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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the '14 Thruxton in the garage for a few weeks and when I went in this weekend to take it out there was no power when I turned the key. I assumed it was a battery issue (it's not a new battery and occasionally I have to charge it a bit even in season) so I checked the connections and tightened everything. Still nothing. So I pulled out the tender and plugged in the pigtail. Immediately I heard a high pitched whine - the same noise that happens for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key, I think it's the fuel pump starting up? The battery tender showed that the battery was at storage level so no issues there. The noise stops when I unplug the tender or when I turn the key but still no power to the bike.

Nothing's happened to the bike since I last rode it a few weeks ago with no problems. It's probably time to replace the battery regardless but this sounds like something else going on. Any ideas?
 

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Whine must be fuel pump coming on. After being stored for weeks, likely needs to run longer to pressurize injector lines. Also, at low battery volts, pump does make more noise, runs slower. Don't expect startup volts until batt reaches a full charge. These bikes have a low voltage cutout "feature" that prevents starter operation below 12-ish volts. It can be bypassed in emergencies by manually closing the starter relay contacts. Putting a small hole in the plastic relay case, inserting a non conductive stick/rod to gently push the contacts will easily close the starter circuit. I had to do this when on a camping trip and no start in the cold morning Temps. Pulled the relay, popped the plastic case off with my Swiss army knife, determined where to best make the hole and bored it using a pick on the knife. Used a wood stick off the ground to push the contact...BAM, full start up! Make sure neutral is selected!
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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I'm assuming that this whine occurs when the charger is hooked up with the ignition off. Maybe I'm missing something here because the fuel pump is not going to be energized with the ignition switch off. Something is not right if the Tender showed float. After sitting for a few weeks the red charge light should go on even if it goes to 80% quickly and then to float. How old is the charger? Are you sure the whine is coming from the bike?
 

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Most chargers are the SMPS (Switched mode power supply) sort. In certain circumstances they can make an audible noise, perhaps a burst capacitor or a loose or broken ferrite transformer or coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whine must be fuel pump coming on. After being stored for weeks, likely needs to run longer to pressurize injector lines. Also, at low battery volts, pump does make more noise, runs slower. Don't expect startup volts until batt reaches a full charge. These bikes have a low voltage cutout "feature" that prevents starter operation below 12-ish volts. It can be bypassed in emergencies by manually closing the starter relay contacts. Putting a small hole in the plastic relay case, inserting a non conductive stick/rod to gently push the contacts will easily close the starter circuit. I had to do this when on a camping trip and no start in the cold morning Temps. Pulled the relay, popped the plastic case off with my Swiss army knife, determined where to best make the hole and bored it using a pick on the knife. Used a wood stick off the ground to push the contact...BAM, full start up! Make sure neutral is selected!
The whine is CONSTANT when the tender is plugged in. I left it for an hour and it was still going. I'm nervous to leave the tender plugged in overnight to see if the battery might actually need a charge. I've left it for MUCH longer plenty of times before and never had this issue, even when I'e come back to a dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Most chargers are the SMPS (Switched mode power supply) sort. In certain circumstances they can make an audible noise, perhaps a burst capacitor or a loose or broken ferrite transformer or coil.
The noise is definitely coming from the bike. Again, I think it's the sound of the fuel pump starting up that happens for a few seconds when you turn the ignition, except it is constant when the tender is attached and cuts out as soon as you turn the key. I've put it on the tender hundreds of ties and have never encountered this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm assuming that this whine occurs when the charger is hooked up with the ignition off. Maybe I'm missing something here because the fuel pump is not going to be energized with the ignition switch off. Something is not right if the Tender showed float. After sitting for a few weeks the red charge light should go on even if it goes to 80% quickly and then to float. How old is the charger? Are you sure the whine is coming from the bike?
The tender's only 5 or 6 years old max. It shows red for a few seconds when it's attached and then blinks green. But the whine is constant and 100% coming from the bike. I don't know how the fuel pump would be getting power if the ignition is off but it sure sounds like it is, but only with the tender attached.
 

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You should have the battery load tested at an auto parts store. I've only had Battery Tenders last 7yrs. Had one replaced under warranty. The whine coming from the fuel pump is really the pressure regulator, not the pump itself. Did you check the fuses?

When you say the sound goes off when you turn the key, do you mean turn ON the ignition with the charger still connected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You should have the battery load tested at an auto parts store. I've only had Battery Tenders last 7yrs. Had one replaced under warranty. The whine coming from the fuel pump is really the pressure regulator, not the pump itself. Did you check the fuses?

When you say the sound goes off when you turn the key, do you mean turn ON the ignition with the charger still connected?
Yes, the sound goes off completely when the key is turned and the tender connected with no power to the headlight or anything else. And yeah I checked all the fuses both in the box and at the battery. I'm still a little mystified how any electricity could be getting to the pressure regulator if the ignition is off which screams short to me but I'm a total novice when it comes to electric work.
 

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You are positive the main fuse is intact? This issue does seem to point to the ignition switch. Do you have a meter to test the battery voltage? You didn't leave the ignition on or set to PARK when you parked the bike? A Battery Tender can give a false positive or show full charge with a damaged battery. With a meter you could look for voltage with the switch on at various points such as the main fuse, kill switch, etc. What fuses do you have at the battery?

What about the alarm connector? Even if you don't have an installed alarm, there is a connector for it with a bypass loop of wire. If that is disconnected, no power to the bike.
 

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Def. should not be making noise if ignition is OFF and/or key out with just the tender connected. That right there is very odd. I assume the tender is wired direct to battery posts, not running through another circuit? Could be your ign switch is shorting out when in the off position....try WD40 squirted into its guts to clean it up a bit...wiggling key around good. Also, you do have some fuel in tank, no? Without it, pump will run on as it can't make system pressurized.
 

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Some things just hum sometimes, although I wouldn't expect that on 12 vdc.
 

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If it were me I'd firstly disconnect the battery from bike and attach charger direct to battery, if noise gone then move to second step of probably unplugging ignition from headlight bucket, connect battery to bike and charger
 

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My new-to-me 2018 T120 had the same high pitched whining sound ONLY when connected to a battery tender.

The previous owner did not tighten the battery terminals adequately, leaving poor connections on both positive and negative sides. After cleaning the terminals and fully tightening the battery terminals, the high pitched sound is gone with the battery tender connected.


The sound was coming from somewhere under the fuel tank, maybe from the regulator/rectifier or a capacitor sensing the battery tender's voltage sourced from the AC wall current. The sound was NOT the fuel pump operating, and was a very low level would not be heard with any background noise.

In summary-
CHECK THE CONNECTIONS when troubleshooting after someone works on your bike. :rolleyes:

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See- Does DC power have any frequency (50/60 hz) like AC?
A few people understand the reasoning... The "ripple" effect is found from a "DC" power sourced from the AC driven Battery Tender. This unsteady voltage is working it's way to a component that is not switched with the ignition key.
 

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I just gotta remark that you already knew you had a so-so battery, stored the bike for weeks, and didn’t have the tender already hooked up but waited until the battery died?
I’m not sure your tender will bring the battery back enough to be reliable.
 

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My two cents: You mention your battery is not new. Why not replace the battery and see what happens? If you’re going to be replacing it sooner or later…might as well see if that solves the problem?
 
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