I put my digital mm on the leads to the horn, and pressed the button I got ~9 volts with the bike off.On 2006-12-15 18:57, jimballard wrote:
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY:
LOOSEN THE LARGE NUT ON THE BACK CENTER OF THE HORN AND TURN IN THE SCREW UNTIL IT JUST TOUCHES THE DIAPHRAGM, THEN BACK IT OUT 3/4 TURN AND TIGHTEN THE NUT. TRY THE HORN, IF IT WORKS ADJUST THE SMALL "TONE" SCREW THAT'S ON THE BACK OF THE HORN AS WELL, TO GET THE LOUDEST POSSIBLE SETTING. I'M ASSUMING (BAD WORD) THAT YOU'VE GOT THE SAME TYPE LUCAS HORN AS MY '70.
DON'T LIKE TO BLOW MY OWN HORN (SORRY, I COULDN'T HELP MYSELF) BUT I HOPE THIS HELPS: JIM
BY THE BY, YOU DID CHECK TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE'S CURRENT GETTING TO THE HORN, DIDN'T YOU?
THANKS!On 2006-12-16 11:51, theelderrocker wrote:
Low-tech has worked for me 90% of the time. Shoot a shot of penetrating oil into the horn, let it sit for a bit and maybe help it in with a shot of compressed air, then fiddle with the little tone screw (this is the small one) a little at a time until you hear it "thunk" when power is applied. At times I'll use a couple of jumper wires and a car battery for this step, saves on the bike wiring-this step can take a while if it's really corroded. Keep fiddling with it until the sound gets where you want it to be. I believe disuse will cause the horns to stick and not vibrate, thus the oil. It is my understanding that you don't want to fool with the central screw head/nut, but I could be wrong.
Worst case, you go down and get a pretty chrome Emgo universal horn for 10 bucks and put the old one in a box for the time when you can get your 100 dollars out of it on E-Bay 2020 or whatever they'll be calling themselves then.
Just love a nice pair of (Clear) Hooters :-D