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I have a 69 Bonneville that I restoring. I have a parts book, but it doesn`t show how things connect. What I need is a picture that shows how the front stays connect to the forks and a picture of the top on the engine connecting to the frame. Dumb questions I know but would be helpful. Thank you.

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I have a 69 Bonneville that I restoring. I have a parts book, but it doesn`t show how things connect. What I need is a picture that shows how the front stays connect to the forks and a picture of the top on the engine connecting to the frame.
Not dumb questions. But I advise just asking the question; neither the workshop manual nor just pictures will tell you the gotchas to watch out for.

Parts book - As you're in the US, your "69 Bonneville" is a T120R with an engine/frame number either greater than DU85903 or has a two-letter date code, second letter C and a five-figure number? The parts book you have has, on its first page, "Catalogue No. 7" and, at the bottom, "PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 1968" and "REF. SPC.7."?

How The Front Stays Connect To The Forks
Page 44 ("Telescopic Front Fork")
Part #35 "RIGHT BOTTOM MEMBER" aka slider shows two lugs, the top one is circular with a raised oblong area. Part #34 "LEFT BOTTOM MEMBER" has a similar lug, although it isn't shown in the illustration because of the viewpoint.

Pages 60/61 ("Fenders")
You should have two each of parts #5, #25 and #26:-

. The oblong holes in the parts #5 should be a close fit around the raised oblongs on the lug on each of the two sliders ("RIGHT" or "LEFT BOTTOM MEMBER").

. Check the length of bolts #25 into the slider lugs. The Description on page 61 says "1/2 in. U.H." (Under Head) but ime that can be short; a bolt should use as much of the thread without reaching the bottom of the hole - in a slider lug that's the slider wall and, if you dent it with a bolt, the dent scrapes on the stanchion when the suspension works, creating additional friction.

Btw, you can find out additional information about bolts, screws, nuts and washers by taking the part number (S1882 in the case of part #25) to

. Unfortunately, part #26 is one of the (relatively few) times StainlessBits doesn't work; while it tells you the washer is "large OD", it doesn't tell you how large. :( In fact, the washer needs to be large enough to cover the oblong of each Bracket (part #5) and slider lug so, when the bolt's screwed through the washer into the slider lug, the Bracket is sandwiched firmly between the washer and the circular part of the lug, so the oblong precludes the possibility of the Bracket rotating around the bolts if it comes loose.

The circular hole in a Bracket is about level with one short side of the oblong; that short side should be uppermost.

Before attaching part #2 ("Front stay") and part #3 ("Centre stay") to anything, check the holes in the ends of any given Stay are level with and opposite each other - my T150 came to me with one Stay that was obviously the apprentice's first attempt; it was crap but no-one noticed 'til my T150's front suspension stopped working when its bolts were tightened ... :bluduh

The holes in the ends of the Front stay and Centre stay bolt to the holes in the part #5 "Bracket" on each slider; the ends of one Stay should be further apart than the ends of the other Stay, so one fits 'inside' or 'outside' the other, both fit 'outside' the Brackets. You shouldn't need to force the ends of the Stays closer together to bolt them to the Brackets; be aware there are similar-looking but wider Stays for '73/'74 disc-brake forks.

The holes in the tabs attached part-way around each Stay bolt to the fender. When bolting Stays to Brackets and fender to Stays, I start with everything bolted loosely and then go around several times gradually tightening each fastener in turn while checking that none are, say, pulling the fender off-centre. Be aware that particularly holes in fenders and tabs on Stays weren't/aren't precision-fitted, Stay tabs can gouge fender paint because of misalignment; I cover the underside of Stay tabs with a layer of adhesive cloth tape (known as "gaffer tape" and "duct tape" in GB).

How The Top Of The Engine Connects To The Frame
Pages 20/21 ("Cylinder Block and Head, T120R")
You should have four each of parts #38 ("Cylinder head bolt for torque stay") and #26 ("Plain washer"). Two of each fit through each rocker-box, through the cylinder head and screw into the cylinder block. Be aware that their threads are BSC (British Standard Cycle), aka "CEI" (Cycle Engineering Institute) in StainlessBits. The correct socket or wrench to fit the hex. would be marked "3/8 BS" (British Standard), although they measure 0.6"AF. A socket or wrench marked "5/16 W" (Whitworth) is the same AF and, to save you buying just one British Standard socket or wrench, if you have a 19/32"AF socket, that's a :thumb fit.

Pages 38/39 ("Engine Unit Fittings and Footrests")
You should have four each of parts #29 ("Engine torque stay"), #32 ("Distance piece"), #25 and #26 and two each of #30, #31 and #11; I add plain washers between the "Spring washers" and the Torque Stays or frame. Be aware that, because one end of each #29 "Engine torque stay" attaches to a "Cylinder head bolt for torque stay" (pages 20/21, #38), #26 Nuts are BSC (CEI); otoh, the two #30 Bolt and #31 Nut are UNF ...

Page 34 (Frame)
Tube bracing the bottom of the steering head to the rear of the top frame tube, there are two vertical brackets attached below the tube, quadrilateral bracket towards the front, triangular towards the rear; from pages 38/39, a #30 Bolt passes through one end of a #29 Engine torque stay, a #32 Distance piece, a frame bracket, a second Distance piece, a second torque stay and into a #31 Nut.

Be aware that, because the Cylinder head bolts are further apart than the ends of two Distance pieces either side of a frame bracket, and the top of each Cylinder bolt hex. is lower than the hole in either frame bracket, don't spend too much time and frustration trying to get the angled ends of the torque stays to align, the chances are minimal to non-existent even if you have original half-century-old parts. Damhikt. :whistle


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