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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I’d post a DIY solution for anyone who, like me, wants to use a rear stand with fork holders on their older model Thruxton or Bonneville, which does not have drilled holes for spools. (You could, of course, just drill and tap the swing arm, but if you’d rather not...)

I have a 2015 Thruxton Ace, and have been using a Pit Bull rear stand With pads under the swing arm, but I prefer fork-style lifting with spools. For about $3 in parts from your local hardware store, plus the cost of whichever spools you choose, you can make your bike rear stand ready in a jiffy.

Parts:
  • (1) 1/4-20 threaded rod, 24” in length (you‘ll cut this down to the right length depending on the size of the spools/sliders you decide to use)
  • (2) 1/4-20 stainless steel stop nuts
  • spools of your choice (note: I bought a pair of combo spools/sliders at my local Cycle Gear for $39.99 that work really well because they have removable bolts. So, they were easy to slip onto the threaded rod and tighten down with the stop nuts.) You’ll want to make sure that the spools you buy have removable bolts AND can fit a 1/4-20 rod.
Just slide the threaded rod through the rear axle, put your spools on the rod ends, mark with a sharpie where you need to cut the rod, remove the rod and cut it with a Dremel tool for a clean cut that will allow the stop nuts to install, then reinstall the rod and spools, and tighten down the stop nuts.

Easy, peasy.
3C5B3850-93AC-4BA1-B709-31382B0D72D0.jpeg
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3E07B032-F3EE-4782-939B-BA55F54EC4B1.jpeg 3C5B3850-93AC-4BA1-B709-31382B0D72D0.jpeg
 

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I thought I’d post a DIY solution for anyone who, like me, wants to use a rear stand with fork holders on their older model Thruxton or Bonneville, which does not have drilled holes for spools. (You could, of course, just drill and tap the swing arm, but if you’d rather not...)

I have a 2015 Thruxton Ace, and have been using a Pit Bull rear stand With pads under the swing arm, but I prefer fork-style lifting with spools. For about $3 in parts from your local hardware store, plus the cost of whichever spools you choose, you can make your bike rear stand ready in a jiffy.

Parts:
  • (1) 1/4-20 threaded rod, 24” in length (you‘ll cut this down to the right length depending on the size of the spools/sliders you decide to use)
  • (2) 1/4-20 stainless steel stop nuts
  • spools of your choice (note: I bought a pair of combo spools/sliders at my local Cycle Gear for $39.99 that work really well because they have removable bolts. So, they were easy to slip onto the threaded rod and tighten down with the stop nuts.) You’ll want to make sure that the spools you buy have removable bolts AND can fit a 1/4-20 rod.
Just slide the threaded rod through the rear axle, put your spools on the rod ends, mark with a sharpie where you need to cut the rod, remove the rod and cut it with a Dremel tool for a clean cut that will allow the stop nuts to install, then reinstall the rod and spools, and tighten down the stop nuts.

Easy, peasy.
View attachment 719309
View attachment 719309

View attachment 719310

View attachment 719310 View attachment 719309
There's also the ready made solution from Tec Bike Parts...
TEC Paddock Stand Bobbins Kit

719311


But, like your solution can't remove the rear wheel for service or to retire.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There's also the ready made solution from Tec Bike Parts...
TEC Paddock Stand Bobbins Kit

View attachment 719311

But, like your solution can't remove the rear wheel for service or to retire.
Well, what's the fun in buying something you can make with your own two hands! ;)

Just kidding - I was unaware of the TEC part when I decided to make mine. However, I do prefer that making it yourself allows you to choose your own spools, and in my case I have dual spools/sliders.

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your solution is great. My predators do not give me enough room for the spool.
Thanks. Do you mean that the predator exhausts you have extend in front of the rear axle nuts, so you cannot use this spool design?

If so, have you considered drilling and tapping the swingarm? I was going to do that, but decided to go the hollow axle route for now. If you do want spools, and have room on the face of the swingarm, you can just drill a small hole and use a 6 or 8mm tap to tap it. Then any aftermarket spools of the appropriate size (6 or 8mm) would simply screw right in (use some blue thread lock to secure the spools). I've done that on another bike, and it's easy. Just don't overdrill the holes! The benefit of this approach, as pointed out by justalurker, is that then you could use the rear stand to also remove the rear wheel. (I may do this at some point in order to have that option for wheel/tire/brakes maintenance.)

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Do you mean that the predator exhausts you have extend in front of the rear axle nuts, so you cannot use this spool design?

If so, have you considered drilling and tapping the swingarm? I was going to do that, but decided to go the hollow axle route for now. If you do want spools, and have room on the face of the swingarm, you can just drill a small hole and use a 6 or 8mm tap to tap it. Then any aftermarket spools of the appropriate size (6 or 8mm) would simply screw right in (use some blue thread lock to secure the spools). I've done that on another bike, and it's easy. Just don't overdrill the holes! The benefit of this approach, as pointed out by justalurker, is that then you could use the rear stand to also remove the rear wheel. (I may do this at some point in order to have that option for wheel/tire/brakes maintenance.)

Cheers,
By the way, I love the sound of the predators on the Thruxton. My Ace has the BC 2-1 pipe, which is super loud. I like it, but sometimes it is a bit obnoxious. ;)
 
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