Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've had issue for years, and I'm starting to give up. I have to pray every time I try to start my bonneville t100 EFI 2007.
What I've done so far:
- replaced the battery 10 times
- replaced the rectifier with a MOSFET one (maybe its not working correctly?)
- added Forchetto 's button on the relay
- plugged something on my beam light that cuts it before starting, to save some battery
- I don't have any extra plugged on my bike.

So I can start with a fully charged battery, but the day after, I will struggle to start, and eventually, not be able to start at all, just a click. It's definitely the battery that is not charged enough to start the bike, but why does it keep draining? Is my rectifier not charging the bike correctly?
And even the button on the relay does not work when the battery is too low, is it normal?

Thanks for your help..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Not normal, First check would be to insert ammeter (DVM) to see how much current is being drained when ignition is off. Then trace through fuse box.
Culprits are often accessories. But could be ECU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
When you say that it won't start the day after, is that after you've been out riding? Or is that after you've put a freshly-charged battery in and let it sit for a couple of days?

It sounds like either (1) voltage is leaking somewhere when the bike is off, or (2) you have a problem with the charging system.

If the amperage (leak) test hutchia describes doesn't show leak (and remember that your meter should always be connected in series to test amps), then try using the DC voltage function across the battery when the bike is running. It should be 13.5 to 15--anything less and your battery isn't charging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,248 Posts
Look at the two charging system connectors: One in the headlight bucket and the other on top of the airbox, which is difficult to access. They are known to literally burn up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,081 Posts
Have you ever tested your output from the stator? from the RR? . You can isolate the battery by putting an inline switch on the + side. A toggle will go. as mentioned before it will tell you if you have or have not a grounding or drain once the ignition is off/key out, toggle off.. The you need to trace it, that is the fun part. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
543 Posts
+1 of vitesse check your a.c. voltage from stator this can be done at the connector in headlight, you may need another pair of hands to rev bike volts should go up as rev, if I remember correctly
If okay check dc voltage output of rectifier, if okay as forchetto says have you a drain, meter shows drain, pulling one fuse at a time or un plugging connectors to various equipment may help narrow down the circuit causing issue, do you have an alarm on bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I would start with the easy checks. This is what I would do before I started to tear everything apart:

1. Disconnect battery and charge. Once charged let it sit off the charger for a few hours to stabilize.
2. Measure battery voltage off the bike.
3. Connect battery (bike off) and measure voltage.
4. Start bike and measure voltage at idle.
5. Rev to about 3000 RPM and measure voltage.

Voltage in step 2 should be 12.5 to 13.0, in that ballpark.
Voltage in step 3 should be identical. if voltage is lower than 2, something is draining the battery.
Voltage in step 4 should be at a minimum around step 2 (just charging enough to keep up with accessories).
Voltage in step 5 should definitely be above step 2 (13.5 to 14.5 volts), normal charging.

If volts in step 3 is significantly below volts in step 2, you have a current drain somewhere.
If volts in step 5 is not measurably above volts in step 2, you are not charging.

If everything is ok and you still have problems, you probably have a bad battery. But averaging a battery/year is pretty excessive. My worst battery lasted 2 years, my best 7.

Good luck,
Steve.

P.S. Where are you getting your batteries? Some dealers are not diligent about properly filling and charging a new battery. This can cripple them before they get to your bike.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,738 Posts
P.S. Where are you getting your batteries? Some dealers are not diligent about properly filling and charging a new battery. This can cripple them before they get to your bike.

Indeed. Correct new battery commissioning is very important. Triumph publishes this procedure on all their technician training manuals for use by their dealers service departments:


Battery Commissioning Procedure

This procedure is designed to ensure that the battery is at its best when fitted to the motorcycle, and provide the best possible performance and reliability.

Failure to comply with this procedure may lead to reduced battery performance and/or shorten the life of the battery.

Warning! The electrolyte solution is SULPHURIC ACID. Ensure that you read all the warnings supplied with the battery and are familiar with the necessary safety precautions and remedial actions should spillage or contamination occur.

1. Read the instructions and warnings delivered with the battery!

2. Place the battery on a flat level surface and remove the sealing foil.

3. Remove the battery sealing strip from the electrolyte container (if applicable) and save for use later in this procedure. Do not break the seal on the electrolyte container.

4. Place the electrolyte container and adapter (if applicable) on the battery and fill the battery according to the manufacturers instructions.

5. After starting to fill the battery with electrolyte, allow the battery to stand for 30 minutes with the filling container in place.

6. Check that all of the electrolyte has drained from the container, do not remove container at this point. If the container has not completely drained, tap the sides of the container to start the electrolyte flowing again.

7. After all of the electrolyte has drained into the battery, allow the battery to stand with the electrolyte container in place, for a further 30 minutes for batteries 3Ah – 12Ah or 1 hour for batteries greater than 12Ah.

8. Remove the electrolyte container and adapter carefully, and dispose of immediately.

9. Fit the sealing caps to the battery according to the manufacturers instructions.

10. Measure the terminal voltage on the battery to assess the battery condition and charge the battery as necessary (see table of charging time) using a suitable charger (i.e. a charger with a suitably controlled charging current and appropriate cut off voltage.)

Charging current should be controlled to 10% of the nominal capacity (i.e. for a 10AH battery charging current I = 0.1 x 10 = 1Amp)

Table of charging time

Terminal Voltage....Charge Time......Cutoff Voltage

>12.8V............... 2 hour............ 14.5V
>12.7V............... 3 hours........... 14.5V
>12.6V............... 4 hours........... 14.5V
>12.5V............... 6 hours........... 14.5V
<12.5V............... 8-10 hours........ 14.5V


11. Disconnect the charger and allow the battery to stand for 1 hour before fitting
to the motorcycle.

12. Fit the battery to the motorcycle, positive (Red) lead first.

End of Procedure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all your answers.

I bought all my batteries online, respecting the procedure to fill them in.
Model Yuasa-YTX12-BS.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Yuasa-YTX12-BS-High-Power-AGM-GEL-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Battery-YTX12BS/273270877441

I charged my most recent one for 24 h.
After unplugging the charger: 13.34V
8 h after: 12.87V

Here are the different voltages I read on my voltmeter:
- Off the bike: 12.87V
- Connected: 12.87V
- Turn the key: 12.55V
- Idle: starts at 13.60 and moves rapidly to 14.10V
- 3000 rpm: 14.20V
- 15 min after stopping the bike: 12.84V

Is the photo attached the cable that comes from the stator? It's not burnt inside.

- No parasite current when I plug the Ammeter.

- I don't have any alarm or anything extra that could drain the battery.

From what I understand, my battery seems to be charging, so it's not a problem of stator/rectifier ?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Thanks for all your answers.

I bought all my batteries online, respecting the procedure to fill them in.
Model Yuasa-YTX12-BS.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Yuasa-YTX12-BS-High-Power-AGM-GEL-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Battery-YTX12BS/273270877441

I charged my most recent one for 24 h.
After unplugging the charger: 13.34V
8 h after: 12.87V

Here are the different voltages I read on my voltmeter:
- Off the bike: 12.87V
- Connected: 12.87V
- Turn the key: 12.55V
- Idle: starts at 13.60 and moves rapidly to 14.10V
- 3000 rpm: 14.20V
- 15 min after stopping the bike: 12.84V

.....
Very interesting, this is exactly what I would expect from a properly functioning electrical system. Normally at this point I'd be getting a new battery. How old is this battery?

I have the same battery on my Zr-7s, the first one lasted 7 years, the second on 4 years, The battery in my scrambler 2 years. Both electrical systems tested and yielding the same performance as yours.

Since all the batteries I have bought (all Yuasa) have been from the same dealer, I thought I'd try a factory charged battery. I replaced the scrambler battery with a Deka battery. We'll see how long it lasts.

I'm sorry I don't have a better suggestion, everything looks perfect.

Cheers,
Steve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Check that the cable connections at the battery, both sides of the solenoid and starter are clean and tight.
The cable connections at the battery and solenoid are tight, starter you mean the starter relay ? If yes, it's clean as well.


My last battery is 6 month, and because of all the acid attacks in London, this one came already filled. I might try to buy one in a Triumph dealer I guess...

Thanks for your help
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,738 Posts
Is the photo attached the cable that comes from the stator? It's not burnt inside.
No. That looks like the connector for one of the sensors. Follow the larger of the two cable looms that exit the alternator casing until you find it.

The alternator stator connector is like this, burned examples:




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
730 Posts
To the O P.

This has been going on for some time and throwing new batteries is not fixing it, not to mention expensive.

I suspect fixing this problem will be a little like climbing a ladder. You do one step at a time.

Follow the steps and then deal with the next one. Eventually the fault will be found.

Dont be tempted to go charging off in all manners of if directions like a mad woman's ****e as you will miss some steps and probably your bike will remain unreliable.

It appears you have been doing this for over a year so far ......... and it remains unreliable....

Follow the yellow brick road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Anybody knows what is the parasitic draw should be on 2007 speed triple, what is the accepted amperage draw?
I'm giving up

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,315 Posts
.


Dont be tempted to go charging off in all manners of if directions like a mad woman's ****e
Not sure what. "****e" is...I'D like to buy another vowel please Vanna ;-)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,315 Posts
I think we need more detail by what OP states as "doesn't start".
Does it fail to go through power on process, with clocks cycling, fuel pump pressurizing? Does the starter solenoid just single click when pressing start button? Multiple clicks but not turning over engine? Turns over rapidly or slowly?

Could be a bad starter relay, bad solenoid, bad starter motor. By bad, it could be the contacts of any of these components need cleaning/tightening. Or component may need replacing.
Only testing each will reveal what needs to happen.
 
1 - 20 of 88 Posts
Top