Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It's about that time of year when I start thinking about breaking out the heated gear to extend the riding season. I use the Gerbing pants liner, jacket liner and gloves, with the dual controller, and find I can ride comfortably in even the lowest temps we experience here in the DC area. My prior bike (1700 cc metric cruiser) had no problem handling the current draw of all three. I rarely, if ever, have either control knob much above 50%. I'm wondering how the GT will fare with this set-up.

According to Gerbing, the gear I have has a combined draw of 148 watts, which translates to around 10.5 amps (using Gerbing's recommended 14 volts as the alternator output, which seems a bit higher than actual, based on posts by people who have measured their bike's voltage). So based on my understanding that the accessory outlet under the left fairing is rated at 10 amps, I intend instead to connect the heated gear via a direct pig tail connection to the battery - although given that I don't expect to go past 50%, maybe I can get away with using the accessory outlet.

I'm wondering if anyone has been using heated gear with a similar draw and what their experience has been. Assuming the electrical systems of the 1050 ST and GT are essentially the same, I'd be interested in hearing from the owners of either bike. BTW, I normally don't have any other accessories (cell phone, GPS, etc.) connected to the bike's electrical system. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,670 Posts
Cell phone, GPS, etc., are usually somewhere around .25-.5A apiece, so not much of an impact. Your setup is pushing it for sure if you're riding in city traffic, but probably fine for highway use.

One thing that would be good to know is how that heat controller works. Does it actually reduce the draw? (I guess it has to, else where would it shunt it?)

Cheers,
-Kit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
692 Posts
The Sprint GT alternator output is 420 watts so you should be fine. All three headlights on is 55W X 3 = 165W, plus tail lights and signals still well under.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Guys - thanks for the responses. I don't know for sure, but based on other posts on this topic people seem to assume the controller does reduce the draw. I haven't used mine since last winter but recall it does not even get warm, which I think suggests further confirmation. I'll give the set-up a try and report back if I run into any problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,622 Posts
Some of the best heated gear information on the web is from Warm & Safe.http://tinyurl.com/8wwm2un
Much of their information can carryover to most of the controllers made today.

I use OEM heated grips, an Aerostich Kanetsu heated liner and Warm&Safe controller and never had a voltage or heating problem, in-town or anywhere .

JohnD
I'm not sure of the amperage of a GT alternator nor its battery size(bigger than an ST), but it's probably not too much more than the late-ST's 35 amp output.
You have the lighting in your post, but you neglect to mention the current to actually run the thing, fuel pump, ECU, etc.
I would have to say, that a one person wearing full heated gear will have just adequate alternator output to get by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Cell phone, GPS, etc., are usually somewhere around .25-.5A apiece, so not much of an impact. Your setup is pushing it for sure if you're riding in city traffic, but probably fine for highway use.

One thing that would be good to know is how that heat controller works. Does it actually reduce the draw? (I guess it has to, else where would it shunt it?)

Cheers,
-Kit
I believe that heat controller is a pulse width modulator type so basically it cuts on and off the power at a rate you can adjust. The longer the "on" pulse the hotter it gets. My heated grips work the same way. The go from being on a fraction of a second then back off to being on for a full second each cycle (on the highest setting they just remain on all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Mike, I run the exact same heated gear set up on my ST and haven't had any issues. You should be able to run them 100% for a while on the highway but I turn them down in stop and go or when nearing my destination. I would recommend a battery tender if you don't already have one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Mike, I run the exact same heated gear set up on my ST and haven't had any issues. You should be able to run them 100% for a while on the highway but I turn them down in stop and go or when nearing my destination. I would recommend a battery tender if you don't already have one.
That's great to know. I tested out the jacket and pant liners yesterday, but not the gloves, and had no issues riding on the local roads. I do use a tender and will hook it up as soon as the weather turns cold. Right now it's a balmy 62 F, and going up to 70 here in the DC area, so I won't be needing the heated gear for a while I hope.

Thanks very much for the info.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
833 Posts
Hi, On my 2002 st we can run 2 heated vests two sets heated grips all with the lights on. A st alternator is rated at 35 amps. Watts = amps x volts so lets call it 13 volts running and that's low so the answer is 455 watts 14 volts would be 490 watts. Should be plenty there for heated gear most only use a few watts. I have not added up total watts used when running someone else can do that. I am running the upgrade Mosfet Rectifier so that probably helps. Cheers Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
896 Posts
Of you have the portable troller.
Just make sure you check the heat setting position before plugging it back in, when getting back on the bike. I once found out that I'd accidentally knocked the switch to full on while off the bike, but when I got back on & plugged back in, 30 seconds down the road I soon found out how hot the liner can get ........ Eeeek
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulM View Post
two sets heated grips
One set for the rear handlebars?

Wraparound grips on the rear pannier handles when the weather is a bit chilly, her who must be obeyed likes to keep her hands warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Of you have the portable troller.
Just make sure you check the heat setting position before plugging it back in, when getting back on the bike. I once found out that I'd accidentally knocked the switch to full on while off the bike, but when I got back on & plugged back in, 30 seconds down the road I soon found out how hot the liner can get ........ Eeeek
Good advice. I do have the portable 'troller and fortunately it gives a good solid click when turned full off. I make sure I feel the click on both knobs before turning the bike off or on.

I'm seriously thinking about having a permanent controller installed on the left side dash (? - not sure what the black panel on the left is called). I'm not thrilled with having the portable one clipped to the side of my jacket, where I can't see it with the full face helmet - and I wouldn't want to turn my head that far down and to the left anyway while riding. I may try to velcro it to the left side dash in the meantime.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Mike
I attached my controller with Velcro to just under the reset buttons. Works for me.:)
I like that a lot. I was thinking of putting it where you have your volt meter, but having it under the reset buttons seems like a good alternative. I'll do some experimenting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,622 Posts
Mike
Carefully check your output cable length before mounting. I had to convert from SAE to coax fitting. I purchased a 6" long adaptor and was able to just end the fitting near the stock accessory power plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Mike
Carefully check your output cable length before mounting. I had to convert from SAE to coax fitting. I purchased a 6" long adaptor and was able to just end the fitting near the stock accessory power plug.
Yeah, I checked and the cables on the troller (already coax) won't reach far enough back to plug into my gear or the pig tail. I could re-route the pig tail and get an extension for the two lines that go into the heated gear, but my troller is a lot wider than yours and won't fit below the reset buttons anyway. It looks like it will work if I velcro it towards the bottom of the panel where you have your volt meter. When I get around to trying it, I'll post a pic.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top