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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed the D9 bracket and it looks great. I want to change the headlight as well and am tilting towards 5"3/4. Has any one with a D9 bracket installed 5"3/4 headlights? Would be great if you could share pics.

Thanks
 

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Don't have the D9 bracket but I do have a 5 3/4" headlight. With both of the standard gauges the 5 3/4" headlight might look too small.
I ditched the dual gauges and went with a single Acewell gauge. Have seen others with small simple gauges and the 5 3/4" headlight.
I got my headlight from BC originally, just a simple bottom mount headlight. They also sell a simple bracket that lets you mount to the rectifier bolt location. (which you should move as well)
You have to manually rewire the light and decide how you want to move all the connectors out from the stock light bucket. Not a small job, but worth it for me in the end. I really like how simple it makes the front end and how the forks are fully visible. Especially from the rider's view... fun to look down and see the front wheel.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That looks really nice Zen! Was the install hard? I have been trying to find a post detailing installation of 5"3/4 but haven't found any.
 

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That looks really nice Zen! Was the install hard? I have been trying to find a post detailing installation of 5"3/4 but haven't found any.
The install of the light itself is pretty straight forward. Just remove the top triple clamp (no need to remove gauges), hang it to the side. Unplug and remove all the electrical connections from the stock bucket. Slide the whole light assembly and headlight ears up off the forks. New light installed with the BC adapter plate right to the old rectifier location.

My new light just came with bare wires sticking out of it. Had to cut off the old headlight connector and splice the new light wires onto it. Opted for some quick release connectors so I could take the new light off if needed.

The tricky part is deciding what to do with all the wires and connectors that were inside the old bucket. By moving all the connectors under the tank you end up with extra wire lengths so things end up doubling back on themselves. With some creativity in routing and multiple zip ties I was able to get everything hidden under the tank. It is a really tight fit but it does work. I ultimately want to get rid of them and all the extra wiring that they create, but I haven't gone there yet. m-unit and m-switches are calling...

Here is a picture of what hides under my tank :surprise: See the blue wires and the quick connectors in the middle, that heads to the new headlight. The little green box is a garage door opener that is wired to a switch on my bars!


 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the reply Zen. A few questions
1) Did you use a torque the bolt on top triple clamp?
2) Did you empty your tank before taking it off?
3) Does the BC Lamp come with High and low beams?
4) It looks like you cut the connectors on both the ends. Would it be possible to fit the wiring keeping the old connectors?
5) Do you remember how much time the install took?

Thanks a lot!
 

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Thanks for the reply Zen. A few questions

1) Did you use a torque the bolt on top triple clamp?

2) Did you empty your tank before taking it off?

3) Does the BC Lamp come with High and low beams?

4) It looks like you cut the connectors on both the ends. Would it be possible to fit the wiring keeping the old connectors?

5) Do you remember how much time the install took?



Thanks a lot!

Ok let me see about some responses.
1) No. I worked on my bike for 3 years and I just now got a torque wrench. Wouldn't hurt to use one though. Note the nut you see on the top of the triple is just a cover, and you'll need some big sockets to get it off or some careful wrenching with a socket. I taped my nut up to protect it from scratches.
2)The first few times I took my tank off I emptied it. Now I've had my tank off so many times for various reasons I can't count. Did it last night and just pulled it off with nearly a full tank. Of course it's heavier but thats really the only difference. With my carbed tank there are only two connectors, gas line and overflow line, so it's really easy to do.
3)Yes, same bulb as the stock light. It came with a bulb, but you could use your existing one as well.
4)The stock wiring extends all the way to the lightbulb and terminates with the standard three pronged plug. This works as there is a large hole in the headlight bucket that the connector can fit thru so you can remove the bucket. However, the bottom mount light only has about a 3/8" diameter hole into the light bucket. So you have to wire it with the three pronged plug in the bucket and a quick release somewhere else. I wanted the quick release to be hidden so I placed it back under the tank. Had to extend the wires that came with the light to reach as they only stuck out of the light bucktet by a few inches. Get some 1/4 diameter shrink tubing to make a nice clean install.
5)It took me a couple of hours one afternoon

I have since relocated the garage door opener to inside the headlight bucket. Was too tight under the tank for it and it works better up in the headlight vs. under the tank.

Note you will need to partially unwrap the end of the wiring harness. I did this to get to some of the wires I needed and to reroute them to fit under the tank. Don't sweat it too much. The loom is really just a bunch of wires wrapped in some plastic sheathing and then wrapped in tape. You can open it up and rewrap without hurting anything.

Also, you'll have to relocate your ignition switch (I had already done this long ago). Getting creative with the routing of the wires is key. There is a lot to fit under the tank and not that much room! I separated the connectors and placed some on each side of the top frame so they would fit within the void space under the tank. Ultimately this conversion should be done by cutting out some of the excess wires out and shortening the loom to fit the new configuration. But, as you can see it can be done with leaving all (most) of the stock wiring intact. I could go back to the stock configuration of I wanted without too much trouble. If you cut and shorten the wiring you are committed to this layout. Someday I'll clean this all up when I can afford a m-unit and m-switches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Zen! Your post was very detailed and helpful.

If I understood correctly - for the wiring part you cut the headlight connector wire, then put connector in the bucket and taking out the wire end out through the hole in the bucket. Attached the quick release on ends where you cut the connector wire.


I did some more research and I want the headlight to be seated back between the fork.
So I searched some more and found the following post: http://www.triumphrat.net/club-cafe/203900-head-light-brackets-for-5-3-4-side-mount-headlight.html
You've also commented on that post :)
I don't have any tools to machine parts so not sure I can work on the part as mentioned in the post. Did you ever try to turn around the BC bracket to seat the lamp deeper.

Thanks
 

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Thanks Zen! Your post was very detailed and helpful.

If I understood correctly - for the wiring part you cut the headlight connector wire, then put connector in the bucket and taking out the wire end out through the hole in the bucket. Attached the quick release on ends where you cut the connector wire.
The headlight comes with a standard three pronged connector in the bucket already and just bare wires sticking out the back. I extended these wires and the attached the quick connectors to splice with where I cut off the old headlight wiring.
Tip, find some good quick release connectors. I had a box of cheap ones that I must have gotten at $%&* Depot or similar. They are total crap and not worth using in my opinion. These are the red shrouded ones you see on the garage door opener splice. A while back I order a few bags of good bullet connectors online (From www.cycleterminal.com) They are brass and have the flexible clear rubber seals on them. They work fantastic and make things so much easier. Also, invest in a nice crimper tool and wire stripper/cutter, I got their "economy" model with the blue handle.
I have slowly learned that having the right tools not only makes the job go quicker and easier, but it much more satisfying vs. struggling with cheap tools and ending up with a sub-par job.

tankz;8060250 I did some more research and I want the headlight to be seated back between the fork. So I searched some more and found the following post: [url said:
http://www.triumphrat.net/club-cafe/203900-head-light-brackets-for-5-3-4-side-mount-headlight.html[/url]
You've also commented on that post :)
I don't have any tools to machine parts so not sure I can work on the part as mentioned in the post. Did you ever try to turn around the BC bracket to seat the lamp deeper.

Thanks
Been on the board for a while... guess I get around.:grin2:

I have not flipped the bracket around. It is pointed forward in the pictures and as it sits only leaves a little space (~1/2") before the wires from the gauge and controls. If I flipped it around it would pull the headlight in by 1 1/2 to 2", almost nesting it between the forks. Probably would fit, but it would be tucked tight and be rubbing on all the other wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for taking the time to answer my queries Zen!
I have all the info to install the lamp :)
 
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