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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed a few other people had issues with the power to their blinkers/brake lights/horn failing due to the wire wearing/breaking across the ridge on the frame.

I just had the same issue and welded the two wires together (well bridged them with another piece, welded in), but I think the problem will probably reoccur since I now have a solid inflexible join in the wire in that same region (under the plate that holds all those wires in place).

I was hoping the wires from the ignition through to the loom came as a separate piece (plugging each end into the ignition and the loom) but it seems the ignition and the wiring that connect it to the loom is all a single item?

I could disconnect the ignition from the bike, take the rubber sheath off, replace the entire wire, and then get a new sheath (somewhere?) before reconnecting the plug that connects into the loom, or my only other options seems to be ordering a new ignition (about $150 plus shipping).

Has anyone else done anything similar? Any other simpler way? Should I just hope the weld holds?
 

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First remove the clamp on the steering neck.
You don't need it and it makes the problem worse. Your repair should be fine as it is right there after you get rid of that clamp.

If you really want to re-do the wiring tip to tail , there are stereo shops or electrical supply stores that can sell the wire conduit you need to make it look nice.
You will have to remove your top clamp to do this properly though , and it is a PITA to get it off.
 

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... I was hoping the wires from the ignition through to the loom came as a separate piece (plugging each end into the ignition and the loom) but it seems the ignition and the wiring that connect it to the loom is all a single item?...
That description sounds a little confusing - and I'm not sure if you are describing as actually is, correctly or incorrectly!

The KeySwitch harness that you have repaired - is fixed to the key-switch wiper plate at the switch end; at the opposite end, it has a connector interface to the main harness.

As DG suggests, remove the clamp and assuming your repair was well executed it should be fine. I guess 'welding' is an Aussie term for soldering :p

But if you want to replace the wire completely, you will need to access the switch plate, unsolder the wire, then re-solder new wire and install a new terminal on the opposite end to fit into the connector plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry my description is probably a little dodgy I'm not technically knowledgeable so I don't know the proper names for half the stuff, but can normally figure out how things work so I can fix them!

Your more technical descriptions indicate what I thought - it is more trouble than it is worth to try and replace the issue totally. However I will remove the clamp and see how I go!
Without it there creating a friction point between what moves and what is held static by the plate hopefully I won't have any more issues!
The soldering* was less dainty than I would have liked so while I think it is pretty solid I can see how it would cause wear faster than would be seen on a more flexible piece of wire!
 
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