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Discussion Starter #1
Hello and thanks for having me. This is my first post and thread started. I'm a member of a similar forum for VAG vehicle owners. The help and knowledge i have discovered there (as well as supplying some help an knowledge to others) has been great. As the proud owner of a mint T595 Daytona in black i thought i'd join a Trumpy forum too.
Now the alternate motive..............
Last summer my bike decided to develop an extreme idle pattern. She has never stalled on me but will idle anywhere between normal (1200rpm) and 4500rpm. I suspected cable sticking, but no freeing up or blipping of the throttle cable made a difference. I had the tank off and found the FPR pipe was split, so this was replaced with 4mm ID silicone hose. I rebuilt her and expected it to be a problem rectified. sadly not:(

Any assistance would be welcomed greatly.

Dan
 

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Welcome Dan!
One quick moderator note before getting to the problem - if you could revisit your UserCP Profile & fill in your bike year/model e.g. 98 Daytona (or as appropriate), that will serve as an instant identifier under your name in the left margin going forward, to save having to re0dentify that every time in future.

Common issue with that vintage is an erratic idle.
Problem is with the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) - sometimes can be the valve itself but often the hoses to the Throttle bodies can be cracked & leaking.
Inspect the hoses really well, replace them if/as necessary and ultimately replace the valve if need be. I've heard of try to clean it but I would say with a 10 yr plus component, may as well replace it - similar might be best advice for the hoses.

Note particularly the location of the three hoses that feed the throttle bodies!








Another notorious issue you should familairize yourself with regarding your model is the 'ground block' or 'earth block'. That is a common grounding point that is where all the return wires come together in a plastic block down by the battery area. The original was subject to recall - a couple of times. Original was white so if yours still is, it has never been replaced - and should be!
Do a search on those terms in the Daytona Deliberations forum - but here's a good thread with several pictures that will help you identify that.
Also the latest/best iteration should have a second wire on the ground post that leads directly to the block.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your swift assistance is much appreciated. I shall endevour to get my lazy ass into gear and replace ALL vac piping with my 4mm ID silicone hose. All other pointers will to be examined. Out of interest: is the replacement of the IACV valve a difficult task and is it worth getting an OBD reading?
 

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One last (stupid???) question before i go to bed:

Is there anyway of manually testing the valve (ie pressure check/vac check etc). please don't tell me i have missed it on the link provided cos i'll feel a right tit!

Thanks for a good link though- exploded diagram will come in very handy.

Dan
 

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I'd don;t personally know of a way to test it. I think all you can do is just clean & lube the olunger assmbly and see if it helps.
There is also an o ring (you can see in the exploded view) that seals it in the housing as well as the hoses which could be sources of leaks. I would say just eliminate those as source of problem before investing in IACV - it's more than I expected, $120 - yikes!

Another good reference to keep handy is http://www.triumph-ant.co.uk Sandy is the World's largest Triumph breaker - all he does is Triumphs. I have visited him at his shop in South Wales (my company has a UK facility that is not that far away) - very straight guy.
So if you ever need any used parts, try him.
 

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footlong, Welcome to the forum.

A quick test of the IACV is to feel if it moves when the key is first turned on...same time the fuel pump primes. Along with DEcosse's info, check that the two screws that mount the IACV to the vacuum manifold are tight. A quick test for a vacuum leak to the throttle bodies is to remove the hose to the manifold and slowly block it with your finger. The engine should lose RPM and stall before the inlet is compleately blocked off.

Throttle bodies that aren't sync'd can cause a high, an erratic or a hunting idle.

In case you don't know, the IAC is located on the right rear of the engine and has a large diameter hose connecting it to the air box. The earth block is usually located to the right of the battery, may be blue (preferred) or white (pre recall) and wrapped with foam.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cheers chaps/chapesses.

I've checked my earth block- it's blue. so that seems to be ok in the first instance. Next job is to try to service that valve.
Typically, the British winter is crap and destroying my motivation.:rolleyes:


Thanks for making me welcome too.

Dan
 

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Cheers chaps/chapesses.

I've checked my earth block- it's blue. so that seems to be ok in the first instance. ...
One more check beyond 'blue' Dan ..... (there were two iterations of 'blue' replacement.
Does it have the additional wire on the -ve terminal? (which leads to the block)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i shall check and get back to you. Also, seeing as my problem is now your problem- i'll keep you current with my progress.:)
 

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newby

hi guys im new here
just bought a t595 that wont start guy i got it off said he rode it home from the mot station turned it off then came back to it an hour l8r and it wouldnt start and has not run since i've removed the tank and air box and am checking through every thing but am having trouble cause the guy i got it off had allready started stripping it down the bike cranks over fine but just doesnt fire theres a good spark at the plugs
any help u can give me would be greatly appreciated
cheers andy
 

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Andy, Welcome to the forum. One of the fuel hoses popping off is something becoming common with age. Replace the spring clips with hose clamps.

Brad
 
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