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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Doh! Tried removing the anti-tamper plugs to get to the idle mixture screws and ended up breaking the cast aluminum sleeve that houses the needle. I assume this is something that can't be fixed. Anyone know where I can get a replacement without breaking the bank?
 

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So it broke clear up into a critical area, not just around the bottom of the casting?

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So it broke clear up into a critical area, not just around the bottom of the casting?
All the way up to the top of the tube, where it attaches to the main body of the carb. There may be one thread left at most. Just can't believe it. The thing snapped like a pretzel stick.

I'm having no luck at all finding a single replacement carb, if it's even possible to do this. OEM replacement for the complete set is ridiculously priced. I could get a set of racing carbs for about 1/3 the price.

Thank goodness SCC's made me a great offer on his old set, that may well be the route I'll take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again SCC. Very impressed with Bill and John at Capitol Triumph. I'll definitely contact them if I run into any problems and for a tune up once I get them on.

What size pilots and mains did you say are in the carbs? 45/140's??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got the carbs on, thanks SCC.

Bike started right up and runs great at idle and low RPM's. Starts to sputter when I get on the gas and at high RPMs though. I did not do the airbox mod so I assume I'm running way too rich (45/152.5) for my current setup.

Chances are I won't get around to doing the airbox modification and installing the cone filters until the spring, so a couple questions...

Would removing the shims from the needles help?

Would it make sense to use the factory main jets (110's?) with the 45 pilots?
 

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try turning the mixture screws in all the way, that'll lean up the idle-1/4 throttle richness, but those pilots will probably be too big, at least try with the mixture screw before ditching them, but you'll probably have to go to the 42 pilots.

I'd leave one shim on to see how it runs but maybe you'll have to go down to no shims.

The mains will definately have to get smaller.
 

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Glad to hear you got the carb's mounted up ok, merry christmas!

Before you go changing any setting's on the carbs, remove your snorkel completely. This probably wont be enough to compensate for the jetting thats in the carbs, just try it and see if you get a positive end result.

Provided you do, and I'm sure you will...you'll want to get that airbox out of there and taken care of prior to spring so she will be ready to roll :)


Colder weather is coming :( This would be a good opprortunity to take some time and work on that airbox. If you want some help man let me know....we'll set something up where we can get together and wrench on it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweat & SCC, thanks for the tips. I removed the snorkel and took the bike to work yesterday. It ran much much better. I was a little chillier out and drier which may have helped a little too. The bike feels really good at low RPM's, very smooth and pulls harder than it did with the original carbs. Starts to fall off as the RPM's build but isn't cutting out like it did on Tues with the snorkel in. It's ridable now if the weather stays cold.

Bottom line, as you say SCC, the airbox has to come out. If we get a cold spell I'll get the bike indoors somewhere and have at it.
 
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