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How well do the electrical systems on the Triumph Twins support heated clothing and grips?

It's chilly here, but no snow on the ground yet. I'm still riding, but getting a little uncomfortable on longer rides due to the temps... I'd like to extend my riding season and believe heated gear & grips will help.

Does the Triumph electrical system pump out enough juice to cover the additional draw? What plug-in adapter is recommended?

How about gear? I've never had any heated riding gear and don't know beans about it. Who makes good stuff?

Thanks, Guy
 

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I'm no expert but I've just had heated grips installed on my Bonnie; she copes beautifully and I no longer suffer from "oh my god, my hands are sooo cold!"
 

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Ditto M700R

This fall I installed heated grips, and combined with the GPS I run I haven't had any trouble keeping the battery charged.

The auxiliary circuit fuse that comes in your bike already is a 10A fuse, so you're good for at least that much. The GPS draws less than 2A and both grips combined draw less than 5A.

Here's a good place to start if you're going to wire them up yourself, though I used a Blue Sea fuse block instead of a distribution block.

I really enjoyed that wiring & install project, so I hope this might help!
 

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While I have not yet given in to electric heating devices, several of my friends have and they say they should have done it long ago. They are reasonably priced and are reliable.
 

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For the first time in my life i purchased a heated vest and trialed it this weekend (not that it was cold - just around 55 dagrees). Sensational! - and the ability to reduce the heat as the day gets warmer is great. I have never liked being cabled into the bike so I went with the portable battery powered Jett vest out of Australia as it got great reviews. It runs off a rechargeable battery, heats well and last 5 or so hours. Well worth a look.
 

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You should be fine at road speed, M700R.
Using the time honored formula W(atts) = V(olts) x A(mps), I think you can conservatively say that Watts = 12 volts x published alternator output amperage of 27amps, or 324 Watts with the alternator spun up to highway speed.

The heated grips I installed pull 35Watts, and the heated short sleeve vest pulls 40Watts. Add that to low beam of 65W. Don't recall what I used for the taillight or ignition requirements, but it isn't much.

I've run heated grips and worn heated vests on my old BMW Airhead for years, and that bike barely charges below 3000rpm. The Beemer alternator is rated at 280Watts, on a good day with a tailwind. Keep in mind the Beemer has a larger battery than the Triumph, therefore I can be a bit more careless about putting thru town with everything hooked up.

Bob
 

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any links to the heated grips or vests? I know Bemer has a heated suit.
 

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Let me see if I can find you some links.

Bob
 

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Browse for 'Gerbing'
Browse for "Widder'
One of these companies is closing the doors in a few months. But both of them make super good heated clothing.

For heated grips, here's a good link:
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm

I've used lesser grip heaters than theirs, but, based on how they control the heat, I'd use Dual Star on my next bike.

Bob
 

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OK, for $30, I just have to order the heated grips. Can anyone give me a breakdown of what else I need other than their kit if I want to install them myself? Will I be able to use my stock grips? Bar end mirrors a problem? Anything else I should know?

Do I need any of the optional parts they list?
 

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If you're talking about installing the DualStars:
a) I reused my stock grips directly over the heaters
b) I don't have bar end mirrors, but I do have bar end wts
c) I'm running an aftermarket handlebar
d) Other parts? Maybe the better switch and rubber switch cover
e) Adhesive to reattach the grips. I used hair spray. Works fine.

Note - I could not find a plug compatible with the switched Triumph one, so I clipped the Triumph plug off and attached the grip kit wire to wire. I didn't like doing this, but .... its a done deal now. I saved the plug for reattachment in the future if necessary.

Search this site if you're in doubt as to how to remove the grips. Some use compressed air, others slip a small long screwdriver between the grip and handlebar and work the factory adhesive loose. Just remember, when you install the wiring, to leave yourself enough slack so you don't pull anything loose when you turn the bars to the steering locks. Also leave enough on the right hand one so you can turn the throttle without pulling wiring loose. I used small zip loks to hold the wiring in place. I then ran the wiring around both sides of the steering head, then down the top of the frame backbone, again using zip loks to keep things in place.

I didn't want to drill holes in any bodywork to mount the off/on heater switch, so I made a small bracket like this out of a piece thin steel plate, drilled it, bent it in a vice, sprayed it black, and mounted it to an existing bolt on the right side top engine mount, under the back of the fuel tank (see next link).

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=Mountforheatedgriptoggleswitch.jpg

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/bcgilligan/?action=view&current=SwitchMountDrawing2jpeg.jpg

Bob
 

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Back to the original question, I just bought the Tourmaster heated vest and heated pants liner. I haven't tested them extensively, but my Bonnie had no trouble powering them both at the same time, and they worked great. The prices were reasonable too - $108 for the vest and $126 for the pants, including shipping. The pants liner has a lot of insulation working for it even with the electricity turned off. If you have a windproof jacket with a liner and use the heated vest underneath it (and over a thin shirt) you should be good down to 30. I found that even the lowest setting put out a lot of heat. I decided to go with just the vest (which does not include the sleeves or the neck part) because I don't plan to ride when it is below freezing. If you live in Wisconsin and are nuts enough to ride in the dead of winter, I suggest going for the full liner. In any event, get a size that fits you snugly, since the vest and pants liner work best when directly against your body.
 

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where's the switched accessory plug?

Hey Ohiorider or any others in the know...where is the switched accessory plug, and what does it look like? I just installed heated grips and tapped into an accessory plug that was under the tank (purple wire, about 16 guage), but it wasn't switched. Not a problem for most people, but I'm absent minded. I inadvertently discharged the battery 2x in 3 weeks because I forgot to switch off the grips after I turned off the iginition. People at work already think I'm a kook for riding in the cold, let alone running around the parking lot with my bike trying to bump start it.
 

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Let me think back ..... as I recall, both the switched and unswitched outlets were short extensions off the main wiring harness, directly under the gas tank. The factory may have wrapped some tape over these connections to cover them. I'll see if I can find the instructions for the 12v accessory connection from Triumph. If I find more info, I'll post it here.

You do want the grips on a switched connection, since our 10AH batterys would discharge rather quickly with the grips left on.

Bob
 

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05 Truxter - ck your pm

I found some old postings that might be helpful. Ck your PM.

Bob
 

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heated grips

I just bought the DualStar heated grips. I've installed them, with only the power wire left to hook up. Is there any reason I shouldn't run it all the way back to the fuse box and use one of the unused connections there? In the Bonnie, are those connections switch controlled so they won't supply power when the key is turned off?

Ned
 

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Good question, Kraftno. I hope someone in the know electrically answers it.

Bob
 

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It would not be that hard to add a relay off the ignition switch to turn on an accessory outlet to run clothing grips or whatever. I made the plunge last year and bought a Gerbing jactet liner and gloves. What a difference no more Michelin man look for me. You can make a speed controller for a dc motor to control the heat level http://solorb.com/elect/pwm/pwm1/ and here http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/circuits.htm Its not that hard to build and you'll learn a little basic electronics as well as saving a little money $80 vs $10 to build a controller.
 
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