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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Can anyone help with this issue I've been having with my RS? A few days ago I was low on fuel and thought the bike was stuttering so stopped at the nearest fuel station. I was about to fill up and I thought I'd treat the bike to some Texaco Supreme fuel for a change. Bike ran OK for a day or so then started to run a little rough. Next morning I'd ridden about 100 yards and it stopped and wouldn't start again. Wheeled it home and tried starting again but no luck. Electrics were all fine and battery seemed strong. Left it for half an hour then tried starting it again and it did and I managed about 30 yards before it stopped again. It started again a few times and ran for a few seconds before stopping. With me trying a different fuel I thought maybe it was a duff batch. I emptied the tank and flushed it and drained all the pipework but managed to break a fuel connector on the fuel pump and noticed the other one was cracked. I bought a used fuel pump and replaced the whole thing. Filled up with fresh fuel and recharged the battery then fired it up. It started and ran well and I left it running for a while to make sure all the old fuel would be flushed through. Put everything back together then ran it for a while again and everything was fine. Set off this morning and after a few minutes it died again and left me stranded in the middle of a very busy roundabout! Had a look round the bike for a bit hoping to find a cause then tried starting again and it did for a few seconds then nothing. Engine turns over fine but will not start.

Any ideas - please!

Thanks.
 

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Does the horn work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the horn work?
Yeah it's working. Everything electrical seems fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Grounds, relay, water in plug wells would be worth checking.
[/QUOTE
Fitted new plugs a couple of weeks ago and not been out in the rain since so they shouldn't be a problem. It really feels like a fuel issue as though the fuel injectors just stop injecting! Plus the fact the bike will start again if left a while seems to point to some sort of blockage. Totally confused how a bike can run for 10-15 minutes with regular throttle blipping then stop after half a mile 🙄. Thanks for the input by the way (y)
 

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^ ^ You mentioned stuttering before fueling - could you think of any other circumstance coinciding with stuttering before gas stop (turning, accelerating, bumpy road, stopping, bumping switches, shifting, etc.)?

If not, identify a reputable shop or parts house nearby that will load test battery for you - which may show decent voltage reading, but not present enough amps for coils to energize (a reason for electrical to work, but bike to not run reliably)?

Should battery not pass load test, also suspect charging system; monitor accordingly.

Clutch, neutral and kickstand switch cleaning may also help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^ ^ You mentioned stuttering before fueling - could you think of any other circumstance coinciding with stuttering before gas stop (turning, accelerating, bumpy road, stopping, bumping switches, shifting, etc.)?

If not, identify a reputable shop or parts house nearby that will load test battery for you - which may show decent voltage reading, but not present enough amps for coils to energize (a reason for electrical to work, but bike to not run reliably)?

Should battery not pass load test, also suspect charging system; monitor accordingly.

Clutch, neutral and kickstand switch cleaning may also help?
Funny you should mention the stuttering as it broke down in the exact spot where it first stuttered! Coincidence probably but weird. I was braking coming up to a roundabout when it stopped.

Battery is only a few months old so doubt it's that. Will be trying it with a spare battery in a bit. The clutch and sidestand switches have been checked and cleaned. Can the neutral switch cause something like this? Didn't think to check that.

One thing I forgot to mention; the engine management light came on this time. If/when I can get the bike back I'll use TuneECU to check it.
 

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Braking indicates some clutch (and shifter) use, double check clutch switch not installed "crooked" (i.e. not seated in its little area misaligned) - electrical may work, with false activation from being mis-seated.
Neutral switch a possibility as well.
Have seen new batteries fail, test to be sure not from bad battery manufacturing batch - and - no hidden charging issue by virtue of new battery?
Turning on roundabout could wiggle wires in headstock/ ignition switch areas - check wires from switch good - be sure harness wiring intact, no breaks, frays or tautness - squirt some WD40 in ignition switch, turn to all stops a few times for connectivity?
 

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OK... may or may not be the same - I've had the engine management light come on when my R/R got hot and turned itself off (which its designed to do to protect itself), and shortly after broke down as battery flat (would expect battery light to come on, but I think they detect voltage at alternator not at R/R). Either way, I'd fully charge the battery and see if still persists (although usually if charging fault, starter won't turn). Theres a thread here Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade on diagnosing this problem

Also another I posted a few weeks back elaborating on current loads Shindengen FH020AA reliability?

A quick in easy one while delving into other causes (fuel pump/pipe blockage?)
 

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The load test checks voltage, and more importantly, amp and battery recovery.
If battery bad (whether through manufacturing or charging issues), there may not be enough juice for coils - but other electrical will seem to work fine - giving impression not a battery issue.
I'd do a load test and double check RR details to move toward a solution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah thought it might be that but there was no hissing or any sign of a vacuum when I opened it. Anyway, managed to push the bike home - it's a heavy beast innit? Tried starting it and it fired up for all of 10 seconds then nothing. Fitted my old standby battery and it started and stayed started 😀. Just been for a ride and touch wood it seems to be cured. I don't understand how it's the battery though? They seem strange symptoms for a battery failure. The bike's always started first press in the mornings and the bike ran for 10mins+ yesterday. Thanks for all the help and suggestions (y). I registered on here a while ago but never got round to posting as I've had so many issues with the bike recently. I'll post a pic and intro in the newbs section later on. Thanks again guys.
 

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... don't understand how it's the battery though?
May not be. RR replaced recently possible issue, with charging faults concealed by swapping different fully charged/ new batteries.
Load test both batteries to determine if recovery, amp & voltage status all a go - if good - look to recent RR install charging properly - and - if any corrosion, wiring open or shorts anywhere?

Funny you should mention the stuttering as it broke down in the exact spot where it first stuttered! Coincidence probably but weird...
Or not coincidence? Were wires checked at headstock and ignition switch cleaned?
 

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Yeah thought it might be that but there was no hissing or any sign of a vacuum when I opened it. Anyway, managed to push the bike home - it's a heavy beast innit? Tried starting it and it fired up for all of 10 seconds then nothing. Fitted my old standby battery and it started and stayed started 😀. Just been for a ride and touch wood it seems to be cured. I don't understand how it's the battery though? They seem strange symptoms for a battery failure. The bike's always started first press in the mornings and the bike ran for 10mins+ yesterday. Thanks for all the help and suggestions (y). I registered on here a while ago but never got round to posting as I've had so many issues with the bike recently. I'll post a pic and intro in the newbs section later on. Thanks again guys.
As some of us have said, could be a R/R cutting out so your battery lost charge. Don't assume its "fixed".
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
🤬🤬🤬 Yes, you guessed it, it died again this morning! Where? Approaching a roundabout as usual about the same distance from home as the previous two times and the stuttering! Had another long run out last night including lots of roundabouts and it didn't miss a beat. Confused as hell. Nothing makes sense - if it was a bad connection etc. why would it fail in nearly the same place each time? I went over my same route several times last night and no issues.

Both batteries are holding their charge so don't think it's that.

Setting off to push it back home in a minute. Didn't check the code last night as the bike started straight away and ran OK. Will check it when I get the bike back.

Getting desperate now as the bike is my daily transport so going to have to look at a replacement this weekend as can't afford to take any more time off work.
 

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Can I make some suggestions? This is what I would do.

Instead of guessing what it could be, you need to take a systematic approach to finding the issue. 1st start with the basics.

1. Tilt sensor isn't malfunctioning. If the tilt switch is shorting it will cause the bike to die as it shuts fuel off.
2. Sidestand switch
3. Neutral Switch
4. Clutch switch (although this would not cause the bike to die, it would prevent starting only)
5. Fuse Box and relay box, check that your fuses/ relays associated with fuel delivery are seating/ functioning correctly, there isn't any loose cables or wires that are causing intermittent connections. Also check for corrosion, and water ingress

If all those sensors/assemblies work fine, then you need stage 2

6. Check that the fuel tank isn't getting vapour lock, there will be some small pipe connections that seem to go to the air at the bottom of the tank, sometimes these get filled up with corrosion and crud, in some instances this can cause the fuel pump to work against a too high vacuum in the tank causing vapour lock and the fuel wont flow correctly even if the pump is running, you need to ensure these are clear and free flowing

7. Check the fuel pressure regulator isnt blocked, or malfunctioning

If these items are fine then its to the next stage 3

8. Take a fuel pressure reading using a gauge, you should be getting around 30 psi, if its below that then your pump is weak, or you have some other form of internal fuel leak inside the fuel pump assembly that sits inside the tank and fuel.

9. On loop fuel systems, check that the a) return line is free of blockages b) the fuel rail is clear c) the fuel delivery line is clear by disassembling and checking the pipes using compressed air (remove the fuel injectors from the rail beforehand)

10. Ensure that any recent work carried out on the fuel system is re-checked even if it was done a few months beforehand, its not uncommon for the wrong o ring to be used and it becomes squashed and ends up inside the connector stopping fuel flow.

After this then you are looking at

Checking the electrical system that runs the fuel delivery and metering network, mostly earthing points that are shared. So for example you want to check the common earth for the fuel injectors and pump. Triumph are known for their awful wiring harnesses, i can vouch for that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Can I make some suggestions? This is what I would do.

Instead of guessing what it could be, you need to take a systematic approach to finding the issue. 1st start with the basics.

1. Tilt sensor isn't malfunctioning. If the tilt switch is shorting it will cause the bike to die as it shuts fuel off.
2. Sidestand switch
3. Neutral Switch
4. Clutch switch (although this would not cause the bike to die, it would prevent starting only)
5. Fuse Box and relay box, check that your fuses/ relays associated with fuel delivery are seating/ functioning correctly, there isn't any loose cables or wires that are causing intermittent connections. Also check for corrosion, and water ingress

If all those sensors/assemblies work fine, then you need stage 2

6. Check that the fuel tank isn't getting vapour lock, there will be some small pipe connections that seem to go to the air at the bottom of the tank, sometimes these get filled up with corrosion and crud, in some instances this can cause the fuel pump to work against a too high vacuum in the tank causing vapour lock and the fuel wont flow correctly even if the pump is running, you need to ensure these are clear and free flowing

7. Check the fuel pressure regulator isnt blocked, or malfunctioning

If these items are fine then its to the next stage 3

8. Take a fuel pressure reading using a gauge, you should be getting around 30 psi, if its below that then your pump is weak, or you have some other form of internal fuel leak inside the fuel pump assembly that sits inside the tank and fuel.

9. On loop fuel systems, check that the a) return line is free of blockages b) the fuel rail is clear c) the fuel delivery line is clear by disassembling and checking the pipes using compressed air (remove the fuel injectors from the rail beforehand)

10. Ensure that any recent work carried out on the fuel system is re-checked even if it was done a few months beforehand, its not uncommon for the wrong o ring to be used and it becomes squashed and ends up inside the connector stopping fuel flow.

After this then you are looking at

Checking the electrical system that runs the fuel delivery and metering network, mostly earthing points that are shared. So for example you want to check the common earth for the fuel injectors and pump. Triumph are known for their awful wiring harnesses, i can vouch for that!
Thanks for that (y). Bike is back now so will work my way through your list. Whereabouts is the Tilt sensor?
 

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Thanks for that (y). Bike is back now so will work my way through your list. Whereabouts is the Tilt sensor?
First and quickest thing you can do is check RR and battery voltage under load with a multimeter as several of us have suggested as that seems to tie in with the behaviour you describe. Up to you.
 

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Hi All,

Can anyone help with this issue I've been having with my RS? A few days ago I was low on fuel and thought the bike was stuttering so stopped at the nearest fuel station. I was about to fill up and I thought I'd treat the bike to some Texaco Supreme fuel for a change. Bike ran OK for a day or so then started to run a little rough. Next morning I'd ridden about 100 yards and it stopped and wouldn't start again. Wheeled it home and tried starting again but no luck. Electrics were all fine and battery seemed strong. Left it for half an hour then tried starting it again and it did and I managed about 30 yards before it stopped again. It started again a few times and ran for a few seconds before stopping. With me trying a different fuel I thought maybe it was a duff batch. I emptied the tank and flushed it and drained all the pipework but managed to break a fuel connector on the fuel pump and noticed the other one was cracked. I bought a used fuel pump and replaced the whole thing. Filled up with fresh fuel and recharged the battery then fired it up. It started and ran well and I left it running for a while to make sure all the old fuel would be flushed through. Put everything back together then ran it for a while again and everything was fine. Set off this morning and after a few minutes it died again and left me stranded in the middle of a very busy roundabout! Had a look round the bike for a bit hoping to find a cause then tried starting again and it did for a few seconds then nothing. Engine turns over fine but will not start.

Any ideas - please!

Thanks.
I don't know why this hasn't been suggested until now, but it sounds like your crank angle sensor/pick-up coil. Take the bike out, but not far and have a spark plug in your pocket. When it dies, immediately look at the tachometer while the engine is still turning and you are coasting to a stop with the clutch still engaged. Has the RPM dropped to zero? If so, it is either the coil or the igniter. Next, pull one of the HT leads, insert your spare plug and ground it to the engine. Try starting it, are you getting a spark? If not, then it is likely the coil or igniter. Ask me how I know this!
It doesn't sound like the charging system if the battery is turning the starter over and if you are getting lights it probably isn't the ignition switch.
This is usually heat sensitive too i.e. once the engine cools it will start again only to fail once it heats up.
 
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