[newsh]

Hi all
I have an issue with my ignition switch, if I turn it all the way to the right the tacho sweeps but then I have no power and the bike won’t start, I have to turn it back very slightly anti-clockwise then it’s fine. Now that I know this I can always get it to fire up but I’m a bit nervous of it cutting out at some point when I hit a bump or something .
It seems like it’s probably just some corrosion inside the switch so I’m thinking to dismantle and clean the contacts and hopefully get it working reliably. Also I’ve got the front end of the bike in bits at the moment so it’s nice and accessible!
Anyone been there and done that? Easy process or PITA?

 

[riddmkidd]

What year and model is your bike? There are several threads on ignition failures relating to the white wire in the 955 models. I don't remember if that affects the 1050cc models too (2005+). One member did take the ignition apart as their contacts were dirty and not making a solid enough contact. I'm away right now and can post the thread link later.

The mounting bolts are security bolts that have the heads sheared off once they're installed so you might need a Dremel or a tap and die kit to get them out. Others are only hand tight from wear and just need needle nose pliers to grab them and unscrew. I'm actually missing one and can't get the other out...

 

[riddmkidd]

Search results for query: Ignition switch

www.triumphrat.net

 

[moreteavicar]

Hi John, when I replaced my key barrel, I noticed there is a bit of slack in the plastic housing on the old lock (although didn't have the same issue as yourself though - this is the when my key snapped off in the barrel!). In any case, given the salty water history of your bike, might be worth a try with wire brush and contact cleaner lubricant - the contact part pries away from the plastic housing at the end of the lock without need to drill out the sheer bolt (which is for changing barrel only). Unfortunately I don't have a before and inbetween dissambly photo, just an after shot of that being removed (contact plate in background, RH side)

 

[moreteavicar]

Unfortunately I don't have a before and inbetween dissambly photo, just an after shot of that being removed (contact plate in background, RH side)

PS I remember it was pretty tough prying it out, as its meant to be "water tight"!

 

[newsh]

Search results for query: Ignition switch

www.triumphrat.net

Thanks man, there’s a good thread there, pics are missing but description is good

 

[newsh]

Hi John, when I replaced my key barrel, I noticed there is a bit of slack in the plastic housing on the old lock (although didn't have the same issue as yourself though - this is the when my key snapped off in the barrel!). In any case, given the salty water history of your bike, might be worth a try with wire brush and contact cleaner lubricant - the contact part pries away from the plastic housing at the end of the lock without need to drill out the sheer bolt (which is for changing barrel only). Unfortunately I don't have a before and inbetween dissambly photo, just an after shot of that being removed (contact plate in background, RH side) View attachment 807733

Cheers Adrian, that’s what I’m trying to do, I’ve taken the top yoke off and removed the two tiny security screws to separate the switch from the lock. The plastic seems very brittle though, I’ve already broken a small piece out of the housing with gentle prying..

 

[newsh]

Apart, cleaned and back together.
Seems to work ok but the dash and headlights are off the bike at the mo so will see.
Didn’t look too bad in there but was very dry with some dark areas on the contacts so used switch cleaner with some very fine abrasive paper and then a smear of silicon grease on contacts and moving parts.

Also I found an old switch from a scooter my lad had which happened to have the same housing and swapped out the brittle one!

 

[moreteavicar]

Good stuff, looks like you had some copper oxide (green powder) in there which also makes an insulator - hope alls running now