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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know that is nothing new, was few threads about it on this forum already. But if anybody still hesitates while being annoyed with peculiar feel of the Speedy brakes, here is my story.
I was always finding brakes on my '07 slightly "different" from what I got used to. Nothing wrong, brakes are strong and very effective, I can put bike on its nose with 2 fingers, but... Long initial pull and long travel afterward is good to prevent accidental lockup with hasty application of power - not bad, but lever has to be far to avoid pinching fingers. Then one day I took off front wheel an pushed-in pistons, and after assembly - I have normal brakes! Lasted for a week and went away (see thread about it) But I got the taste of what I liked and decided to go for it.
Long story short: got all the parts, done upgrade. How much it costed:
- 2007 GSXR-1000 calipers (new, with pads) - ebay, shipped $115
- Nissin master cylinder (new, '07 GSXR-1000) - ebay, $43 shipped
- custom Galfer steel braided "T" line - cyclebrakes.com, $140 shipped
- GSXR bolts ($12, dealer) replaced with fancy titanium bolts ($46, tastynuts.com)
- shorty Pazzo brake lever - $100, duncanmoto.com

So for ~$450 I have new brakes, with all new parts. You can knock-off $150 if you avoid fancy (pazzo+bolts). Was it worth it? Absolutely! Lever now has very short throw before brakes bite, then you modulate braking force with pressure, with minimal lever movement. Feel is great, and brakes finally match the bike. Love it!
Added benefit of having replaced gold with black calipers - looks sharp, look at the pictures.

Master cylinder:


Caliper and brake line routing:


Front with black calipers:


And bolt comparison: Triumph original, GSXR and titanium (top to bottom):
 

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Hey Bohdan, nice write up. One of the best writeups that I have seen here!! I've been thinking of doing this and I may do so after seeing this. Cheers :cool:
 

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Hey. Never intended the "check out my custom S3" post to become a spat. No hard feelings here. Anyway I was reading about your set-up and what I notice and previously considered, was that the GSXR calipers mount the brake line banjos a few inches below the Triumps. Untill I saw your shots I figured it wouldn't work without new brake lines. Have you lifter the bike off the ground with all that connected to see if the lines are maxed or bearing the pressue from the push of the fork springs? Or pulled the front end verticle since? it looks like there needs to be a little more play. I've been considering the same thing. What years of GSXR's will work. Are the brakes on the 600 the same as the 1000's?
 

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Oh, one last question. Does changing the resivor/lever system to the radial make a serious difference in the effectiveness of the braking? I'm guessing you didn't bother trying it with the OE lever system and new calpers first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hey. Never intended the "check out my custom S3" post to become a spat. No hard feelings here. Anyway I was reading about your set-up and what I notice and previously considered, was that the GSXR calipers mount the brake line banjos a few inches below the Triumps. Untill I saw your shots I figured it wouldn't work without new brake lines. Have you lifter the bike off the ground with all that connected to see if the lines are maxed or bearing the pressue from the push of the fork springs? Or pulled the front end verticle since? it looks like there needs to be a little more play. I've been considering the same thing. What years of GSXR's will work. Are the brakes on the 600 the same as the 1000's?
Skank,
It won't work without new lines - I had mine custom made. Original lines are too short on caliper side and wrong angle/length on master cylinder side. As I said in initial post, I got them made at cyclebrakes.com to provided spec.
Line fits perfectly, maybe too perfectly on the caliper side (almost no slack). First time I fitted it I was afraid that I measured it too short, but after installation everything was OK. Line clips into fender holders and nicely arcs to clear it, reaches calipers in straight line. Yes, I lifted the front to check if it would not be too stretched. As fender is mounted to bottom slider, and lower part of line is clipped to fender - no movement in this part, all flex is in upper portion of "T", between split and master. I guess caliper lines could be 0/5" longer, this would just create some more slack, but is not necessary for functionality.
If there is interest I can provide line specs and installation tips.

As for calipers: I have checked part fiche for Suzuki and found that all 05-07 GSXR-1000 have the same calipers (use westfieldyamahasuzuki.com instead of bikebandit, they provide Suzuki part numbers in cart instead of their own SKU numbers, so you can compare). I believe the same is true for 600/750 calipers, just check when you find interesting ones on ebay. There is still the guy selling new calipers for '07 GSXR-1000 for $99+S&H. These are brand new, taken off new bike (I guess some racer replacing with Brembos), even with fluid still in them and new pads.

Changing only calipers would probably be significant improvement, eliminating initial slack (similar to better feel I experienced temporarily after pushing-in pistons). This would however not change long pull of lever after initial bite, this is function of the m/c diameter. This is too small on OEM cylinder (16mm as I read in other posts here), Nissin radial cures that. Because any change requires custom brake line made, I went with full replacement and I'm glad I did. Nissin fits nicely, you retain mirror mount, downward slant is also there. New cylinder clears my Street Triple flyscreen at full lock without problem. Radial master makes braking one finger affair because of very short movement, practically just pressure on lever to modulate brakes.
 

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Yah I missed the fact that you bought new lines in your parts list. I was focused on the picture and how maxed out you are slack. When I first heard some one did the swap I took a look on ebay. I noticed that the nissen and tokio banjos are in different spots and I didn't figure that the stock lines were long enough but you somehow got them to work. looking back at your 1st post it's clear now. Thanks
 

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I just upgraded my brakes to Brembo and a Nissin radial master cylinder......



......and the rest of the 2009 Speed Triple. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I just upgraded my brakes to Brembo and a Nissin radial master cylinder......



......and the rest of the 2009 Speed Triple. :D
I bet I have mine on the par (excluding bling) with yours...:D

Responding to PM request: here are specs for the custom line. I will list Galfer banjo types as used by CycleBrakes and pictured on their "custom line order form" (this, from page here):
- master cylinder: banjo type F (20deg lateral bend),
- calipers: 2 banjos type C (20deg upwards bend),
- 3 banjo bolts 10x1.25 single
- line color: clear, top line: 20.5", caliper lines: 12.5"
- "T" line splitter - standard (do not get "ATV T-block", it won't fit)

This length of caliper lines is following curvature of the original line, just extends it further down to reach caliper holes. Lines clear the fender nicely, no strain on them. It would not hurt to have them 0.5" longer, to provide a little more slack.
The central T-junction is square block of metal drilled lengthwise and on one side for top line. If you insert it into fender clips, lower edges of square shape will rub on fender surface when line tilts. I have rounded them off with dremel and finished with sandpaper, so shape is round on bottom and flat on top (where the top line connects). Look at you original line to see how it was done by Triumph.
I tried to draw the picture with characters, but stupid formatting removes all the spaces, so cannot be done. If you draw it for whoever will be making line for you, draw the inverted "T", then top portion has length 20.5", ends at top with banjo type F bent to the right, horizontal lines at bottom have length of 12.5" and end with banjos C, bend upwards (towards the viewer). This is how it appears from the engine side, looking to the bike front.

I also forgotten to add one more thing: to relocate brake fluid reservoir to clear access to master cylinder nipple, use new S3 bracket for model '08 and up (~$9 at the dealer).
 

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I bet I have mine on the par (excluding bling) with yours...:D
You do. I had a Gixxer modded 2005 Triple and now have a 2009. The master cylinder on both is the same. Brembo calipers have a bit more initial bite, but otherwise the brakes are very close to each other. Don't know if the Brembos just have better pads; I had the Suzuki OEM pads on my old bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bleeding procedure

I thought that I will post here responses to questions that I've received via PM - this way all this will be in one place and ready to use.

Bolt replacement - why.
As others already stated in past threads, standard Triumph bolts will not fit. Bolts are too thick, will not go through GSXR calipers (Triumph bolt diameter - 10.7mm, GSXR bolt - 9.9mm, holes are 10mm). GSXR bolts are too long (70mm vs original 65mm) so to use them you need 2 washers under bolt head, which take approx. 4mm. With this they will work fine, but I liked tapered head of original, so spent cash for titanium replacements with standard thickness.
Bleeding.
As did the others, I had a hell of the time filling system with fluid and bleeding it. GSXR brakes seem to be tough to bleed properly, as many on GSXR forums expressed. I bled it more then once and finally got it right using "additional bleeding procedure" as described in Triumph shop manual. Here it is what I've done:
Basics.
I bleed using standard "lever squeeze" procedure. I have MityVac - same results, less hassle with lever. Use length of clear tubing on the nipple (must be tight fit, hard to get on - use heat to soften) - I use part of MityVac kit, 3" length of thin tube on nipple, then connector/adapter into bigger dia, longer tube draining into container. Use white lithium grease at the base of nipple to seal threads and prevent air entry here. This is important - if not, you will forever see small bubbles in tube, never know when done. Procedure is: squeeze lever (reservoir full, lid open) and hold, open nipple until flow seen in tube, close when stops, release lever, repeat.
Initial fill.
Fill the brakes from the top, keeping reservoir full and pushing fluid into system, bleeding at calipers (both) until bubbles not seen. Put good amount of fluid through it. When system appears to be full, bleed at cylinder. It takes patience. You may leave it for half an hour, waiting for bigger bubbles to form, squezing lever and slightly tapping on the lines to promote upward migration, then repeat bleeding, starting at cylinder.
Thorough bleeding.
- Get the 3" wide, stiff (thick) putty knife from hardware store.
- unbolt caliper (lines stay on!), suspend on bungie cord at forks.
- insert putty knife between pads, pump lever until held firmly. Pay attention to keep pistons clamp evenly from both sides, so they won't fall out of cavity (keep putty knife centered, resist push to side).
- now bleed the brakes as usual, starting with nipple at master cylinder, then continuing at caliper.
- when clear fluid visible, no bubbles, push pistons all the way in (careful eye on reservoir, so it won't overflow). Mount calipers back on rotors, don't squeeze lever yet).
- open nipple, squeeze lever. This should evacuate air bubbles pushed from caliper into line. Close nipple, continue bleeding as normal.
- repeat for the other caliper.
This procedure should fill all nooks in caliper with fluid, moving trapped air bubbles toward line. Piston push-in step then moves them into line. It finally worked for me. For fresh fill you may need to repeat next day.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You do need a small spacer but these are available at affordable cost from here
Unfortunately, you cannot use these spacers. These will work on GSXR caliper side, but leg mount does not have larger diameter, un-threaded recess at the top of mounting hole. On GSXR this recess and the matching one in caliper accepts precisely machined ring that resists forces perpendicular to bolt, while bolt only provides compression to keep caliper and mount together. If you want to use spacer it must have only caliper side "collar" or none.
 

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Unfortunately, you cannot use these spacers. ..
He (or l) will make them with or without collar however anyone needs them
Zoran at TWF is good guy, that's the difference between ordering from anonymous mail-order list vs a 'real' person with ability to supply what might be required.

Now - regarding the question - I'm less familiar with the Triumph fork legs.
The GSXR Tokico and Yamaha are essentially same fitment (except for the spacing aspect) other than one (yamaha) has the bushing pressed in the caliper, other (GSXR) is in the fork leg - that pic above happens to show the feature of the Yamaha caliper where the bushings in the caliper as opposed to the leg a la GSXR (and presumably Triumph?)
These can be pulled from the yamaha calipers.

Is the bushing fixed (i.e. cast) in the Triumph leg, or can you pull it?

I use the same kind of double-ended bushing spacer for my GSXR forks/calipers to utilize a 5mm spacer for the 320 rotors of the Triumph vs the 310 of the GSXR. You just pull the interference fit bushing from the GSXR fork leg.
 

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05 to 07 1050 fork leg has no bushing at all. Just a flat surface on leg + Nissin caliper both....
Then just a flat on the bottom side of the spacer bushing would do the job to accommodate the Monoblocks.
I'm pretty sure Zoran will accommodate this if anyone needs them. He's been an incredible find for me.
 
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