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401 Posts
Triumph Service Tool # 3880140-T0301, if anyone has this toolset, and doesn't plan on using it in the immediate future, I'd sure love to borrow it. Of course I'd gladly pay/recompensate for postage both ways. Thanks!
Headrace Adjusters?
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300 Posts
Uuuh, YEAH...... can I be in line to borrow it next?!?!?!!!! I didn't tighten my front end down correctly, and it's likely getting looser with every ride!
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104 Posts
Michael,
I have the tools over in Bay St. Louis.
I'm at work today til 1800. Call 688-2352
Mike
I have the tools over in Bay St. Louis.
I'm at work today til 1800. Call 688-2352
Mike
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401 Posts
Thanks Mike, will be calling you before noon.
here's a tip - not sure if it will work yet but chap in local breaker/gear shop assures me it will.
You can replace the Triumph flat 1.5 inch nuts with notched ones from a variety of bikes - I forgot which ones the ones I plan to put on at the weekend come from.
You can then use a standard (cheap) C spanner that fits.
Chap in shop says they do it a lot on Triumphs they get in.
You can replace the Triumph flat 1.5 inch nuts with notched ones from a variety of bikes - I forgot which ones the ones I plan to put on at the weekend come from.
You can then use a standard (cheap) C spanner that fits.
Chap in shop says they do it a lot on Triumphs they get in.
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300 Posts
I've been riding around for over a couple thousand miles now with........ loose nuts.
Last night I dropped it a gear, accelerated hard as I passed a car on the freeway, and the front end kinda jumped around as I leaned & crossed over those lane divider/reflector thingys. I gotta do some'n 'bout this soon!
I think I'll look into those notched nuts, but dammit.... the factory nuts are wafer thin, I mean THIN! It's attempting to hold the bottom nut in place while tightening the top that's problematic.
Loose nuts is driving me..... nuts!
Last night I dropped it a gear, accelerated hard as I passed a car on the freeway, and the front end kinda jumped around as I leaned & crossed over those lane divider/reflector thingys. I gotta do some'n 'bout this soon!
I think I'll look into those notched nuts, but dammit.... the factory nuts are wafer thin, I mean THIN! It's attempting to hold the bottom nut in place while tightening the top that's problematic.
Loose nuts is driving me..... nuts!
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5,612 Posts
This is probably old news to most of you long-time bikers, but don't overtighten the steering head bearings, or your bike will exhibit some very strange handling characteristics, especially at low speed. Lots of wobbling and weaving. It is a delicate adjustment, finding the sweet spot between too loose and too tight.
My W650 head bearings were slightly loose, and I've tightened them just a touch too tight. However, it is close enough that I'll ride it out. If you haven't grossly overtightened them, they generally work themselves back to where they need to be.
Bob
My W650 head bearings were slightly loose, and I've tightened them just a touch too tight. However, it is close enough that I'll ride it out. If you haven't grossly overtightened them, they generally work themselves back to where they need to be.
Bob
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5,612 Posts
Pat - I'd have to say that steering head bearings could work themselves into an unsafe condition. Since many bikes don't have steering dampers, the tension on the steering head bearings acts (sort of) like a damper. My old GS really needs them tightened up. The front end hit some gravel in a turn last summer, and the handlebars went into a violent headshake. I think if I'd have had the steering head bearings adjusted properly, this would have been reduced or eliminated. This headshake potential gets worse with more weight on the rear of the bike .... especially behind the rear axle.
Aside from the above, running them too loose can cause the bearing races to get beaten flat where they most often sit (centered), causing the steering to be notchy whenever you attempt to steer left or right of the centerline.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, it's a fine line between too loose and too tight.
Bob
Aside from the above, running them too loose can cause the bearing races to get beaten flat where they most often sit (centered), causing the steering to be notchy whenever you attempt to steer left or right of the centerline.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, it's a fine line between too loose and too tight.
Bob
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359 Posts
Anybody looked around for some tapered roller bearings for our bikes?
...... and what about "needle bearings"? (I think I heard 'em called). Somebody, somewhere sells upgraded bearings for our Bonnies, and try as I may..... I just couldn't find 'em.
Soooo.... what are the advantages to these fancy ('needle') bearings? I really hafta address this front-end issue. I'd like an excuse to add a steering damper to my bike (I always thought they looked cool on people's bikes), but I don't want a damper to act as a Band Aid to a problem that can be prevented.
In addition, I REALLY want to know more about these nuts with notches, but I just can't see it; they're sooo thin. So as tight as I could get my nuts (without OVERtightening 'em), and as much as I've heard about this "one inch fall rule", I may be doing damage to my bearings by having not tightened them enough.
Needle bearings? Anyone?
Soooo.... what are the advantages to these fancy ('needle') bearings? I really hafta address this front-end issue. I'd like an excuse to add a steering damper to my bike (I always thought they looked cool on people's bikes), but I don't want a damper to act as a Band Aid to a problem that can be prevented.
In addition, I REALLY want to know more about these nuts with notches, but I just can't see it; they're sooo thin. So as tight as I could get my nuts (without OVERtightening 'em), and as much as I've heard about this "one inch fall rule", I may be doing damage to my bearings by having not tightened them enough.
Needle bearings? Anyone?
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359 Posts
Rat,
You may well be thinking about the tapered roller bearings as they will take a loading in multiple directions (like the stock ball and race type) while "needle bearings or caged needles are designed only to take radial loading.
You may well be thinking about the tapered roller bearings as they will take a loading in multiple directions (like the stock ball and race type) while "needle bearings or caged needles are designed only to take radial loading.
hmmmm..... that may 'splain why needle bearings in the pictures/info I've been Googling just didn't look right......
"Tapered roller bearings"?
back to Googling......
I KNOW there is somebody out there who makes 'em for our Bonnies. If I'm not mistaken, it's the outfit that offers a whole front end for our bikes (I know that front end was BIG $$!$$ too!!)
I'm not giving up..... gotta find me them bad boys!
"Tapered roller bearings"?
back to Googling......
I KNOW there is somebody out there who makes 'em for our Bonnies. If I'm not mistaken, it's the outfit that offers a whole front end for our bikes (I know that front end was BIG $$!$$ too!!)
I'm not giving up..... gotta find me them bad boys!
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1,408 Posts
You'll know that your steering head bearings need adjusment by jacking your front end off the floor and moving the wheel up and down. If you hear a faint knocking noise, your bearings are getting a little loose. The race adjuster on the Bonnie is one of the few maintenance items that is not home-mechanic friendly. Don't let that stop you from giving this important adjustment your attention. Proper headset adjustment is a critical safety issue. See this link (this is for Meriden Triumphs) for a tutorial on installing and adjusting steering head bearings. BTW...this is a good example of the tapered roller bearings discussed above:
British Cycle
British Cycle
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1,408 Posts
One more thing...from the look of the exploded drawing of the forks on BikeBandit, the Bonnie appears to be equipped with tapered roller steering head bearings as stock. Look for yourself:
BikeBandit
BikeBandit
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1,049 Posts
The Haynes manual has an excellent description, with plenty of photos of the tapered roller bearings, on how to properly adjust and lubricate your head bearings (Section 5-9 and 5-10). For such a critical adjustment, buying or borrowing the Triumph adjusters is well worth it.
You don't have to hunt for tapered roller bearings since Triumph already put them in. The object in tightening the head bearings is to tighten the bearings on the taper so that the fork is still free to rotate but not free to "rock" or "wobble" in the bearing. All you want to do is to take out the wobble, not tighten things up to make the bearing act like a steering damper. It's just like tightening wheel bearings on a car.
Rich
[ This message was edited by: raproe on 2007-03-19 13:46 ]
You don't have to hunt for tapered roller bearings since Triumph already put them in. The object in tightening the head bearings is to tighten the bearings on the taper so that the fork is still free to rotate but not free to "rock" or "wobble" in the bearing. All you want to do is to take out the wobble, not tighten things up to make the bearing act like a steering damper. It's just like tightening wheel bearings on a car.
Rich
[ This message was edited by: raproe on 2007-03-19 13:46 ]
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