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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

With the 50% off coupon ( found in motorcycle magazine ), it was $ 299.98 . The quality is pretty good and it was well assembled. It takes quite a few " pumps " to get the full height ( about 30 " ). The pedal to lower it is super smooth and easy to control. I replaced the useless wheel choke that came with it with an upgrade which while cheap is not much better for the small wheel of the Triumph. You need straps to secure the bike, or put in on its centerstand. As I picked up the rear of the bike, my wife lowered the centerstand. No need to move the bike rear ward or forward for off. The rear plate comes off to facilitate the rear wheel removal. The paint and finish are good, but very slippery. Could use some truck bed liner paint. Overall, very happy but kicking myself for not buying it years ago. I am a cabinetmaker and never buy hand or power tools from Harbor Freight Tools. I need the best tools that will do what I need them for and last for years to come. But in all honesty, stuff like that lift table ( or a can shaker ) are just very good value for the service they provide and I also need to say Harbor Freight has a very good after sales track record with me.
Terry
 

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I own two of these. First one I bought new when they were $299.00 as their regular price. Coupon and sale brought the price way down. Bought the second one used for $100.00 for my barn at our camp.

I welded up a couple of front wheel clamps for the same reason you mention, that clamp that comes with them is just a tad better than a clothes pin. I'll snap some pics of my wheel clamp in case anyone wants to make one for their lift.

The steel for my clamp came from a weight lifting machine that somebody put out for the trash. All square tubing and pre-bent for my needs. Made two clamps and still have steel left over.

I'll post pic later today if I think to take them.

regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I own two of these. First one I bought new when they were $299.00 as their regular price. Coupon and sale brought the price way down. Bought the second one used for $100.00 for my barn at our camp.

I welded up a couple of front wheel clamps for the same reason you mention, that clamp that comes with them is just a tad better than a clothes pin. I'll snap some pics of my wheel clamp in case anyone wants to make one for their lift.

The steel for my clamp came from a weight lifting machine that somebody put out for the trash. All square tubing and pre-bent for my needs. Made two clamps and still have steel left over.

I'll post pic later today if I think to take them.

regards,
Rob
Hi Rob,

I would love to see your clamps. Thanks.

Terry
 

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I've got one of those. Check CL. I see them for sale used all the time. They are handy for things like changing tires or pulling the front end off a bike. Not very useful for oil changes and other things. I chromed the front end on my Harley and the bike spent a good chunk of the winter sitting on that lift with no front end on it.

I have it at my summer place now because that is where the Harley resides. I've never used it on anything but the Harley.

Forgot about snapping pics. Got embroiled in making brackets for the wheel chocks in my trailer and forgot all about it. Will so snap some now.


regards,
Rob
 

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Make sure you can return it if it does not suit your needs. If you are working on a budget, I'm not sure this type of lift should be on the top of your want list. You can make a very simple floor jack from pipe that will suit your needs. I assume your centerstand is gone. If you can install it for your front end work, I would do that and just strap down the back end of the bike to keep the front end suspended.

Here's the pics of the wheel clamp I built. Built two of them, actually.






You need to put a piece of angle iron along the bottom of the lift table on each side to stop it from flexing. My fingers are pointing to the bolts that mount the clamp base and one end of the angle under the table (left bolt) and the other end of the angle (right bolt). If I had made the base plate longer (spanning those same two bolt holes) the angles under the table probably would not be required. I did not have a piece of steel that big so this worked fine.



Those boxes in the background are my '66 T120R project that has been on hold lately.

regards,
Rob
 

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I assume your centerstand is gone. If you can install it for your front end work, I would do that and just strap down the back end of the bike to keep the front end suspended.
Unsold again. I think you're right, there's not much more that a centre stand can't do. My centre stand is fine. I'll continue to use that and save space in garage. Cheers.

P.S. Thanks Frog for my slight hijack.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Rob, nice job on that custom wheel choke ! I guess I will volunteer to buy the second one you don't know what to do with ?
It does look as if it is exactly what it takes to hold a bike : high vertical support in the front and a way to fit it to the tire width. Well done !
As far as the floor lift model, I also have one. And I like it for quick specific work. Like tires, chain and stuff like that. But since it supports right at the balance point of your bike, it is also very much in the way for actual work on the engine. And it is still fairly low to the ground. But for the price, I love mine and it is very useful, especially for lighter bikes like my trial machine.
Everybody needs to stay in business, but how can they make any money at $ 60.00 ? Imagine trying to build something like that ?
 

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I have the small bike lift and for most things it's great. plus in a small place, it doesn't dominate the garage.

It's been useful for the front end and when I had both wheels off for rebuilding. Very useful to fit that poxy rear hydraulic brake.

I'd say for everything but getting to the very bottom of the engine. It really saves my back - in combination with a camping stool. Buy tie down straps if you get one.
 

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Free advice that can be worth hundreds of dollars:

With ANY jack or lift, YOU NEED TO USE THE SAFETY LATCHES THAT KEEP THEM FROM LOWERING in case the seal or bleed valve leak or fail.

(don't ask how I learned this valuable lesson)
 
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