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Thank you , Vertigo.
You say that the tacho was inoperative. But was the engine able to start, and normally turning?
In these last maps, the Dwell duration was reduced to prevent coils overheating. But it seems that the tacho needs a longer Dwell duration. So i need to find a good compromise.

Could you test these new maps (V04)?
 

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"But was the engine able to start, and normally turning?"

Somewhat harder starting with the PVL map, but ran well once on the road. Harder starting with the Gill map as well. I didn't go on the road with the Gill map, only to start it an note the tach was dead.


"Could you test these new maps (V04)?"

Happy to help. Somewhat harder starting with both maps, and the tach is still dead. The weather turned here, and I was not able to get out on the road today.

Re-mapping with the "Plus" map again returned the easier starting and functional tach.
 

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Ok! So it seems that reducing Dwell duration was not a good idea from Ignitech…
So, i will prepare all the maps with the Dwell duration used in "plus" map.
But it'strange.. Dwell duration parameters are the same in the "V2 plus" and in the "V4 PVL coil 1.2 Ohm". They were reduced in the "V3". So the engine and the tacho should work with the two maps.

You can find a new "V05" map for two coils.
 

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Version 5

Still not tach with either map.

After trialing the Gill map, I had a difficult time getting the igniter to connect to the laptop. I was finally able to connect them and reinstalled the "Plus" map. Could the maps have caused that?

Most likely due to my running Windows 7 in a virtual machine on a very dodgy 2006 Macbook Pro.

Just curious. What is the advantage of using either of the coil specific maps to the "Plus" map that seems to be working well?
 

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Still have the original map in my recently purchased ignitor.
The time to engine start has definitely become longer. When warm the engine turns over for almost a full 3 seconds before it starts.
With the stock ignitor it was half of that time or less.
 

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Still not tach with either map.
...
Just curious. What is the advantage of using either of the coil specific maps to the "Plus" map that seems to be working well?
A 0.7 Ohm coil needs a different Dwell than a 1.2 Ohm.
If you have PVL 1.2 Ohm, you just try this map.
If anybody else has the original coils, he must test the Gill maps.

About your problem with Apple computer, i cannot help you. I just use Wintel computers with Windows 10.

I don't understand why Ignitech changed the original parameters. The tachos had no problem. Next map with original parameters for any coil under 2 Ohms.
 

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Still have the original map in my recently purchased ignitor.
The time to engine start has definitely become longer. When warm the engine turns over for almost a full 3 seconds before it starts.
With the stock ignitor it was half of that time or less.
You must to program a new map. The last original map from Ignitech is just a disaster…
 

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Success

About your problem with Apple computer, i cannot help you. I just use Wintel computers with Windows 10.
Darn, I was hoping you would send me a new laptop. ;)

Regardless, V06 seems to be a winner. Starts reasonably easily, and the tach works.

I think the somewhat difficult starting is a carb issue. Seems to flood easily when "chocked". I was waiting to dig into those in order to help test the maps.
 

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Ok! Pappy! should test the "06".

@Vertigo1

Sorry but my computers speak french and use meters, ° Celsius and other bizarre european norms….
You need good synchronized carburators without hazardous rejetting. And good sparkplugs (original with resistor!!!).
And if you want to add an IAPS (0-120 kPa powered by 5V) it is not expansive and the advance is modulated with the altimetry and the engine load.
I prepared a map with "short' Dwell. and snapshots to explain…

Greetings from Toulouse
 

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Hate to sound naive but what do I need other than the cable to get into the ignitor and change the program?
 

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First

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/stahnout

- You download the last firmware ant the last software.
- You connect the converter USB/COM to your computer. Windows must find the good driver… (since Windows 7)
- You upgrade the unit with the last uploader (in English…) After verifying the COM number. you must read "succesfully upgraded" in the end.
- You open the last software V96. You verify the Com number. You open the last map (V06). Contact "on", you click "Program".

The end
 

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Am trying to do this with my desktop right now.
Does this have to be done with a laptop while connected to the bike?
 

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No difference! A computer is a computer, desktop or laptop… But only with microsoft OS, since W7… For Apple or Linux, i'm not a specialist...
 

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Okay, thanks!
Have tried both com1 and com3 ports and it will not recognize the ignitor on either one.
Not sure what I am doing wrong but am trying at least.
 

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Well that puts the brakes on this project......
Guess my next step is to try and resurrect an old laptop we have and see if I can do it while it is on the bike.
 

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I moved a computer with Windows 10 out to the bike and set it up.
I got as far as downloading new firmware.
when I tried to do anything with the version 06 all it would show is "No connection to PC"
Help ! ...... and thank you.
 
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