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It's on.



But not without difficulty. The shift bracket (that's what they call the pedal) would bind on the side stand as I snugged the bolt. It took me a while to figure that out, but once I did it was dealt with fairly easily. I removed the side stand, disassembled it and took it to the belt sander. The other issue was that despite the warning on the instructions from Woodcraft saying to tighten all fasteners to factory spec or industry standards, there's no way to tighten the pivot bolt anywhere close to the 45Nm/33.19ft-lbs the service manual indicates for the side stand mounting bolts. I've already written an email to Woodcraft about these issues. I'll let you know what they say.



It was raining as I was finishing up, so only tested on the stand, and everything appears to be working, so I'll call it a win.
 

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Good work Jack,and I have to say Nigel looks to be in showroom condition. If I didn’t know better I’d suspect your bike spent most of its time in the garage.
I’ll be looking forward to the ride report.



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Good work Jack,and I have to say Nigel looks to be in showroom condition. If I didn’t know better I’d suspect your bike spent most of its time in the garage.
I’ll be looking forward to the ride report.

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Since I retired, it has. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Woo nice work Jack, looking good!

I'm sure it'll be fine but the angle between the shift bracket and shift rod seems quite extreme compared to the angle between shift rod and shift arm (no idea if i've used the correct terminology here) so i'm just wondering if you'll get a more "positive" shift in one direction than the other? I guess if it feels fine on the stand then it should be ok :)

Really looking forward to hearing your feedback after a road test

Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Also...was it just the top of the side stand which required sanding down a bit? Nothing too major?

I wouldn't worry too much about the torque spec on that bolt, but a bit of thread lock will do the job if you're concerned I guess
 

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Also...was it just the top of the side stand which required sanding down a bit? Nothing too major?

I wouldn't worry too much about the torque spec on that bolt, but a bit of thread lock will do the job if you're concerned I guess
You can see most of grinding I did in the photo. What you can't really see is that I continued it around the pivot bolt, so it wouldn't contact while the side stand was deployed, either. I guess it really doesn't matter if there is some contact while the bike is sitting on the stand, but I was already grinding, so why not?

I got a response from Eric Wood today. He said they did not have that issue with the bike they used for test fitting, so it may be a tolerance thing and I was the lucky loser. What are the odds, eh? If you do get one, you may not have this issue. If you do, it's not the side stand pivot bolt, so don't waste your time grinding it down. :eek:

Eric also made a couple suggestions. I'm going to take off today, do some inspection, and try his suggestions to see how they work. I'm also thinking of safety wiring the bolt, but am afraid I won't be able to find a place to anchor the wire, because that one bolt sticks out pretty far.
 

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It's inverted, race, or *gag* GP shift. That's what this bit is designed to do. However, the clearance issue I had was not a function of the orientation of the shift pattern, it was a function of where the shift bracket attached to the bike. It wasn't a show-stopper for me. It just added a little time and effort to the process. The upside is that it also forced me to disassemble, clean, and re-grease my side stand, which is now working like butter.

(Note: I have personal issues calling an inverted shift pattern "GP shift". Do WSB riders call is WSB shift? Kevin Schwantz is probably one of the more famous racers who used a standard 1 down, 5 up pattern, and he raced in GP, so which is which? Okay, enough of my mindless drivel...)

I'm also just back from a quick road test, and initial reviews are positive. Shifting up or down feels very similar to before, including the slight extra effort required for full-throttle up shifts using the quick shifter. However, now that the up shifts are done by pressing down with the sole of your boot, even that seems easier. If you are looking to invert your shift pattern, but don't want to pay the price for full rearsets that give you that ability, this could be the way to go.
 

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It's inverted, race, or *gag* GP shift. That's what this bit is designed to do. However, the clearance issue I had was not a function of the orientation of the shift pattern, it was a function of where the shift bracket attached to the bike. It wasn't a show-stopper for me. It just added a little time and effort to the process. The upside is that it also forced me to disassemble, clean, and re-grease my side stand, which is now working like butter.

(Note: I have personal issues calling an inverted shift pattern "GP shift". Do WSB riders call is WSB shift? Kevin Schwantz is probably one of the more famous racers who used a standard 1 down, 5 up pattern, and he raced in GP, so which is which? Okay, enough of my mindless drivel...)

I'm also just back from a quick road test, and initial reviews are positive. Shifting up or down feels very similar to before, including the slight extra effort required for full-throttle up shifts using the quick shifter. However, now that the up shifts are done by pressing down with the sole of your boot, even that seems easier. If you are looking to invert your shift pattern, but don't want to pay the price for full rearsets that give you that ability, this could be the way to go.
Just calling it what everyone else (except you :smile2: ) calls it.

Good to hear it works properly. It works great at the track where every little thing helps.
 

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Just calling it what everyone else (except you :smile2: ) calls it.
I'm more than a bit of a contrarian.

Good to hear it works properly. It works great at the track where every little thing helps.
Thing is, I don't even take the Street Triple to the track anymore. I have a KTM RC390 for that, which also has inverted shift. Having the Street Triple conventional wasn't a problem, when I was commuting to/from work almost daily. Shifting (pun intended) back and forth between the two was fairly easy. Now that I'm not riding very often, I seem to get it all wrong far too often. Having them both the same should help, right?
 

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I'm more than a bit of a contrarian.



Thing is, I don't even take the Street Triple to the track anymore. I have a KTM RC390 for that, which also has inverted shift. Having the Street Triple conventional wasn't a problem, when I was commuting to/from work almost daily. Shifting (pun intended) back and forth between the two was fairly easy. Now that I'm not riding very often, I seem to get it all wrong far too often. Having them both the same should help, right?
Not having to think about should definitely help.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Interesting stuff Jack, glad to hear the shifting is positive on the road. To this day, I don't understand why bikes come out of the factory in road-shift pattern...is it just because that's what the market is used to, or a safety thing? I can't think why else...race shift just makes more sense to me whether it's on the road or track. 2 months into striple ownership and I still find myself shifting up into 5/6th at stop signs *facepalm*

I've found a similar product here in the UK which I think i'm going to purchase just to save on shipping costs. I've used both SES & Woodcraft products in the past and not been disappointed in either so it'll be good to compare it with the Woodcraft you're using:

https://www.sesraceproducts.com/race-change-kit-triumph-675-13-16-rck006-bk-479-p.asp

I'd like to buy their full rearsets but after speaking with them on the phone they've confirmed they only do Daytona rearsets and the exhaust bracket is slightly off so I need to investigate the exhaust collar which you mentioned back on page 1...I really don't want to fork out on something expensive like Gilles as I've already emptied my bank buying bike bling recently.

I can't remember if you said you had to purchase a new quickshifter or not? Are you using the factory fitted Triumph one? Mine quite clearly states "pull" on it but some info out there on them interwebs is saying that you can adjust the wiring to make it work as a "push".

Thanks for posting the info/pics Jack, much appreciated and it's definitely helping me reach a decision...which i'll make at some point...possibly even this year...
 

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Joe,

I did not have to buy a new QS. The way the Woodcraft one is designed, it retains the pull function for upshifts. That SES one would require a push type QS. You would also have to flip the shift arm on the shaft. It appears (in the photo on the SES site) that there is enough clearance with the frame for that, but I think it's going to be close. I have no idea about modifying a pull QS to work as a push.

More info from Woodcraft, because more info is always better, right?

I just got off the phone with Waylon at Woodcraft. One of the issues I had was tightening the bolt that mounts the shift bracket. I mentioned initially that I could not get anywhere near the factory specified torque of 33ft-lbs (45Nm) for the side stand mounting bolts without binding the shift bracket. I was afraid I'd mushroomed the head of the spacer that the bracket pivots on. That spacer is designed to extend beyond the shift bracket slightly. The bolt and washer tighten to the spacer allowing the bracket to pivot freely. There is also a wave washer used to cancel side-to-side play. My fears were confirmed yesterday, when I removed the bolt, and then had trouble getting the spacer out of the bracket. Before installation, it slide freely in and out. After over-tightening it, it dragged in a nails on chalkboard sort of way on the way out, and did not go back in very easily. Being very particular about things like this, I decided I needed a new spacer and fired off another email to Woodcraft.

Mr. Wood agreed to split cost and shipping with me 50-50, to which I readily agreed. I had to call Waylon this morning to seal the deal. $11 shipped to my door is probably the smallest idiot tax I've paid in quite a while. Waylon also mentioned that he and Mr. Wood had been discussing this issue and they agreed that something around 18-20ft-lbs and liberal use of blue Loctite would be sufficient to secure the bolt without damaging the sleeve. In response to my thoughts about safety wiring the bolt and finding an anchor point, Mr. Wood suggested drilling a small hole in the side stand bracket. I'm going to look for a suitable spot today and give that go.
 
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Now, what fun is that? For us, that is. ;)

Went back into the breach and drilled holes in the side stand bracket and bolt head. Then did a half ass safety-wire job. Once I get the new sleeve, I'll redo everything and take some more pictures. This is the most attention Nigel has had in quite a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Ahhh yes of course, I failed to notice the difference in pivot point between the Woodcraft and SES products. With that being said, if the QS can't be reversed to a 'push' operation then i'd be better off reverting to plan A with the Woodcraft Inverter-matic 3000 paired with Daytona footpegs.

I'd prefer to have full adjustability of the footpeg positioning though which is the major drawback in this solution, but without forking out £300+ on rearsets then I don't see an alternative. I need to pull my finger out and investigate the QS reversal I guess.

You can't argue with that customer service from Woodcraft can you! So was it because the bolt was tightened so much that the spacer was crushed and therefore causing a 'stiff' rotation on the shift bracket? I'd definitely be opting for some medium-strength threadlock for the new one...should be fine surely!
 

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Ahhh yes of course, I failed to notice the difference in pivot point between the Woodcraft and SES products. With that being said, if the QS can't be reversed to a 'push' operation then i'd be better off reverting to plan A with the Woodcraft Inverter-matic 3000 paired with Daytona footpegs.

I'd prefer to have full adjustability of the footpeg positioning though which is the major drawback in this solution, but without forking out £300+ on rearsets then I don't see an alternative. I need to pull my finger out and investigate the QS reversal I guess.

You can't argue with that customer service from Woodcraft can you! So was it because the bolt was tightened so much that the spacer was crushed and therefore causing a 'stiff' rotation on the shift bracket? I'd definitely be opting for some medium-strength threadlock for the new one...should be fine surely!
You cannot argue with their CS, no. I've contacted them several times before this last evolution, and the last two communications were the first time I've talked with anyone but Mr. Eric Wood himself. We had quite a long phone conversation, when I was looking to get clip-ons. He's a very nice man, and very "into" what he does.

The stiff rotation was caused by the bracket/pedal contacting the top of the side stand. As Eric said (we're buddies now ;) ), they did not have that issue with the bike they used to test fit. I don't know if their test bike was a Daytona or a Street Triple, but the fact remains my bike might be the outlier, and it's possible no one else will experience this. I crushed the end of the spacer sleeve trying to tighten the bolt to 45Nm/33.2ft-lbs, which is the torque spec for the side stand bracket mounting bolts. Per Woodcraft's advice, I will only be torquing the bolt to 18-20ft-lbs (24.4-27.1Nm), if I even get that far. I will be using copious amounts of blue Loctite, and I've also drilled the bolt head and side stand bracket to safety wire the bolt. By the time I'm done, it won't be going anywhere.*

*I had the shift pedal pivot bolt back out on my SV650S years ago (it was a not uncommon occurrence with that bike). Going to shift and having your toe hit nothing but air is a feeling I experienced once, and never want to again.
 
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