[AnotherHonda]

Bought a ignition switch relocation bracket but the switch doesn't fit, it's as if the holes for the switch were drilled and tapped on the wrong side of the sheet of aluminium before anodising.

I have managed to get my ignition switch working by removing what was left if the spring loaded cover that protects the key hole when the key isn't present and soldering the wires back on the switch, rather than having to plug in the hotwired connector when I want to switch the bike on. It won't turn to the P position and the back cover was smashed off as well but it will do for now but I will need a replacement, preferably before I put the bike on the road.

I'm sill looking for a replacement switch, even one that doesn't work electrically, as long as it's complete and the lock part works.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

I am not sure if my response is relevant. There are two styles of relocation plates that I am aware of. I have the one from Twisted Throttle that lets me relocate with a tiny tiny bit of fab to the plate on my SW Motech engine guards. I had mine chrome plated, but that is irrelevant. The other relocation plate is the Motone one which bolts up to the frame...where the Motech guards would otherwise go.

The point I am making is both style plates are highly functional, however they require mounting the switch upside down. No big deal, but there is a tiny "weep hole" at the bottom of the switch that now faces up. Every season during my first ride for the season inspection I run a bead of silicon over it to keep dirt and water out. I do not think there was something wrong with your plate and a modification to the switch as you did is something I probably would not have done as the plate is nickels and dimes and the switch is a higher dollar part, but that was your call on your bike.

The point being is that the plate works right when the switch mounts upside down. Just run a pinch of silicone over it.

 

[Kensby]

I bought a really cheap one that was exactly like yours. Got my money back and relocated it under the tank DIY style instead.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

DIY is also the way to go. This is essentially a piece of scrap cut to fit with a few holes and a few minutes with a file and either paint or polish or plate and be done. I only knew of two types from two sources. I never would have tampered with my switch over a nickel dime part...but so what...it works. Ride well.

 

[Kensby]

Here's a few pics of my DIY-version. Got inspired by another member here. Turned out great, nicely tucked away.

 

[AnotherHonda]

I never would have tampered with my switch over a nickel dime part...but so what...it works. Ride well.

I haven't tampered with the switch, the bike was stolen/recovered/vandalised.

The switch doesn't fit the bracket, I could keep it and redrill and tap all the way through, then fit longer fasteners and finish with A2 or black PVD dome nylocs, and get 20% off... or send it back and buy something else.

I have got the vandalised switch to work but I am looking for a replacement. Asked at the parts counter at a localish Triumph dealer and they said they can't get either version of the switch. So I'm looking for either a good used switch ore one where the switch part is faulty to rebuild using the good parts of mine

 

[Michael Bryce W]

Now I get it. What year is your bike? If I have a salvage part, it is yours for shipping. What model?
At this point I would fix what you have as it is now a DIY job which is always the best.

 

[Flash Nick]

Mine is just like that, but the holes were already drilled and tapped, no need for longer screws. On the bright side, if you get another lock it does not need to be key matched to anything else.

 

[AnotherHonda]

Now I get it. What year is your bike? If I have a salvage part, it is yours for shipping. What model?
At this point I would fix what you have as it is now a DIY job which is always the best.

That would be amazing, It's a 2004 T100, but any Triumph 790/865 ingition should fit...

America EFI, Bobber EFI, Bonneville carb or EFI, America EFI, Scrambler carb or EFI, Speedmaster EFI, T100 carb or EFI, Thruxton carb or EFI, Thunderbird 1600 or 1700.

America, Bobber, and Speedmaster carb ones will fit with a slight mod as they are one lug mount.

Thunderbird ones look like the fit with a different connector, but I can change that.

T2500803 or T2500804

You should see the state of the steering lock. Instead of removing it with a slide hammer, they cut it out with a disc cutter.

My mate has the frame from a crashed T100, that we are reframing into a Fenland Choppers hard tail frame.

When we scrap the frame, I can cut the lock out, and weld it into my frame.

 

[Ripper]

I'm sill looking for a replacement switch, even one that doesn't work electrically, as long as it's complete and the lock part works.

Not worth bothering with - when the switch is fitted upside down on the relocation bracket, water ingress will kill it very quickly. These switches have always been troublesome and a new switch is in the region of £150 to buy. For around £50 you could go keyless, either remote relay or RFID (build yourself). These offer more security because there is no switch for a bike thief to attack.

Remote Relay Ignition

Hi to all you fellow Triumph modders. There have been a few posts recently regarding keyless ignition and problems with the O.E ignition switch, so here is a write up of my solution. Or rather Rippers solution. Like many of you I “relocated “ my ignition switch to down on the right hand side of...

www.triumphrat.net

 

[Michael Bryce W]

I have ridden through blinding downpours. A bead of silicon makes the switch bullet proof.

 

[Ripper]

I have ridden through blinding downpours. A bead of silicon makes the switch bullet proof.

I get where you are coming from Michael, but why should you have to do that, especially with a new £150 switch. The silicon won't last forever either, so you'll have to keep resealing it periodically. Electronic/hands free is the way to go, a thief can't get at it, its very robust and doesn't suffer with water ingress.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

Ripper...without guys like you this would not be a hobby and keep up the good work. Keyless stuff is way over my head. I like my key and a bead of silicon around the middle of April. The bike is almost 10 years old (tomorrow it will be 10) and no war stories. I got to fab the plate and get it chromed...how do you beat that? Chrome...no matter how small the part, makes any bike that much better. High tech modifications like what comes natural to you is a disaster in waiting for me. I understand switches and male/female connection with a 3 ounce tube of silicon. I cannot understand the keyless set up and whatever I do not understand always goes bad in the rain at night over a weekend over 100 miles from home. From a security stand point, we are all a pick up truck with a snowmobile trailer and a medium strong guy away from being a victim even with a chain and an alarm. Nevertheless, stay on that cutting edge. We need guys like you.

 

[Ripper]

Michael, thank you for your kind words. I'm happy for you that you haven't had any problems with the bike and as you say, your own preventative measures have worked for you. I can't fault what you say, however in my 12 years on this forum I have come up against many small problematic aspects of the twins, of which the mechanical ignition switch is one of the most frequent.

Its not so much of a hobby for me (though electronics has been for around 56 years now). I joined this community to try and use my skills to help people, after all, who knows when I may need help in a different field. I love the exchange of skills and ideas on here. An added bonus is that I've learned so much in return. I look at things from a cost/benefit point of view, and if the troublesome mechanical switch can be replaced by something home made, reliable and more secure, then what's not to like about that. The remote relay switch I linked to earlier can be built by anyone for a tiny fraction of the price of a new mechanical switch. In Brit money, you're talking about the difference between around £30 as opposed to £150 for a new switch.

I agree about the chrome and can't understand why some have the urge to black out everything. Not that I have a problem with that. This is my offering. The chrome was the reason I didn't change the rear light or flashers, though they were converted to LED.

Keyless stuff is way over my head

You may think it is. In actual fact, the only skills you need are to read a circuit diagram and make connections in wiring using crimps (or solder if you are able). Basically put, the remote relay works just like the central locking on a car - you press a button on the fob and that transmits a code to the box (this is the 'authorization' part that your key usually does), which activates or deactivates a couple of relays. Those relays just emulate the switching configuration of the mechanical switch, except that their contacts are far more robust and don't suffer spark erosion due to moisture ingress.

High tech modifications like what comes natural to you is a disaster in waiting for me.

This is nothing high tech. In my time on here I've successfully helped many people with far more complex problems, who were complete novices, never touched a bit of wire in their lives. I've spent months via PM's and email, building complete wiring harnesses for people halfway across the globe. Here's one in New York, that I did the wiring for, to fit the bike with a marine switch, with a start position like a car. The guy wanted to get rid of the right handlebar switches.

With the remote relay, the board comes already built from eBay. The wiring goes on via screw connections and the only thing I've done is to graft on 2 more relays that actually does the ignition and make/supply the circuit diagrams. Further to that, I'm always here via PM.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

Ripper: Happy new year. While we may be apart on the keyless start, we agree on chrome. Our discussions about keyless start versus a bead of silicon at the beginning of the season is like a conversation between Captain Kirk and Bo Duke. Your knowlege base is appreciated. We see eye to eye on chrome. My sprocket is polished. My fenders are both chrome (polished aluminum). My cam covers and engine cases are polished. My bar end mirrors and headlight brackets are chrome as is my headlight. My shifter, brake, and brake/clutch levers are stainless. My choke knob is chrome. My chain guard is polished aluminum. My carb covers are chromed. My spoked wheels are Canyon Cycle polished as are my calipers. My fork legs, triple fork, front fender bracket, and all parts of the risers are powder coated silver. My fuel cap is chrome. My helmet locks are chrome. My shock retainers are silver. My lifting handles and kickstand are chrome. My pegs are silver front and back. I have the medium back sissy bar with chrome. All of the perch hardware on the handle bars is chrome. My stem nut clock is chrome as is my thermometer. My fork brace is polished silver. My brake reservoir is polished. My Free Spirit engine protectors are silver. My rectifier cover is polished aluminum. My Fly screen hardware is all polished silver. The barn door in this picture is for longer rides and a 500 mile round trip for a burger never gets old. My front and rear directionals and tail light are billet. Anything black on the bike is because the part defies my ability to remove and reinstall. The SW Motech engine protectors are so good they earned the right to stay in their natural form. Every bit of harware that could be replaced with stainless got stainless or chrome or polished. My side cover retaining bolts are chrome. I cannot understand the blackout desire...like stealth, but appreciate anyone's desire to individualize their machine. My license plate frame is black as the Iron Butt Riding Association only makes them that way. Oh yeah...my key relocation plate is chrome. My speedo retaining cup and knob is brushed aluminum. If it is black or plastic it has to go.

What is the story on that tank??? That gets anyone a pass for anything on a bike not chrome. That paint job is off the scale. Who did that??? If you know? If anything goes on the cool scale with chrome or can even pass it...it is flames. The car switch is a great idea, but I am mindful of my knowledge base and abilities and my supply chain. I live in a remote area. If I do not understand it or am not able to readily fix or replace it, I am better off chroming it or something else to compensate.

 

[Ripper]

And a very happy New Year to you too, and everyone here. Yes I do agree that we are apart on the ignition, but has still produced sensible debate. I can only advise from my point of view but people will always choose their own path. That is one beautiful bike you have there, the style and chrome/paint ratio I can tell has been carefully thought through. Although I love a bit of chrome to break things up and add a little class, I don't like to have too much, and of course it needs to be evenly distributed. I actually prefer stainless, when its mirror polished its hard to tell the difference. Chrome has a slightly deeper shine, but stainless won't corrode in the British climate. Aluminium parts like engine cases are stripped of the original finish and mirror polished. Levers, footpegs are billet and the chrome chain guard is from a Thruxton.

What is the story on that tank??? That gets anyone a pass for anything on a bike not chrome. That paint job is off the scale. Who did that??? If you know? If anything goes on the cool scale with chrome or can even pass it...it is flames.

I would have left the bike stock, but it went over one day, causing considerable damage considering that the bike wasn't moving at the time. The price of OEM parts, even used ones were prohibitive. That's when I worked out that using 3rd party bits was not only cheaper but better, so going to town on the bike began. I decided to put my mark on it.

The paint job is mainly symbolic and tells a story. I wanted something very specific - fire (not flames) around the tank, fading to black at the rear, overlaid with a tattered Union Jack. This is symbolic of Triumph's turbulent existence, the flag saying "We are battle scarred, but we are still standing". On the left side panel is a firebird which symbolizes new Triumph's rise from the ashes of the old. I don't like to post this picture because of the old toilet in the background, these pictures were taken when I was in the middle of a bathroom refurb:

On the right side panel (see previous pic) is the Grim Reaper, giving the finger. Nothing to do with being symbolic, this character is from Terry Pratchet's Discworld novels and is really funny. The fenders are both plastic, so it was decided to dress those up a little with an airbrushed "draped" chequered flag.

Originally being quoted eye watering prices just for the tank, I had a look into hydro dipping, but was told that for the flag I would have to use a decal, so that was a no from me. Chance happened when I took a ride to an event and got pointed to a young guy who does airbrushing. He was struggling at the time and I almost choked on my coffee when he quoted less than half the previous quotes, for the whole bike. When I tried to describe what I wanted its as though he could read my mind. Having no money to pay his rent, he had borrowed a jet ski that he had done for a previous customer to display at the event. I was blown away when I saw it - it had an Avengers theme, and not only had he airbrushed the characters, but the actors who played them. His name is Alex Williams and he specializes in photo reality. This guy can airbrush anything.

Alex Williams

Explore Alex Williams’s 550 photos on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

I understand what you say about abilities, I really do, I've been there myself, having taken on a house which was a complete wreck with no knowledge of trade skills (I'm a welder by trade) and not knowing where to begin. Nevertheless I have done what I had to do and I've learned so much over the last 5 years. Still a way to go, but now I know that I'll make it. I think its a matter of self confidence, some tasks have taken me a long time before I plucked up the courage to begin. Its easy for me to say the ignition is a simple job I know, but I've found over the years that if I instill the confidence in someone, if I have the confidence in them, that they can do most anything. The key is explaining and making sure that they understand the job before beginning. Electricity behaves the same, regardless of what it flows through.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

Ripper: My chroming/polishing/stainless replacements are the same thought process and deliberation that went into your tank and side covers. I did not get on the internet with a charge card, see anything shiney and click. You didn't find a flunky and say "do a flag with some flames." You were methodical and deliberate as was I. I left the my side covers alone as this paint scheme was a big deal for me. I almost could have lived with the fenders...except one of the guys in my gang (riding partners) has a 1983 Suzuki GS 750T...look to the far bike in the picture that sort of looks like mine. One look at his fenders made me want to scrap my plastic. The rear fender was an easy find. Don't let the spokes fool you, this is a mag wheel Bonneville. There is only one vendor who sells a chrome front mag fender....a vendor in the U.K.. They make the part. They once got burnt bad by a customer in the states on a set of brakes so they will never ship to the states again. A member on this site got wind of this. He needed some things that were just as difficult to get in the U.K.. There was about a $15.00 difference in the currency (I forgot who got the better deal on that) and the deal went down and I got my fender. ...

Back to not wanting to mess with my paint scheme...I never had regard for a paint scheme before as I too knew that a chip book and a guy with a compressor could get me any color I wanted on my tank and covers...however in 2012 I saw the intense orange and phantom black Bonneville and for the first time in my life I saw a color scheme "I had to have." Work got in the way of my quest for this bike and before you know it, 2012 was over and 2013 was here...good news...same scheme available...bad news...work was just as busy and the year got.away from me. I forgot about it and did not want to buy used....however I came across a 2013 in 2015 with 168 miles on it for $5,700.00. I bought it.

As much as I dislike plastic I wanted as much of this paint to show as possible..but the fenders had to go. The chrome had to be balanced...not intrusive or over done. I am 58 years old. Wheels are polished with spokes and cleaned with a toilet bowl brush...calling Canyon Cycles which by irony is about 15 miles up the same road that my highschool was on.

I too make stainless my first material of choice.
The climate where I live is particularly harsh. Lots of salt on the roads in the winter. Lots of rain all the time. I polish my stuff regularly, but stainless takes some of the weight off, but yes this bike takes lots of polishing. I use Mother's mag and aluminum polish and all is good.

How did your fenders come to be? Again...off the scale.




.

 

[Ripper]

I confess that there were times when I clicked and bought online, however these were small items that would be more costly to make myself, the big exception being the Burton seat. If I have to buy or pay for a service I prefer to support the little guy because he tends to care more and offer a better quality product, for example, tune from TTP, lay flat instrument bracket by D9 - both members of this forum with small businesses. LED boards for the flashers and OEM rear light, IMO the best on the market, came from Matchless Clueless, a guy who originally made these for the Matchless forum, and at my request, began to produce boards for the Triumph twins. At first, just boards for the Lucas replica tail lights, then requests from this forum led to boards for the OEM 'ET head' tail lights and OEM flashers.

There's a few improvements on my bike that are hidden, mainly electrical. For example it has keyless ignition that works on both keyfob and RFID frequencies which gives me choice on how I want to switch the bike. With RFID (present a tag, like tapping your bank card in a store), I can get tags in the form of credit card, coin size or a ring, or the pet chip which can be sewn into a glove. A member on here even had the pet chip implanted into his hand. That was a bit overboard I know, but his reasoning was that by programming 'his hand' to multiple RFID units, he could operate numerous things such as garage door, or the ignition of multiple bikes with just a wave of the hand. Of course I think having a tag implanted is insane, however if one is so minded the possibilities are endless - light switches, garage doors - anything requiring switching on or off.

Another hidden feature of my bike is the hazard flashers. These are not ordinary hazards but work in a smart way. Initially, they won't come on without ignition but having set them going the ignition can be switched off. They will keep going until switched off at the handlebar, after that the ignition needs to be on before they will start again. I planned it like this so that if I should get stranded by a roadside breakdown, I can leave the bike to phone for help or whatever without leaving ignition on. I believe that BMW have this feature also.

I too make stainless my first material of choice.
The climate where I live is particularly harsh. Lots of salt on the roads in the winter. Lots of rain all the time. I polish my stuff regularly, but stainless takes some of the weight off, but yes this bike takes lots of polishing. I use Mother's mag and aluminum polish and all is good.

Much the same climate here, in the winter the road salt is wicked, but still necessary. We usually get just a few days of sun during the summer, between showers and heavy downpours in the spring and autumn. The UK is a dank, damp country to put it bluntly.

As far as polishing is concerned I'd like to give you a heads up on some wonderful stuff. Its a metal polish called White Diamond. Its for any metal and is the same stuff that the truckers on your side of the pond use on those big mirror finished aluminium fuel tanks. When I had my engine cases polished I started using this stuff, it leaves behind a protective coating and I only had to polish the cases about once per year, despite the English climate. The white oxidization that plagued me before was gone. However I will say that my bike is pampered and under cover when not being ridden. Paintwork is also a once per year job, I use a ceramic coating (for car detailing) on that, which is a water repellent. Water runs straight off and won't even bead. I find that if water doesn't stick, then neither does the road grime. A simple rinse/wipe over now and again keeps the bike sparkling, no shampoos or detergents. My bike is 12 years old in March.

How did your fenders come to be? Again...off the scale.

I find that plastic has its uses, experience with chrome fenders in the past was not good, they tend to rot from the inside, and at one point I had attempted to cure this by coating the inside with underseal (as on cars). The spray from the wheel simply carved a trench in the underseal and they kept corroding. I thanked the lord when plastic fenders and side panels (and mag wheels too) started to appear, so I didn't want to change them. However, the bike was all black originally. Black is my favourite colour, and the bike did have some chrome but there was too much black.

So when I planned out the paint job, and made it symbolic, I decided on the chequered flag as my personal tribute to Slippery Sam - I'm sure you already know, but Slippery Sam was a factory racing Trident. It earned its nickname when it had engine problems and dropped all its oil on the track during the 1970 Bol d'Or, and still managed to finish in 5th place. Sam went on to win 5 consecutive production 750 races in the Isle of Man TT from 1971 to 1975. It was arguably the best bike to ever come out of the Meriden factory.

I've been up close and seen Slippery Sam many times at the National Motorcycle Museum. However, there was a big fire there in 2003 and Sam was destroyed, but has since been restored. Still, Sam is no longer original.

 

[Michael Bryce W]

I live in a secluded area so whatever I cannot fabricate has to come off of the internet. D9 did my dash cup. He was great to deal with for the part and directions. TTP is a sore spot. They were the best. I put off the throttle body modification for a year and they did away with the modification...talk about regret.

White Diamond is an excellent product. I give her a good polish in the spring. I keep a blanket over it in the winter.

I know the pros and cons of plastic and I have my old parts stored safe. I wait for a good 3 heavy rains before hitting the roads. Riding in the rain is my pressure washer. I dry her off and call it good.