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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the sequence of events, when you press the starter button...??
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Reason.....sometimes, after I release the starter, and the motah fires after about 4 clicks....the headlights ( which extinguish on press) kind of slowly 'fade back in'....it's not the wiring ( I don't think) and it's definitely not the lamps..

but lately, it's been getting worse.....instead of a 'fade in' sometimes they don't come on for about 5 mins of throttle blipping.............

any ideas if it could be relay/fuse etc.....switch even.....???
(Fuses all look good....relay's.....well, I view Electrickery as a 'black art' much like Withcraft!!!!!!)...it's 'smoke in wires'...and if the smoke stays in there, it's all good!
 

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There is a relay, commonly called a "load shed" relay. It sounds like yours is going bad. Probably oxidized contacts. I don't really know what Triumph calls the thing but it will be something like that. You should be able to recognize it as it will have an extra wire compared to the others in the bunch.

Just thinking, it might be integrated into the starter relay, although I think not. I don't have schematics handy to refer to.

OK, went over to Bike Bandit and looked it up. Called "Relay Changeover" part # 10 on the schematic.

http://www.bikebandit.com/triumph-motorcycle-sprint-rs-2004/o/m17673
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.....

taking the side panels..( ha, what a name, considering they encompass pretty much 1/2 length of the Bike!!) off in a few minutes.....maybe it's just sticking contacts, and can be opened/cleaned, like we used to do with our old 'points ignition'....

If not, I assume it's NOT a standard? relay........that I can somehow x reference with Grainger...............???
 

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Nope, it is not a standard relay, such as the common "Bosch" type relay. You could use the schematic on the case and try to find a match in Graingers or http://www.mouser.com/catalog/637/1717.pdf

If I remember correctly, it is not that expensive from B'bandit, or even a dealer.

You might be able to carefully open the case, if it is not plastic solvent welded, and clean the contacts.
 

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Just looking at their exterior (which may mean diddley), I think you can pop the cover off the relay by carefully prying the sides off of the detent 'hooks'. IIRC, the hooks are on the sides, when looking at the lettering on the top.

Way back when I worked at a boat shop, we sold Sea-Doos. They had relays of the same type. They were bad about welding the starter relays together (actually, they'd carbon up) with repeated cranking, and low batteries.

We'd regularly take the relays out and sand the contacts with emery cloth.

CAUTION! Don't bend the contactors! Don't try to wedge any more than the thickness of the sandpaper in between the contacts!

Put a bit (and, just a bit) of silicon grease around the base of the relay, and pop the cover back on. The grease helps weather proofing.

HTH!
 

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First, the relay is $12 from Bike Bandit.

Second, make no attempt to sand the contats, all you will do is remove whatever protective coating (usually Gold or Silver plate) is on the contacts leading to a relay that will fail again in short order. It'll work, maybe, in the short term but you will have buggered the relay for sure.

This type of relay is really common and shouldn't be all that difficult to find. Get the #'s from the OEM relay and do a search with somebody like Digikey for a cross reference. You might even, now that you know what it is called, try (gasp) your dealer. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks lads,
tried the Hella USA site, but they don't have a match for it.......

It works on the 'flash' switch, but NO main lights, just the rear light...

I DID get it pried apart, didn't look to be arcing/welded together....contacts looked clean, spring worked etc....did NOT attempt to clean it.....even though it took me back to my 'two stroke' days cleaning points/re gapping at the side of the road, whilst doing a 'plug chop'..........lol!!

Could it (possibly) be the wiring side of it..??
IE: a wire not 'energising' that pole , when it should, or should I just go for broke (gulp) and order the 12 dollar relay!!!!
 

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You can clean the relay contacts but by no means should you use sand paper. I work for the local electric utility and we have relays galore and while my specific job classification doesn't deal with how they are set or cleaning the majority of protective relaying we do deal with control relays all the time. The main ones are the voltage regulating relays that operate often as the load cycles up or down. The contacts make and break supplying 120V AC and sometimes 48V-125V DC depending on the scheme and they often get pitted or dirty. The procedure to clean them is usually to call out a relay tech but in order to expedite the job we clean them our selves. We DO NOT use sand paper to accomplish this. The contacts are small and often coated with the aforementioned gold or nickel plating so the recommended procedure is to simply take a $1 bill and drag it across the contacts a few times and voila the relay works again.

It seems the dolar has enough grit(correct term?) to shine the contacts with out ruining them and it works. While a temporary fix it will actually last for quite a while if relay dept doesn't come out fast enough.

If you decide to take the route of opening it up cleaning try the dollar and run with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Worth a try, nice tip.....

I WAS going to try some WD40......but then remembered how I HATE that stuff, for being generally a 'dirt/dust magnet'...............!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't doubt it......

I shied away from it in the 90's........as it was becoming apparent to even MY befuddled brain, that apart from a quick n dirty water repellent, the residue left behind just attracts dirt/dust/crap like I attract mozzies!!!!
 
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