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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think the front axle takes a 19mm hex bit, but the axle is STUCK. I had the tires changed couple of months back at the dealer, but I need to remove the front end to change out the steering bearings. No happiness.

1) 19mm hex bit correct?

2) Is the axle threaded normal RH or abi-normal LH? I don't want to go ape-sheets on it, if it is tread ax-backwards.

Help! Today is my day to work on it and I'm stuck right out of the gate!

TIA,

Dan
 

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You've got to tell us if OnD was right. There is an embarrassed face smiley you can use if necessary.:Dang:

Otherwise, I had a similar problem on my front end. The bolt was nasty tight because it had seized somehow. It is a normal RH thread but you may want to put some sort of penetrant into it before trying again. Diesel works really well or just a WD-40 type spray may do the trick. When you put it back together make sure you grease the whole shaft including the thread as it does see some pretty harsh conditions that close to the road and needs all the protection it can get. The pinch bolts will prevent it loosening if torqued correctly.
 

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It gets torqued to 140 ft/lbs so it could just be super tight like the rear nut. Get a breaker bar and put it on. It is threaded normal too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It gets torqued to 140 ft/lbs so it could just be super tight like the rear nut. Get a breaker bar and put it on. It is threaded normal too.
Thanks. I got the job done without removing the axle bolt. I just dropped the front end in one piece. Bottom tapered bearings were dry as a bone. Upper was fine. Bought this bike used. Didn't know anything about its maintenance. New bearing and a proper lube should keep it going.

I'll try harder next time with the breaker bar now that I know it is RH thread. Thanks, again.
 

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Several of us have had good service from AllBalls. In spite of the name, they have all types of bearings.

http://www.goallballs.com/home.asp

Since you need to replace the dry one, why not do both?

I suggest a waterproof grease such as Bel Ray.

When you are ready to tackle the axle nut again, a last ditch effort would be a rattle gun, a good fitting piece of allen stock, and a six point socket. If you are considering some heat, just be careful because of the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Several of us have had good service from AllBalls. In spite of the name, they have all types of bearings.

http://www.goallballs.com/home.asp

Since you need to replace the dry one, why not do both?
I inspected the upper sealed bearing and it was fine. I did dab a bit of new grease on it where it was thin and resealed it. I have a new upper bearing in case of future problem.
 

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My front axle was so tight...

I had to have both my kids sit on the back of the bike so I wouldn't flip the bike over frontwards when I busted that bad boy loose!

My front axle was so tight...

I left a right boot print in the concrete floor after I broke it free!

My front axle was so tight...

I made sure I my feet were in a North-South arrangement, so I wouldn't change the rotation of the Earth!

My front axle was so tight...

:)
 

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140 lb/ft? ***?

I'll grant you it is a large screw thread and all but, it isn't really holding anything. Shoulder on the hex side goes against a bearing or a spacer, on the thread side, a spacer is pulled against the inner race of the wheel bearings. Inside the wheel is another spacer that makes sure the bearings aren't loaded laterally. Pinch bolts keep it from backing off.

Both my Blackbird and a BMW R1200RT, with very similar axle arrangements called for 37 lb/ft of torque on the axle. 140 just sounds insane, even in N/m, which would be 103 lb/ft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
140 lb/ft? ***?

I'll grant you it is a large screw thread and all but, it isn't really holding anything. Shoulder on the hex side goes against a bearing or a spacer, on the thread side, a spacer is pulled against the inner race of the wheel bearings. Inside the wheel is another spacer that makes sure the bearings aren't loaded laterally. Pinch bolts keep it from backing off.

Both my Blackbird and a BMW R1200RT, with very similar axle arrangements called for 37 lb/ft of torque on the axle. 140 just sounds insane, even in N/m, which would be 103 lb/ft.
Agreed. Looking at my handy-dandy Triumph service manual:

Front axle: 61 Nm
Rear axle nut: 146 Nm (this is on the single sided swing arm)
 

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OK, 45 lb/ft, that makes sense.

I can see the rear axle flange nut being this tight, different job. It made zero sense to me on the front axle.
 

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The torque on the Sprint is similar to those you mention, I believe. I converted the N-m to ft.-lbs. for the front axle and recall it came to somewhere between 40-45. When I looked through the factory manual the other day at torques (yes, I'm sick :D), there are only a couple items that get torqued in the 100+ ft.-lbs. range. The rear wheel and the front sprocket on the counterbalance shaft are two I recall.

Sasha
 
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