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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,
So first off here is a little background information. I bought a 2009 savage title Bonneville from crashedtoys. It had been layed down on its right side. The mechanic that checks the bikes out for QCSA said that the bike started when you jumped the relay... I took his word for it, and after reading the posts here on bonnie relays , I ordered a new relay. I also ordered a stator cover from a speedmaster as the cover was cracked. Stator came first so I replaced it. The relay came in a few days later switched it out and no go.

Then I realized that I had no headlight. I had already checked the fuses so I cracked the headlight housing and I found this.


What is this? Light switch bypass?
When the the top two wires connect (White and Beige I believe) the headlight turns on... even if the key is not in the ignition. (happened by accident). I do have juice in the battery but but the meter reads right at 12 volts at the battery terminals so it might not be enough juice to get it going.

Help me out I want this old girl to run.
What are these cut wires in the headlight housing?
Is there a tip over sensor I need to check?

What do i do?

:eek:
 

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Those are the ignition key-switch wires - looks like they have been cut off from the actual switch in order to 'hot-wire' it.
Is the actual key-switch still there, or was it completely removed?
Best best is to get a replacement switch with key - used if you can find one.

You will not get lights nor start without that switch completing the circuit.

I'll PM you with which wires to connect in order to get it to run - look for that in a few minutes in your PM box
Although it's not hard to figure out, just as soon not post that info on public forum
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!

That makes sense.I don't think the bike was listed as a theft recovery but I guess it was. Key and Ignition are still present but at this point I'm not sure if it is the actual key for this bikes ignition. Do you think it is worth the time to rewire the ignition and see?

pm me
 

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If the key you have fits & turns the switch to on position, then simply re-connect the wires together and try it. Be careful that wires are not exposed to touch the headlight casing - see PM for which wires are 'HOT'. It's quite possible (likely even) that the live wires may have blown (or will blow) the fuses if left exposed.

Couple of notes once you either have switch reconnected or bypassed per PM:

Once ignition circuit is complete, you should get Neutral light on (Kill switch must be set to 'Run');
With bike in neutral, you should be able to just press the start button;
If not, both the side-stand must be raised and the clutch must be pulled.

You mention changing the relay - probably nothing wrong with original; the start relay is common for both the headlight and starter - in the normally-closed (un-energized) state, connects power to headlight; when energized, transfers power to the starter while cutting it from the headlight (to give peak voltage/current available for starting).
Of course without the key-switch circuits being made, neither would work

p.s. Don't leave that headlight dangling just off the connector! Pull the plug off and put headlight aside. :D

Kepp us posted on your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info DEcosse

I reconnected everything as per your PM and nothing. My battery may be a bit low but I think it still should turn over even at 12V my key fits and it turns in the ignition, so I am going to reconnect everything in the ignition, but first I wish I could get it to run!

(headlight is now disconnected... I was holding it in the picture.)

If anyone has any ideas let me know.

Drop testing?
Where should I start?
 

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Did you check those fuses, 2 & 5? Also Fuse 11 which is the main fuse.
When you say you got nothing - no lights, indicator lamps etc?
When you connected the wires together as indicated, did you measure the battery volts at that point?
With headlight power enabled, possible that battery sagged to extremely low level.
If battery volts remained at 12V, check the three fuses;
if it has sagged to low level, change the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep I blew them :D, so now they have been replaced, I gave the battery a charge and I tried again, side stand up, neutral light on clutch and break engaged... this time I get an audible Click sound from the left side of the bike.
solenoid?

Also my headlight is on even if the kill switch is on? did I miss something with the hot wire?
 

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Headlight will be on as soon as the keyswitch is made and Kill switch only kills ignition circuit, not the headlight - i.e with your hot wire the headlight indeed will be on.
The headlight should go out when you press the start button, and the starter should engage.
Does headlight go out if you press & hold start button?
No need to have stand up or pull clutch as long as neutral light on
Put original starter relay back in and try again
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is The problem in my power circuit? how do I check it?

If you hear the relay 'click' it appears that the control circuit is most likely working and your problem is in the 'power' circuit.
Here is simplified schematic for you.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep all wires connected as per PM. High beam and low beam both work.

Thanks by the way!

Its people like you that make this site Awesome!
 

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Good use of the search to find that simplified schematic I created!


So - what is odd is that you say you hear the relay click, yet clearly the start/headlight relay is not changing state i.e. the lights not going off, nor is the starter solenoid engaging.

Confirm that there are no other wiring changes that have been done to try to bypass things
Pull the relay and headlight should go out - can you confirm?
That will validate that power is getting all the way to the relay on the power circuit and is being completed by the normally-closed contacts of the relay.
If that is indeed validated, then you need to follow the 'control' loop to find why the relay is not switching on and hence switching state.
If neutral lamp is indeed on it confirms that circuit is at least complete through Fuse 5, Key-Switch, Run Switch and Alarm Bypass - that voltage then directly feeds the input side of the starter switch and from there to the starter/headlight relay;
Pull the relay and see if you get 12V (with respect to battery negative) on the connector pin with the white/red wire when you press the start button;
With relay pulled also see if you measure 12V when you measure between battery POSITIVE and the connector pin with the Black/Pink wire.

Incidentally, with the headlight on, what is the voltage measured across the battery?

Note that to switch the relay it needs to have BOTH the positive power on the white/red and ALSO 'ground':
- the latter should be provided through the diode assembly either
a) directly via the neutral switch
or
b) through the clutch switch AND the side-stand switch
 
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