An old guy in our club fitted the Williams kit to his bonnie a few years back as he has arthritis. He was not impressed and felt that it did not make the action easier and the release was a bit wooden. l tried it and could not notice it being any smoother than my cable jobbie. One guy has a teflon /nylon lined Venhill cable and dogleg lever and that is very slick but precise. They both have the alloy clutch lifter plates with needle rollers and seven plate clutch. so l reckon that a Venhill cable, seven plate clutch and alloy lifter plate plus a good basket ( and staight pushrod) would save all that hassle of chaging to hydralics. Just our ( TOMMC)opinion.
or did you mean the actual clutch actuator?
I have posted this picture before, but all it is, is a cylinder with a small piston/seal (from a master cylinder). When operated, the piston pushes down a rod, which pushes the standard 3-ball clutch mechanism (it works both ways if you think about it, puled up by a cable, or pushed down by a rod).
Hmm, won't let me uplad a photo that is already uploaded. I will try again later.
Here is a drawing.
The bottom of the body (along with the thread to screw into the gearbox) unscrews to allow access to the piston and seal (blue). The hydraulics attach at the top and push the piston down, which in turn pushes the rod (red). That then pushes the 3-ball actuator inside the gearbox outer.
If you are handy with a lathe, then it should be fairly easy to make. All I would change is to make the piston a bit deeper to add another seal and to put a spring inside the bottom chamber around the rod. That would return the piston a bit easier.
Well now this is just my pinion but a well adjusted Triumph clutch should require NO MORE than two fingers to operate.
I note in the posted picture you have the Primary chaincase vent blocked and what appear to be additional piping to the air box cover and connector pipe between the airbox and T/S carb and another one by the oil filter. Just wondering what are these for?
I'm wondering if the screw in hydraulic set up allows the weight of the lever of the actuator (the one that rides up on the three balls)to apply a slight but constant pressure to the end of the clutch push rod since it is no longer attached to anything. Doesn't the clutch cable normally hold it just off if the clutch is properly adjusted?
I haven't seen that type fitted to anyone's bike (other than mine) either. I can't remember who supplied it, but I fitted it in 1980.
The 'pipe' going to the outside of the airbox is a wire to the sensor that it is attached to. That is a proximity sensor (one on the other side of the bike too) that triggers an alarm if anyone comes within 4' of my bike.
The chaincase vent is blanked off because I have a dry clutch. The three vent holes in the bottom of the primary have also been blanked off. That means that there are additional vents to the rocker boxes, where the TDC hole is behind the barrels (if you look carefully at the photo, you can see a transparent breather pipe just above where the blanking plate is on the primary) and to the oil filler cap.
The other pipes that you see are black for hard piping to the oil filter (10mm copper heating pipe works just fine and I think the small amount of hard piping works better than all rubber pipe) and clear for the fuel filter.
It is quite possible that the weight of the actuating rod does constantly push down onto the 3-ball mechanism. However, as it has been that way for the last 29 years, I don't think it is doing much harm!
For a hydrolic system the only benefit I can see is similar to a brake lever where the ratio can be changed to something much higher. This would be useful if the engine was high torque and had heavy clutch springs or something.
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