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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to the forum and just want to make sure that I am at the right place before I start posting info that none of you want to see.

I have just recently acquired a basket case bike.

It is was a custom job that someone never finished.

I think I have identified everything correctly and was looking to see if anyone could confirm what I have found

I am pretty sure it is a 1971 Trophy Sport 650 Engine
Ser# BE 12457, with the TR6R stamped on it also.

I think it was built at the Meriden Factory and I also found other info saying something about it being from a scrambler?

Anyway, hello again to all and let me know if I am in the right place and if anyone has any clue if I have identified this engine right.

I plan to due a restore (to custom) no stock parts other than engine forks and tires. If I am in the right place I will have a bunch more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First set of Questions

1. Carb.

This engine has a Amal 930 (Concentric) on it, (there is also another marking R300) stamped above the 930.

Is this the right carb for this engine, if not, will this one work?
What does the R300 mean?

The fuel system is all gummed up, bike has been sitting, I am getting it cleaned out but I ripped the rubber tip on the float needle.

2. Where is a good place to get or order parts from? I am in Southeastern NC if that helps.

3. Can the dealers help with getting parts for the older bikes?

4. I need to get a manual, Is the Haynes manual good or is there another one you would recommend.

I will stop here for now, just so I can keep all my questions straight.

Thanks for the help and I welcome anyone else to jump in with their view and ideas.
 

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Revok - that is the correct carb. The R300 is the "right side" carb

I recommend Berryman's Chem-Dip in the 1-gallon can. USE ONLY OUTDOORS with a fan blowing the fumes away from you. Maybe even wear cheap old coveralls or clothes you don't care for, as they will reek to high heaven when you are done. My wyfe doesn't even let me in the house after I've been working on carbs until I've changed my clothes! Use rubber gloves, too; that stuff is NASTY (but it works better than anything else out there)

Soak all METALLIC carb parts for 1/2 hour, then drain, and rinse REALLY well with clean water, repeatedly, then blast dry with compressed air.

All of the manuals are okay, along with help from online forums like this one. As far as I know, your bike will be covered under the multi-year manual with no misinformation in any of the printings out there. I recommend "Kim the CD Man" Triumph CD set that has every publication ever printed for Triumphs. You will also need a parts numbers book to go with the manual, if you don't have the CDs.

There are a couple of vendors that advertise on here, that sell Triumph spares, I do as well. Parts are readily available, and the current exchange rate is favoring the dollar.
 

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I don't know of any of the "new" Triumph dealers that support the old bikes. They are a different company. There are some shops scattered about that specialize in the older bikes but they aren't part of a dealer network and aren't backed by the Triumph factory. Parts shouldn't be a problem as there are many places where you can get them. Do a search of this forum and you'll come up with several to choose from or you can do like me and spread it around to several of them. Welcome to the forum.
 

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Hi Revok, and welcome to the group...I agree with Jimmy, if you want to save money, you need to use Ebay, and about half a dozen parts suppliers.....You'll have to update us with photos as you progress.....

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good News/Bad News

:3dcool::3dcool:Well,

Spent half the day tinkering in the garage on my new project. It may not be as bad as I thought.

When I brought the bike home I was concerned because I could not get the kicker to engage nor get the pistons to move.

Once I got the cover off the side I found out why, the key on the clutch shaft was broke, the kicker and shaft all appear to be good.

The bad news is (not sure how bad yet) the outer clutch cover was just hanging loose. The threads on the shaft appear to be fine and the nut and washer are still in the cover, not sure if it just came off or if there may be another problem. (explained why the kicker would not move the pistons). Primary drive chain and everything else in side looks good so far.

Good News, the pistons move with very little effort, and I believe the valves are opening and closing also. Very little grime on the inside of the case.

Next Question
I know that stock the bikes had a positive ground, this one appears to have been set up with a negative as the ground. Will this damage any of the components?

This bike is bare bones, Headlight, taillight, Accel ignition coil and the engine electrical. My limited knowledge would lead me to believe that it would work either way, but I figure one of you will know for sure.

I just want to thank all of you for the answers you have already provided. This seems like the place for answers and to share a passion for bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
RC Here are some more pics

T100RC, Here are a few more pics of what I have.

It is a Denver Frame, Stock forks and wheels, semi-coffin shaped tank and some handmade parts and components put together. I can imagine that it will look pretty good when I am done.
 

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that is a really sharp frame and the makings of a really hot vintage style chop! Very much like my father's shop was building back in the early '70s. (except they usually used either handbuilt frames or Amens and most had Durfee girders - I tend to like the short hydraulic front end 'bobber' look better) Keep us posted as you make progress ...
 
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