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G'day folks.

I just purchased a (UNICORN) 2014 Triumph Scrambler with a genuine 600klm's on it. Its the silver/red combo and came with the following accesories fitted from brand new: Full Arrow system, R&G crash knobs, Triumph grab rail. Have been looking for one of these for a while and when this came up i had to jump on it. They sell fast here in AUS and 600klms??? INSANE.

Anyways, just got it Roadworthied and registered. When i picked it up from the seller he said it had low fuel so i filled it up straight away with 98. While riding it home it cut out on me 5 times (NOT FUN GOING 80 IN THE RIGHT LANE) id hit the start and it would start up straight away.
I limped it home running like a pig and ran it in the garage for a while. Went for another ride and it was better so i assumed old fuel had passed through.

Today i got a new battery for it just in case and its still cutting out/not running. But if i took it for a ride it would cut out a couple times then come good, ANY IDEAS? It was in storage for years i believe.

HELP APPRECIATED.
 

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Welcome to the Scrambler world, Duke13, and the forum. You'll find a ton of good stuff here. You have a very nice looking bike. She looks well cared for, so my first thought is fuel.

Was is stored with fuel in it for several years? That could lead to a number of issues - less volatile/unvolatile gas, only saved by you mixing it with fresh go juice. Clogged injectors, clogged fuel lines, corrosion on the spark plugs, corrosion in the cylinder themselves, corrosion on the wires, simple loose connections at important points.

At this point check the bike over for corrosion on loose wiring connections. I assume the battery connections are all good since you just replaced it. You'll have to open the headlight bezel to check some of the connections there. Pull the plugs and check their condition. (When was the last oil change?). If everything looks good, try to run the full tank of new gas through it, then refill and note if the issue still occurs. Also, contact the last owner and ask if the Arrow tune was loaded into the ECU. I'm still seeing O2 sensors and the SAIS, so like you said is probably came from the dealer this way and the tune should have been loaded. But worth checking.

Enjoy the bike, brother. What are your plans for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks
[email protected]
appreciate it mate. I have receipts for the Arrow map being loaded by dealer.

Lots of plans already lol have been doing a lot of research. Have already added an engine guard, tail tidy, re-useable air filter, velocity stack intake. Have ordered a Tuneecu cable and will eventually get a TTP tune with 02 and AI removal. Wantinf different mirrors, seat, suspension........so much to change on these things.
 

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Hi Duke nice to see another Aus on the forum. I to has some stalling issues with my MY14 T100 found the T/B out of sync and idle set too low, also have found that the 865 engine with a tune hates our 98 in aust, may I suggest the following, get yourself Tune ecu and cable, resync the Throttle bodies, bring warm idle up to 1100 rpm or even 1200 and run 95 or even 91 in it. My T100 is a 360 crank engine and I run 91 fine ( they are designed for 91E10 ). There are a heap of little tweeks to get them to run great but the big one is to make sure your tune suits your pipes, I have TORS on mine and had to stuff around to get the right tune.
 

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First up, @Duke13 good buying.

I can see from the photo that the Arrow exhaust on your bike has been fitted incorrectly. It’s a common mistake and seems to have happened to around 10% of bikes for some inexplicable reason - even the one David Beckham rode in Brazil was done that way. The header pipes are meant to cross over, as per the photo below. It’s hard to tell from your photo but I wouldn’t mind betting that the O2 sensors have been mixed up as a result. The sensor in the RH pipe should have a bit of red tape around the lead. If these are mixed up that could well be the cause of your running problem.

If they are mixed up you can just swap them over but you really should refit the exhaust correctly in any case and then make sure the O2 sensors are correctly inserted in the correct pipe. Unfortunately correctly mounting the exhaust isn’t quite as straight forward as it perhaps looks, so get someone who knows these bikes to do it or help you if you‘re uncertain.

FA9C9574-8EA4-40E9-97A0-C1B18243FA28.jpeg


Another thing that can make these bikes run a bit erratically is if you cold start without using the fast idle. Every time you start the bike but especially when the engine’s cold (even in summer) it is important, I’d say essential, to pull the fast idle (looks like a choke) out 2 clicks for starting then push in one click to let it run for a few seconds, then all the way in to ride. It really makes a huge difference.

i also agree with the advice of others about not using 98 - 95 is better. Also make sure the Arrow tune was loaded.

Let us know how you go.
 

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Not really to do with fuel, more so smoother at idle and less prone to stalling cold. I am not a fan of the fast idle button so mine is set to just tic over cold on start. our fuel grades in australia are different our 91 is RON not MON or AKI rated so our 98 is sought of the same as your 91 but our fuel companys put heaps of additives that can up set bikes, I had a Ducati 749S and it hated our 98 I was advised to run 91 it it and never had an issue.
 

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Well spotted Canberra R3 about the pipes from my understanding of the tune set up on My T100 having the O2 wiring swapped over would send the closed loop function crazy.(y)(y)
 

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Not using the fast idle on start up is asking for problems. Triumph recommend it and every knowledgeable mechanic will tell you’re nuts not to use it. My experience at a Triumph dealership over many years proved it time and again. It’s not a question of being a fan or not. Use it and see for yourself.
 

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Interesting comment on using 91 fuel. I used 91 in my Rocket and it seemed to run better, certainly no worse, and never failed to start. The 2.3 engine had quite low compression so premium fuel was just a waste of money. In fact, with a 24 litre tank I saved around $3 a tank, which I put in a jar. Bought a jacket and some gloves with what I‘d saved over a year. Maybe some of the high revving Triumph triples benefit from/ need 98 but by and large 95 and even 91 is all the twin cylinder engines need.
 

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I have heard horror stories of engines failing during cold start due to the bike being on an angle and if the oil level was slightly low the pump drive failed and the engine seized, I dont know if its true but its always stick in my head . The Ecu on the air cool triumph was also used by ducati on the 749/999 superbikes and as it was an early type of unit it has no ability to control idle speed ( insufficient drivers on the main board Im told) so ducati used a cable system for cold start. this was done to raise exhaust temp high enough to get the Cats to light off within the prescribed time to get emissions certification for road use. putting 2 and 2 together it would be prudent for Triumph to recommend (especially in California) the use of the fast idle to get the catconverers up to temp asap. Thats My thinking and anyway.
 

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Nice pic of your bike Canberra R3, Brinderbellas I asume I grew up in canberra and rode stromlo when it was a bike track in the 70s
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Duke nice to see another Aus on the forum. I to has some stalling issues with my MY14 T100 found the T/B out of sync and idle set too low, also have found that the 865 engine with a tune hates our 98 in aust, may I suggest the following, get yourself Tune ecu and cable, resync the Throttle bodies, bring warm idle up to 1100 rpm or even 1200 and run 95 or even 91 in it. My T100 is a 360 crank engine and I run 91 fine ( they are designed for 91E10 ). There are a heap of little tweeks to get them to run great but the big one is to make sure your tune suits your pipes, I have TORS on mine and had to stuff around to get the right tune.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. When my ECU cable arrives, how do i sync throttle bodies?
 

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With only 600 km I’d be very surprised if the throttle bodies are out of sync at all and certainly not to extent that could cause the problem you have. Not saying you shouldn’t check them, and they could be out a little, but I suspect your problem lays elsewhere.
 

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Check the charging system, the charging system on the twins is borderline at best, the ecu needs to see 12.8v otherwise it shuts down, at rpm above about 3000 the reg/rec voltage drops below 13v so what can happen is as you ride along there isn't enough charging current to maintain the battery, then when you hit the brakes the brake light draws enough current to drop the battery voltage below the ecu threshold and the bike cuts out, but when you release the brake there is enough voltage to restart the bike and it runs OK again.

The solution is a mosfet reg/rec conversion, lots of info on here about it.
 

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Check the sidestand switch, these have been a niggle from back in 2000. The plunger can become stuck; peel back the rubber boot , clean and grease, or the switch can be loose on the mountings, the torx fasteners are awkward to tighten, use the torx bit and a small spanner.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so a quick update. When i start the bike with the choke out its starts bu then just cuts out. But when i start it with the choke all the way in it runs. New battery when running on no choke is at 12.8v.
 
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