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Realize that Tuning Link software is simply adjusting to a set AFR. It does help you perform a full remap more quickly, but it not always perfect.

This will get you in the ballpark, but you will not know if you are sitting in the nose-bleed seats or not.

You will still need to bracket these settings by testing more/less fuel and ignition advance.

Tune to max brake torque at all speeds and loads, and follow trends. Give the engine what it wants, not what you think it wants.
 

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Give Her What She Needs

+1 on Power Trip's post. I've gotten my Bonnie up to 80hp on the rear wheel and 61# of torque. This Tuneboy is amazing when you learn to use it.
 

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Hey Frank, 80bhp and 61nm is impressive. Can you share what you did and/or post your Tune? I have an America not a Bonnie but your tactics should translate between the two bikes. I realise I can't use your tune but I can look at in detail in Tuneboy and see what works for me.
 

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Hey Frank, 80bhp and 61nm is impressive. Can you share what you did and/or post your Tune? I have an America not a Bonnie but your tactics should translate between the two bikes. I realise I can't use your tune but I can look at in detail in Tuneboy and see what works for me.
My 09 Bonnie Has the 904 TPUSA kit with the 11 1/2 to 1 HCPistons, 813 cams, and I opened up my Throttle Bodies to 38.5 CM.
The Airbox is removed and running Pod filters. The O2 sensors are removed along with the AI and I have Dominataor HT pipes.

I had the PCIII prior to the Tuneboy remap. So far just a good, clean AF map that I richened on the low end to stop some popping on decel. We just fed her fuel till she said she was full. We also moved the timing a bit in a flat spot.
Going back to the dyno tomorrow to see if there is any more to be had with the timimg and possible AF tweaks after the ign timing moves.My problem is I'm about computer ignorant but know what I'm tring to achieve. I'm lucky to have a riding buddy that reall knows commputers and is good with the tuneedit part of Tuneboy.
I've got a lot of dyno time and a list of the tunes we did working up to the present.
After I opened up my TB's, she really went lean, so my tune would probably be way rich for a stk TB set up. I can't post it , but if you look ion my photo album, you'll see the ign timing as it is now.
Later
 

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Frank,
Have you altered the F_L switch point yet?

Get this right, and the change-over will become smooth while the throttle response improves nicely. ;)
 

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Frank,
Have you altered the F_L switch point yet?

Get this right, and the change-over will become smooth while the throttle response improves nicely. ;)
Not sure of what you're talking about. I 1st set the Tps. Then took her to the dyno. We worked on the AF for both cyls and got a great improvement. There was a noticable dip in the timing in one area and we brought it up to scale with the other values and picked up torque and power there. I'm going back to work on the timing now..
What are you talking abouit with the FL switch point?
Thanks in advance
Frank
 

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New to me too Frank but i found this:

"The F_L Switch point is the table that defines the throttle position at which the ECU changes from using the L (manifold pressure based) table and the F (Throttle position based).
A value of 20 in this table is about 5% but I have not worked out the exact scale value. I will fix this later so it displays throttle %).
I would suggest that you set values up to idle (sic) to about 10 then have 0 from that point on.
This will prevent some of the snatch when the ECU changes maps."

... on this forum ...
http://www.triumphtorque.com/messageboard/thread/85097.aspx

Time for some more experimenting with Tuneboy :HappyRoll
 

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For best resolution, on individual throttle intakes, the ECU uses MAP based tables at lower rpm and loads, and then transitions to TPS based tables at higher loads and engine speeds (where there is less MAP signal). This is opposite from most automotive uses with plenum intakes.

As posted above, the F_L switch is used to alter when the ECU changes over from MAP (L ) to TPS (F) based tables.

Unfortunately, some bikes and maps tend to have a rough transition between the tables. This is noticeable when cruising at a specific speed and engine rpm, then slightly increasing or decreasing speed - some bikes can have a sudden flat spot or hesitation. By changing when the table change occurs, you can smooth the transition.

From experience, I would not adjust it to 0 at too low of rpm, as this will reduce response and can make some bikes have deceleration popping or a hesitation on acceleration. I normally reduce the settings to a much lower point, but look for good gas readings when the throttle is suddenly opened from low TPS values while at specific speeds and loads where the bike is used frequently.

I suggest you try a few changes and see if you notice any differences. This can help you get a grasp on how the change-over works, and how it effects the F and L tables - and what is needed for best results.

You will need to adjust both F and L tables afterwards to maximize the results.

I hope this helps.
 
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