You can see most of grinding I did in the photo. What you can't really see is that I continued it around the pivot bolt, so it wouldn't contact while the side stand was deployed, either. I guess it really doesn't matter if there is some contact while the bike is sitting on the stand, but I was already grinding, so why not?Also...was it just the top of the side stand which required sanding down a bit? Nothing too major?
I wouldn't worry too much about the torque spec on that bolt, but a bit of thread lock will do the job if you're concerned I guess
Just calling it what everyone else (except you :smile2: ) calls it.It's inverted, race, or *gag* GP shift. That's what this bit is designed to do. However, the clearance issue I had was not a function of the orientation of the shift pattern, it was a function of where the shift bracket attached to the bike. It wasn't a show-stopper for me. It just added a little time and effort to the process. The upside is that it also forced me to disassemble, clean, and re-grease my side stand, which is now working like butter.
(Note: I have personal issues calling an inverted shift pattern "GP shift". Do WSB riders call is WSB shift? Kevin Schwantz is probably one of the more famous racers who used a standard 1 down, 5 up pattern, and he raced in GP, so which is which? Okay, enough of my mindless drivel...)
I'm also just back from a quick road test, and initial reviews are positive. Shifting up or down feels very similar to before, including the slight extra effort required for full-throttle up shifts using the quick shifter. However, now that the up shifts are done by pressing down with the sole of your boot, even that seems easier. If you are looking to invert your shift pattern, but don't want to pay the price for full rearsets that give you that ability, this could be the way to go.
I'm more than a bit of a contrarian.Just calling it what everyone else (except you :smile2: ) calls it.
Thing is, I don't even take the Street Triple to the track anymore. I have a KTM RC390 for that, which also has inverted shift. Having the Street Triple conventional wasn't a problem, when I was commuting to/from work almost daily. Shifting (pun intended) back and forth between the two was fairly easy. Now that I'm not riding very often, I seem to get it all wrong far too often. Having them both the same should help, right?Good to hear it works properly. It works great at the track where every little thing helps.
Not having to think about should definitely help.I'm more than a bit of a contrarian.
Thing is, I don't even take the Street Triple to the track anymore. I have a KTM RC390 for that, which also has inverted shift. Having the Street Triple conventional wasn't a problem, when I was commuting to/from work almost daily. Shifting (pun intended) back and forth between the two was fairly easy. Now that I'm not riding very often, I seem to get it all wrong far too often. Having them both the same should help, right?
You cannot argue with their CS, no. I've contacted them several times before this last evolution, and the last two communications were the first time I've talked with anyone but Mr. Eric Wood himself. We had quite a long phone conversation, when I was looking to get clip-ons. He's a very nice man, and very "into" what he does.Ahhh yes of course, I failed to notice the difference in pivot point between the Woodcraft and SES products. With that being said, if the QS can't be reversed to a 'push' operation then i'd be better off reverting to plan A with the Woodcraft Inverter-matic 3000 paired with Daytona footpegs.
I'd prefer to have full adjustability of the footpeg positioning though which is the major drawback in this solution, but without forking out £300+ on rearsets then I don't see an alternative. I need to pull my finger out and investigate the QS reversal I guess.
You can't argue with that customer service from Woodcraft can you! So was it because the bolt was tightened so much that the spacer was crushed and therefore causing a 'stiff' rotation on the shift bracket? I'd definitely be opting for some medium-strength threadlock for the new one...should be fine surely!