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Discussion Starter #1
Still trying to remove my carburetors to clean them and do not know how I should disconnect these tubes. Should I pull off the rubber tube portion or unscrew it from the carburetor itself? This is my first time trying to take off the carbs.

Thanks

RJ



 

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Those are your throttle cables. Loosen the nuts, free the cable ends, and remove them. You might have to loosen or disconnect them at the other end to make it easier, because you'll need some slack to free the ends from the carburetor assembly. Pay attention to how it all fits together, maybe take some pictures if you're not sure of it, because it all has to go back the same way.

You'll have to spend some time adjusting and checking them when you put it back together. It's a bit tedious. Use some penetrating oil on those corroded threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those are your throttle cables. Loosen the nuts, free the cable ends, and remove them. You might have to loosen or disconnect them at the other end to make it easier, because you'll need some slack to free the ends from the carburetor assembly. Pay attention to how it all fits together, maybe take some pictures if you're not sure of it, because it all has to go back the same way.

You'll have to spend some time adjusting and checking them when you put it back together. It's a bit tedious. Use some penetrating oil on those corroded threads.
Thanks Marty,

I tried to pull off the rubber part of the cable gently but as I was pulling back on it a touch of liquid started to come out of the end of the cable where it was attached from, so I stopped and pushed it back on… the part I don’t understand is that the nuts in the picture are not the only thing holding It and attaching to the carb assembly. There are some metal / steel looking cables coming out of the ends as well that look as if they would need to be taken off or unattached somehow. Any ideas?

Thanks again

RJ
 

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On each cable, loosen only the top nut. You want to be able to put them back the same way, since that is the adjustment. This will give you some slack in the cable itself. With the slack in it, you'll see how to maneuver it out. With no tension, the metal is quite flimsy.

On a lighter note, I'd highly recommend a manual. The Haynes one is cheap. Removing those cables is among some of the easiest things you can do on the bike. With a manual, you can become quite proficient in a short time.
 

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Looks like kinda salty moist air there in Florida.
About the liquid you mentioned that came out, it was probably
just residue moisture in your throttle cables.
While they are off now would be a great time to lubricate
the cables metal inner lines to avoid problems later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like kinda salty moist air there in Florida.
About the liquid you mentioned that came out, it was probably
just residue moisture in your throttle cables.
While they are off now would be a great time to lubricate
the cables metal inner lines to avoid problems later.
If I detached the rubber tube from the metal shaft is there supposed to be any liquid at all coming out of where the rubber tube meets the metal shaft? Because there was some that came out as I was easing it off so as soon as I saw liquid start to drop to the ground I stopped trying to get it off and put it back on. What was that liquid?

Thanks RJ
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On each cable, loosen only the top nut. You want to be able to put them back the same way, since that is the adjustment. This will give you some slack in the cable itself. With the slack in it, you'll see how to maneuver it out. With no tension, the metal is quite flimsy.

On a lighter note, I'd highly recommend a manual. The Haynes one is cheap. Removing those cables is among some of the easiest things you can do on the bike. With a manual, you can become quite proficient in a short time.
I will try to loosen the top nut as you suggest and will report back. i have the hanes manual and will check to reference before i do it. thanks RJ
 

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Discussion Starter #8
is there supposed to be any liquid at all coming out of where the rubber tube meets the metal shaft?
 

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No, there's supposed to be no liquid in the throttle cable. It might be rainwater or washwater from a hose.

Be aware that even though this is a relatively simple procedure the level of understanding you have demonstrated suggests that this may turn into a very frustrating episode.

It isn't my intention to discourage anyone. I support the idea of a motorcycler doing his own work but I hope it doesn't lead to an "I wish I hadn't done that" moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, there's supposed to be no liquid in the throttle cable. It might be rainwater or washwater from a hose.

Be aware that even though this is a relatively simple procedure the level of understanding you have demonstrated suggests that this may turn into a very frustrating episode.

It isn't my intention to discourage anyone. I support the idea of a motorcycler doing his own work but I hope it doesn't lead to an "I wish I hadn't done that" moment.
Hi Slow Pocono,

Thanks for the heads up, but since I have no alternative I am “the mechanic” lol. I have time on my side and I am doing many bike projects at once because this is the first time I have access to a garage since I have owned the bike. I will surly learn along the way and appreciate all of your and this communities feedback greatly.

I will let the liquid, which looks clear and rather thick, viscous consistency drain out. I have to figure out how to free the ends from the carb assembly, I have slackened the bolts and now pulled them out of there casing but they are still attached to the carbs with the throttle cable. How do I get the cable off the carbs?

I have never taken the carbs off but have just lined the tank with caswells as it was very rusty and my petcock and inside of the tank were full of rust and varnish. I have drained the float bowels and drained the oil (needed to be changed) and changed the plugs and now on to trying to figure out the removal of the carbs so I can clean them.. this will be interesting.. any threads or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks RJ
 

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It might be lubricant in the cables.

No offense intended, but if you don't know what they are and you can't figure out how to get them off the carbs, you're going to have a very hard time putting them back together properly and adjusting them. It's a seriously tedious and fidgety job at both ends if you haven't done it before, and the adjustment of each cable affects the other one.

There's also an issue of safety here; if they're not adjusted right, the bike won't come down to idle properly and can accelerate when you turn the handlebar.

If you're going to do it anyway, lube the cables while you have them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It might be lubricant in the cables.

No offense intended, but if you don't know what they are and you can't figure out how to get them off the carbs, you're going to have a very hard time putting them back together properly and adjusting them. It's a seriously tedious and fidgety job at both ends if you haven't done it before, and the adjustment of each cable affects the other one.

There's also an issue of safety here; if they're not adjusted right, the bike won't come down to idle properly and can accelerate when you turn the handlebar.

If you're going to do it anyway, lube the cables while you have them off.
Hi Marty,

Thanks for the info. I didn’t take the carbs fully off the bike, I left the throttle cables attached. I will put them back on now and see how that goes…

Thanks RJ
 

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Make sure that the cables don't bind. Move the handlebar back and forth and look at the carb end to make sure that everything moves when it should and doesn't move when it shouldn't. Also make sure that the throttle snaps completely shut when you let go of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Make sure that the cables don't bind. Move the handlebar back and forth and look at the carb end to make sure that everything moves when it should and doesn't move when it shouldn't. Also make sure that the throttle snaps completely shut when you let go of it.
Hi Marty,

Thanks again for the info. I should have measured how much my throttle handle turned before I did any work, but I didn’t. it feels ok, maybe a touch tight, as in, the throttle doesn’t turn quite as much as it used to, but I don’t think it Is a huge difference. I made sure that each of the bolts on the cable next to the carbs was equally spaced out so that they would be in sync, but I haven’t screwed on the screws tight yet where the throttle cable meets the carb. I will do that and turn the handle bars and take a picture tonight or tomorrow to see what you think.
Cheers

RJ
 

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Be ready to turn the engine off quickly the first time you start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Make sure that the cables don't bind. Move the handlebar back and forth and look at the carb end to make sure that everything moves when it should and doesn't move when it shouldn't. Also make sure that the throttle snaps completely shut when you let go of it.
Hi Marty,

This first pic is from the left hand side and the other 2 are from the RHS. How do you think they look after I got screwed them back on? :eek:

Thanks RJ





 

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If the alignment (position) is not the same as when you started, you'll need to check the cables for proper adjustment, which is more involved than I can describe in a short reply.

Quick check: The moving parts at the carb end should snap shut when you let go of the throttle. You should be able to see and hear it. There should not be much slack in the grip when you turn the throttle, a few millimeters is right.

Small adjustments can be done at the carbs or with the adjusters at the top end.

The Haynes manual covers throttle cable adjustment in much more detail.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If the alignment (position) is not the same as when you started, you'll need to check the cables for proper adjustment, which is more involved than I can describe in a short reply.

Quick check: The moving parts at the carb end should snap shut when you let go of the throttle. You should be able to see and hear it. There should not be much slack in the grip when you turn the throttle, a few millimeters is right.

Small adjustments can be done at the carbs or with the adjusters at the top end.

The Haynes manual covers throttle cable adjustment in much more detail.
Great! Thanks Marty, It does snap back when I twist the throttle and it is more or less very close to where I had it before. When I finally finish all of my repairs I will check all of these variables that you mention. Thanks again

Cheers RJ
 

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Be ready to turn the engine off quickly the first time you start it.
Why is that? I will hold the clutch in just in case if you mention to do that because of the throttle being engaged...etc?
Regardless if the bikes in Neutral or you have the clutch pulled, if the throttle cables are set correctly you could find your engine winding out in the upper RPM range. I belive this is why SlowPocono was suggesting you be at the ready to turn the bike off when you first start it. If it does... that big red button on the right handle bar control works great for this. :D
 
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