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Discussion Starter #1
The center section black is about 2 days old here:

Distinction of Image - on the reflected glass is pretty good.
New spray heads on rattle cans are noticeably improved and two coats flowed out to a smooth - orange-peel- free finish.
Red paint is Duplicolor 'cherry' and is close to original 'candy-apple'.
Silver scallops are my take on original supplied colors?
 

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Nice job. Just don't spill any gasoline on it.

If the tank is gasoline free and not all buttoned down yet, you might want to put it in the oven at lowest setting (up to about 180F) and bake for a half hour.

You realize those clubman bars are upside down, right?;)

regards,
Rob
 

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If those bars are mounted the other way, they will not only bang the tank but cause permanent wrist damage in about 10 minutes of riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Snakeoil said:
Just don't spill any gasoline on it.
It's a ceramic formulae designed to resist gas and oil.
That's the reason for trying it!
Yes the bars are inverted- very comfortable and about 3 " narrower than stock.
 

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Really?!! Nice to hear. What brand is it?

If you have some left, you may want to shoot a piece of scrap metal and then spill some gas on it and see how it holds up. We've all had a pump nozzle spit gas on our tanks or a cap gasket weep gas on the side stand from splashing. A test like this will tell you how careful you have to be. Plus, it will tell us all if there is a decent rattle can paint we can use for budget sprucing up.

regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Folks,
Clubman bars don't hit the tank but slow speed turns are a nightmare:



The paint used was Duplicolor for the latest.

 

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Looks good. Didn't think those bars would hit the tank, but not worth arguing about. You can always pack out the steering stops if they are close.

Slow speed turns?? You are talking about walking alongside the bike in the garage, right?:D

Slow speed turns.... you're funny.

regards,
Rob
 

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Just went down to look at the can of Duplicolor engine black I have in the cabinet. Same stuff you have, Morris. Read the fine print and sure 'nuff. Says gas and oil resistent. Might just do a test myself to see just how resistent it really is.

regards,
Rob
 

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MORRISTHECAT - I notice that you have a can of TRUCK, VAN and SUV Clear. Did you clear coat the Tank? If yes, how did the clear go on? I’ve been told, don’t ever try to use Clear Coat. They say it’s impossible to get it on without a run. True??
Also if you did Clear Coat, did you wet sand it (1500 Grit) first?
I am having a bitch of a time painting my tank.
Bruce Houghton
 

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Discussion Starter #12
BHoughton said:
I notice that you have a can of TRUCK, VAN and SUV Clear
Bruce,
That paint is the color 'cherry'.
No clearcoat used.

Speaking of runs, a good trick to remove them is to wait till the paint starts to 'set', then loosely apply a strip of masking tape over the run.Then quickly zip strip the tape off and the run will lift!

Of course, another coat will be required to cover.
With a spray gun, I would over-reduce the mixture for a fine,light spray.

Ilike to paint on a bright sunny day and let the sun help to bake the paint.

BTW, am very pleased with the high-temp black, and may do the entire tank with it.
Good luck with yours!
 

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I would venture a guess that clear is thought to run easily because it is hard to see how much is on there until it's too late. I also tend to think that many try to get the coat to level out while they are shooting it and hence put on too much paint.

The beauty of clear is you can flat sand it when you are done and it will come out looking like glass. No dust, no imperfections at all. If you have some you cannot get out, just shoot another coat and sand it again.

I truly believe that clear coat made turned a lot of mediocre painters in to what folks perceive as superb painters. And in reality, it does not really matter how they arrive at the perfect paint job, does it?

regards,
Rob
 

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I have just wet sanded out the runs from the previous attempt(Dammed if I’m going to strip it down again, paint it, and wait another 7 days) and plan to use a few very light coats of the Black Engine Enamel.
Now Q. I have a can of Clear Engine Enamel. Should I wait 7 days and then wet Sand (1500 grit) the black before the Clear Coat, or put the Clear on, wait seven days and wet sand the clear?
Also, I real like the masking tape trick.
Bruce Houghton
 

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Discussion Starter #15
BHoughton,
Can't see how a clear coat will help, but you can try it and let us know ?
Should I wait 7 days
Yes I would wait that long- just don't let anyone touch it till' then!
 

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Here is what I have done. I wet sanded (1000 Grit) the previous coat (dried 7 days). Now, 5 very light coats of Black Engine Enamel (10 minutes between coats), then 4 very light of Clear Engine Enamel (10 minutes between coats). I will wait 7 days and wet sand (1500 Grit) hoping that the dam thing comes out reasonable. The weather is starting to get nice, so I want to be out there riding the dam thing.
Bruce Houghton
 

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Paint, Dam Paint. As I mention above, 5 light coats of Duplicolor Engine Enamel Black, 10 minute between coats, then 4 light coats of Diplicolor Engine Enamel clear. Again 10 minutes between coats. 7 days later, wet sanded with 1500 grit, buffed with Turtle Polishing Compound, then polished with Meguiars # 6. Came out smooth as glass. So much so, that I wished I had spent a little more time on the prep stage. I assembled the bike, which included mounting the front disk brake handle bar reservoir. Here it is.

Went down stairs the next morning, Disaster. The Front brake reservoir leak on the tank.
Right down to the bare metal. Oh well, at least now I know how to fix it, Right.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What a shame after all that work!
Look'n good too.

FWIW, my brakes are plumbed with dot5 synthetic, part of which is to prevent the problem you had.

Also saw a painted rim from a Silver Jubilee ruined from a similar accident.

I use braided stainlesss brake lines which eliminate the squish factor as some here have mentioned with synthetics.

Good luck with the fix!
 

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Dot5 Synthetic? Thanks for that. I used an old can of dot4 synthetic by Prestone. I will switch. I think I will just go to my local store and buy one of those small tubes of Duplicolor Scratch Fix 2in1. I'm not about to redo the tank now the the weather is good.
Thanks Again
Bruce Houghton
 

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if you switch, you MUST flush with what I beleive is called Mineral Sprists in the USA?
(meths here)

otherwise the fluid gets contaminated and won't work.
 
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