm fitted?

Oh and did you have to cut any other wiring when fitting the headlamp?
 

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I’ve had a similar issue recently with my 09 Scram EFI. Brief history. Had swapped out OEM Yuasa battsry a couple years ago for Shorai Lithium. Shorai worked fine till i accidentally left ignition on overnight last month. Shorai was completely drained & would not recharge. Settled for less expensive sealed battery from Battery Plus. It worked ok for a couple weeks. Then on 2 occasions with battery fully chargedon battery tender, i rode about 10 miles from home, stopped for a while and bke would not re-start. At first, the bike and battery cranked a bit but after a couple of weak tries i only got a click. Was at my sons house so i pulled the battery & charged it over night. Started ok the next day & rode it home. Put it in the garage. Tried starting the next day and similar to the day before, just a click. Pulled seat & battery, checked battery connections & all were tight. Checked resting battery chRge and it was down in the 12v range. Put it on charger again overnight, tried starting the next day but just the click even though battery showed 13.2 volts. Gave up & had it tower to independent MC garage that has done good work for me on other bikes. Talked with owner/mechanic today who previously worked in local Triumph shop. He said they checked over electrics, battery was taking charge and they could find no faults. He did say in his experience Triumphs could b3 very finicky about non-OEM batteries and recommended replacing the current battery with OEM Yuasa specified for my Scram. I have not previously gone through the various checks described in this thread (several years ago i did replace the OEM R &R with a Rick’s MOSFET). I will try the return to Yuasa OEM and see how it goes (although i never had any trouble with the Shorai until i accidentally drained it). Any further thiughts?
 

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1.5 mA is a very small current draw, I suspect you are chasing a ghost. Most Ecu,s draw 5 to 10 mA in standby mode. Try this idea. set your multi meter to amps, disconnect battery neg terminal and place the meter in series with the - lead and the terminal. make sure the ignition key is out. anything over 100mA or 0.1 amp is considered a power leakage. for example 100mA draw on a 25AH bike battery will take 250 hours or about 11 days to drop voltage to 12.0 from 12.6v
 

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View attachment 716863

View attachment 716864 Ok after buying all the connectors mentioned in this post :rolleyes: I decided to solder the wires, not sure I did an amazing job but I'm still seeing a leak when plugging the multimeter on the negative battery side 1.5mA.
Can it be my rectifier?
No leak when I remove the 30A fuse
[/QUOTE]

I agree with @tw586. The small ma draw is most likely the R/R and normal. I have a Shindengen R/R wired direct to the battery, through a inline fuse, bypassing the bike wiring on both of my bikes. It has a 1ma draw. The longest either bike has sat was 17 days when I was out of town last year. They both started when I got back home. I don't use or own a battery tender.
 

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Ok after buying all the connectors mentioned in this post :rolleyes: I decided to solder the wires
Are they soldered at both ends? What sort of connection do they have in the headlamp?

I'm still seeing a leak when plugging the multimeter on the negative battery side 1.5mA.
Can it be my rectifier?
Easy way to tell - leave the fuse alone and disconnect the rectifier. If the leakage stops, then the rectifier is damaged.

@cheerfulljerry raises a good point about the alarm. If you have an alarm fitted, it has to draw a small standby current, although it would usually be a bit more than 1.5mA.
 

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1.5 mA is a very small current draw, I suspect you are chasing a ghost. Most Ecu,s draw 5 to 10 mA in standby mode. Try this idea. set your multi meter to amps, disconnect battery neg terminal and place the meter in series with the - lead and the terminal. make sure the ignition key is out. anything over 100mA or 0.1 amp is considered a power leakage. for example 100mA draw on a 25AH bike battery will take 250 hours or about 11 days to drop voltage to 12.0 from 12.6v
I have an Electrex RR155 reg/rec and the leakage is zero. The ECU on canbus models may show leakage if there are any memory functions which require power, such as a time clock but my pre-canbus ECU has none of that stuff. The keyless ignition draws about 4mA and drops battery voltage from 12.8v to 11v in about 6 days, so the bike is plugged into an automatic tender whenever its not being ridden. I think Triumph cut it close with the batteries on these bikes, being only 10Ah and it only takes a few tenths of a volt in battery drop to produce a no start situation.
 

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I would be tempted to wrap up your new repair in some insulating tape, give the battery a good charge then just start riding the bike to see what happens. Ride the bike regularly though, battery's don't like being sat for long periods of time, ideally they need to be kept topped up.
 
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