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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 speed triple and I just noticed that my ignition switch is broken ( I bought the bike used in October of last year )

When I looked at it, one of the rib bit that holds it together is missing (I think this switch was tamper with) the funny thing is that the seat and gas tank lid don't show any sign of tampering not even a scratch.

I didn't want to take any chances so I ordered a lock set for my bike from my dealer. Everything looks easy to replace except the ignition switch.

Can I get some pointers on what to expect on replacing the ignition switch??? Is there a special tool need it? What needs to be removed??? Thanks for your time
 

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Hey, I think there is some security screws in their you will have to drill out.
Give it a go and post some pictures and the guys here will give you some pointers.

If you are a bike thief posing on the forum for tips then:

Do not attempt to remove barrel, sophisticated triumph security system will initiate and electrocute you with 11,000V theft protection device!
 

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I recently did this as I was replacing a possibly tweaked top triple clamp. Sorry no pics.

Yes, the screws are anti-tamper proof and the heads need to be drilled out. Obviously you'll have to disconnect the switch wiring connector and remove the triple from the bike to get at the screws. I used a drill press so I also needed to remove the handlebar mounts. I think it would be extremely difficult to use a hand drill.

EDIT: opps, forgot. The steering stem nut requires a special tool according to the manual. What it really does is protect the top triple surface from being marred. You can used a conventional socket but it can/will scratch the surface. I would mask the surface off with tape and be extra careful but that's still no guarantee.
 

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If the switch has been messed with, it's possible someone's already replaced the security screws with conventional screws. That was the case with my '08. Former owner apparently pulled the switch to diagnose intermittent electrical fault.
 

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If the switch has been messed with, it's possible someone's already replaced the security screws with conventional screws. That was the case with my '08. Former owner apparently pulled the switch to diagnose intermittent electrical fault.
If this ends up being the case, you'll be in luck especially if you can see/reach the standard screw heads without removing the top triple.
 

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And of course you can either order replacement 'shear' bolts from the dealer, or replace with std. M6 socket cap or Torx head bolts.
The OEM bolts start with conventional head, but these shear off when a certain torque is reached, leaving what you will find currently (assuming they have not been already replaced)
One instant 'vice' - flip the triple clamp upside down and refit over the fork legs. This will give you stable platform to work on removing the shear bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies....

I did notice that the security screws are still in place, only the switch looks like it was mess with. The security screws look to have a very small head, (how do I post pictures here, so I can show you guys?).

I was hoping that it was going to be a little easier to replace, but it looks like a small paint in the butt. My lock set has not arrive yet, so I have time to keep working on it. I'll post pictures as soon as I learn how to post them here.

And... yes, I am the owner of the bike, I bought it used in october of last year. Is just one of the problems you get when you buy used bikes. But, I really like my used Speed Triple and I'm planning on keeping it for a while, maybe until an update comes out. I mean an actual update not like the 2008 + update.
 

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If the bolt stubs refuse to move after you have the bolt heads off, there is probably pink threadlock in there too. This seems to vary from bike to bike, I guess depending if the guy on the assembly line remembered to put it on the bolts.

So you might also need to heat the bolts in order to undo them.

Sometimes they also move if you Dremel a slot on the bolt head & use heat and an impact driver. Sometimes not. Seems to be a luck of the draw how firmly the bolts are stuck.
 

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....The security screws look to have a very small head, .....
As mentioned, there is no head - the original head is sheared off during assembly. They will need to be drilled out - at least the top part - once you get beyond what is left of the larger diameter, the switch assembly will come off and you can then unscrew the remainder of the screw. Most likely will unscrew with your fingers at that point, or you can use vize-grips.

If you want to attach pics use the 'manage attachments' tag below the main edit field - or host them on a remote site and link to that

If the bolt stubs refuse to move after you have the bolt heads off, there is probably pink threadlock in there too.....
There shouldn't be threadlock on these Martin - frequently used on Japanes bikes but the Triumph shear bolts should have nothing.
Indeed there were a bunch of Sprints that had the bolts just unscrewing themselves and ignition switch becoming loose - obviously they were shearing before they reached the proper insertion torque
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick question???

how do I post pictures in this forum, I've try but can't get it. I have the image in my PC but I can copy and paste or insert it on the post
 

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how do I post pictures in this forum, I've try but can't get it. I have the image in my PC but I can copy and paste or insert it on the post
As my previous reply

...If you want to attach pics use the 'manage attachments' tag below the main edit field - or host them on a remote site and link to that ....
When you hit reply, scroll below the main text entry field to the 'additional options' section and click on 'manage attachments'
 

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There shouldn't be threadlock on these Martin
The threadlock appeared somewhere around 2007. Earlier 1050s did not have it, but most of the later ones seem to have threadlocked bolts. Some more, some less. My 2005 had none, on the 2009 the bolts looked like they had been dipped in the stuff.

Of course I have not gone through hundreds of bikes, but the above has been the case with the handfull of 1050s I know of where the owner has disassembled the yoke for recoating.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry, I think I missed you first reply on the picture posting. I kept reading on the ignition issue.

I hope I'm lucky with removing the security bolts. I have the late 2007 model. But what confuses me is that, mine has all the late 2007 changes and VIN # but I have a Plastic tank. I thought that the late 2007 came with the Metal tank. I have the oxygen sensor on the Header instead of the mid-pipe with the heat shield and I have the high VIN # 281-8##

Here is a picture of the security bolt head
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quite a bit of stub left on the bolt. Hammering a size too small torx socket on the stub might work too.
That was my first idea. I really don't want to disassemble too much just to removed the switch. I did a quick fix by using a cable tide on the switch to keep it in place
 

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Sorry, I think I missed you first reply on the picture posting. I kept reading on the ignition issue.

I hope I'm lucky with removing the security bolts. I have the late 2007 model. But what confuses me is that, mine has all the late 2007 changes and VIN # but I have a Plastic tank. I thought that the late 2007 came with the Metal tank. I have the oxygen sensor on the Mid-pipe instead of the header pipe with the heat shield and I have the high VIN # 281-8##

Here is a picture of the security bolt head
My understanding is the new year changes were made as the older parts played out. Yours is not the first "hybrid" I've seen. Go by your VIN when in doubt.
 
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