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Hit the button once to turn CC on. Hit it again when you've reached desired speed to lock it in. I find the second press needs to be quite positive, bit more than momentary, as Bobber101, maybe half a second.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Success..!! I finally figured out the missing piece. Because I had decided to not use my rear brake switch, the system's circuitry wasn't completed (canbus?), and was the reason it would not allow me to set the speed. Once I re-installed the switch everything worked as it should.

Notes:
Once the cc icon appears in the tach window, cc is "active" and is ready to "set speed". If it isn't there one push of the button engages it.

Once the speed is set, the green cc light comes on and stays on. I tested all five of the "defeat" devices and they worked as they should. They are both brakes, clutch, and throttle to forward position or exceeding set speed postion.

9 dollars and some time to figure it out and I have cruise control !!! I think most anybody could do this.
 

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Success..!! I finally figured out the missing piece. Because I had decided to not use my rear brake switch, the system's circuitry wasn't completed (canbus?), and was the reason it would not allow me to set the speed. Once I re-installed the switch everything worked as it should.

Notes:
Once the cc icon appears in the tach window, cc is "active" and is ready to "set speed". If it isn't there one push of the button engages it.

Once the speed is set, the green cc light comes on and stays on. I tested all five of the "defeat" devices and they worked as they should. They are both brakes, clutch, and throttle to forward position or exceeding set speed postion.

9 dollars and some time to figure it out and I have cruise control !!! I think most anybody could do this.
Well done, i had faith all along (y)
 
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I'm glad you got it sorted.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
it's a shame there isn't one for the Thruxton or I would do this mod myself if only to give my right arm a rest now and again.
FYI -- I was looking at wiring diagrams and it shows a circuit for CC on both Thruxtons. The T100, T120 and Bobber use the same colored wires, but the Thruxtons are different. It'd be worth taking a look, no? The other WC models apparently don't have the cc option.

729284


This is where the connector is I spliced into. I used the yellow (switched 12v) and white w/green stripe. The W/G wire goes to the ECU.

729287
 

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FYI -- I was looking at wiring diagrams and it shows a circuit for CC on both Thruxtons. The T100, T120 and Bobber use the same colored wires, but the Thruxtons are different. It'd be worth taking a look, no? The other WC models apparently don't have the cc option.

View attachment 729284

This is where the connector is I spliced into. I used the yellow (switched 12v) and white w/green stripe. The W/G wire goes to the ECU.

View attachment 729287
It's on the wiring diagram in the service manual I have as well, but there's no cruise control map, on TuneECU anyway, and it's not listed as an accessory for the Thruxton so I figured it was a non-starter.
 
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Aye, that's the annoying part of all this. When you buy Triumph's Cruise Control, for whatever ridiculous price, all you're really getting is the 9 dollar switch. Cruise Control, ie the map, is free. Why on earth they can't just put it on the bikes from new is beyond me. At least people now have a choice if they fancy the DIY route.
 

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It's on the wiring diagram in the service manual I have as well, but there's no cruise control map, on TuneECU anyway, and it's not listed as an accessory for the Thruxton so I figured it was a non-starter.
Right. The WC Thrux and T120 were advertised at the model launch in late 2015 as being offered with cruise control as an option. CC for the Thrux never came out, and some early buyers were mightily pissed off. All that remains externally visible of CC on the Thrux is the green light on the right instrument face. You can see it in the right light.

After a few early T120 CC kits were delivered, Triumph tried to pull back from offering any more kits. Don't know why they changed their corporate minds. IMHO, only cruise control on the Speedmaster was handled properly as it was installed at the factory.

I think the Thrux might have most if not all of what it needs for cruise control installed at the factory, just like the T120. It's a shame there doesn't appear to be a CC map in the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
After todays ride all was going well. All CC functions were normal. All of a sudden I got a MIL light and the CC function quit working.

It was P1576, brake 1 switch correlation error with brake switch 2. It cleared without issue. Both brake switches are now like the factory wired it.

Does anybody know what the "correlation error" description means?

Thanks.. Tim
 

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Right. The WC Thrux and T120 were advertised at the model launch in late 2015 as being offered with cruise control as an option. CC for the Thrux never came out, and some early buyers were mightily pissed off. All that remains externally visible of CC on the Thrux is the green light on the right instrument face. You can see it in the right light.

After a few early T120 CC kits were delivered, Triumph tried to pull back from offering any more kits. Don't know why they changed their corporate minds. IMHO, only cruise control on the Speedmaster was handled properly as it was installed at the factory.

I think the Thrux might have most if not all of what it needs for cruise control installed at the factory, just like the T120. It's a shame there doesn't appear to be a CC map in the ECU.
That's interesting information, I wonder why they changed their minds on the Thruxton, listening to people on here it seems to work well for a basic cruise control system.
Similar to what they did with the quickshifter, added the wiring and put it in the map but never offered it as an optional extra, although now I have mine fitted I'll concede it's not up there with the latest systems so maybe that's why.
After todays ride all was going well. All CC functions were normal. All of a sudden I got a MIL light and the CC function quit working.

It was P1576, brake 1 switch correlation error with brake switch 2. It cleared without issue. Both brake switches are now like the factory wired it.

Does anybody know what the "correlation error" description means?

Thanks.. Tim
I'm guessing that it monitors the two inputs from the brake switches, the normally closed contacts are wired in series to one input and the normally open contacts are wired in parallel to the other input, and also the brake light.
So there should always be one input made, if neither inputs are made or both made at same time it assumes a brake switch fault or wiring fault.
Didn't you say previously you'd modified your rear brake switch or something, that was probably the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The only thing I did to the rbs was disconnect it at the connectors. I plugged it in for the initiation process, then unplugged it again. There's no wiring mods to either front or rear switch currently.

Went for another test and all is normal again. I tried alternate braking like front then rear, rear then front and both together. Nothing set it off. We'll see what happens.. I don't believe this to be a serious fault mechanically at least.
 

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The only thing I did to the rbs was disconnect it at the connectors. I plugged it in for the initiation process, then unplugged it again. There's no wiring mods to either front or rear switch currently.

Went for another test and all is normal again. I tried alternate braking like front then rear, rear then front and both together. Nothing set it off. We'll see what happens.. I don't believe this to be a serious fault mechanically at least.
Why are you disconnecting the rear brake switch?
I would have thought that would create the correlation error straight away.
also I've just double checked the wiring diagram and I had it the wrong way round previously, it's the rear brake switch that's fed from the front brake switch normally closed.
also when it's talking about brake switch 1 and brake switch 2 i don't believe it means the front or rear brake switch, it means the two contacts within the switch, the normally open and normally closed.
The ECU doesn't have separate inputs from the front and rear brake switches, they are linked together to one input in the ECU so it doesn't matter if you press the rear or the front, it's all the same. in fact when you press the front brake switch it cuts the power to the rear brake switch so it's irrelevant if you press that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The first answer is because I run without a sprocket cover. I eliminated the rear brake switch for looks.. :rolleyes:

I thought the same thing, that it would trigger a fault right away. Who knows. At this point I'll wait and see if its persistent. I think I have what's needed if I have to troubleshoot P1576. Plus I'm learning as I go here.. (y)
 
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