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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I would show this off. Ordered a sheet of 12x12 aluminum...cost $13. It's 1/8in. thick and was a beast to bend into shape...





also added this little touch...

 

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GROUP BUY!
 

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After scraping pounds of mud from in between the starter motor and the oil return pipe I made up about the same: piece of 2mm stainless (swapped for some old copper cables at the junkyard ), some leftover Triumph Legend bolts (fasteners chrome rear fender supports ) wich made it for free! The frame crosspiece is still in place. No aluminium used : humidity+ steel+ naked alu creates lovely cauliflower effects in winter ( salt ). I remember my '76 Bonnie: it would have fractured the metal in no time with it's vibes, hence the 4 bolts on the T100.



[ This message was edited by: greyplague on 2007-02-02 14:22 ]
 

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very clean...very nice.

you might want to anchor the rear so the vibration doesn't result in metal fatigue.

make a simple band (1" X 1/8" strap) around the frame (both sides) that bolts to the plate (looks like "P"...flat part down against the plate)

you don't want that vibrating on the mount alone I see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good idea Modre! Its on there pretty tightly....wonder if it would work to just put some rubber strips on the bottom between the plate and frame???
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I thought about that. It is clear of the oil plug by a couple inches. But If I do have to remove it, its just 2 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweatmachine-
I used the old "over the knee and then beat the ***** out of it with a rubber mallet" method.
Took a long time to get the bend right. I hardly have any metal working tools...

-Gray
 

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There is a strip of stainless bolted in a T form on the rear or the skid plate, with some crimp hose on the tips wich reach under the frame tubes ( hose not in situ yet on the pic ) -Bolts were replaced by the ones on my first pic. Fracturing-no. Work hardening- certainly: I made the bend in the plate on my knee, by now it won't budge trying to deform it;2mm stainless is TOUGH stuff! Changing oil is ok: the length is chosen to allow the oil (hot) flowing freely and missing the edge. Necessity? Yes: I have to ride 300 yds over a garden ( muddy ) path to reach my shed.The red stuff on the pic isn't rust but mud. I tucked the plate in between the frame tubes to achieve a cleaner look and a good support on the frame cross piece.

Thieu.



 

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On 2007-02-02 10:19, GrayMitchell wrote:
Thought I would show this off. Ordered a sheet of 12x12 aluminum...cost $13. It's 1/8in. thick and was a beast to bend into shape...



I want one too! :hammer: Where did you get the plate from? Was it precut in this shape and you just bent it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bassman-
I ordered from Mcmaster Carr. That place is awesome, and the best part about it, you being a fellow Georgian, is that they are local. Get your stuff the next day, once I even got a package the same day I ordered it. (mcmaster.com). I ordered a 12"x12" sheet of aluminum, 1/8 in. thick. I just measured the area under the bike and made a template of the skid plate out of some thick paper. Then just transfered my measurements to the plate and cut with a scroll saw. Bent it using any means necessary, knee, hammer, vise, foot, whatever. then just had to go buy some longer bolts to bolt it back on...presto!
 

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here's mine... 1/4" treddle plate...also tricky to bend.

4 bolts and the plate drops off for oil change...a couple extra seconds to the process...upside far outweighs the added chore.


it may yet get some rubber mud flap to keep the front tire crud completely at bay
 
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