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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully i'm not reposting - i've done a search and can't find a definitive answer to what i'm looking for...

I'm after some rearsets for my 2016 striple R, nothing too fancy as the only reason I want them is to flip the shifting over to gp shift..

Just to throw a spanner in the works though, I have the Triumph pull-type quick shifter fitted so i'm wondering if there's a set out there which will allow me to flip the shifting around but also keep the pull-type shifter? I've seen pics of some where the shift rod rotates from a bolt near the sidestand mount, so I guess it would work with this style of rearset as the shift arm will still be rotating anti-clockwise...

The other question is whether Daytona rearsets will fit?? I seem to be able to find a lot of 2008-2013 striple or 2013+ daytona rearsets, but not many 2013-2016 striple rearsets!

Thanks :)
 

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Not entirely sure on your year, but I run Attack performance on my 12 which fit Daytona and can be switched around. I would check their website and email them. They're very good about promptly responding

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Check this thread out...
Reverse/GP Shift Pattern without Aftermarket Rearsets
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=91405&share_tid=953362&share_pid=2003935688&url=https://www.triumphrat.net/showthread.php?p=2003935688&share_type=t

As far as the rear sets all Daytona and street triple rear sets have the same bolt pattern. So they are interchangeable, major differences between the 8-12 & 13+ is the exhaust mount.

I have Daytona’s on my street triple,and sold mine to a Daytona owner who converted his Daytona into a street triple. Go figure


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Check this thread out...
Reverse/GP Shift Pattern without Aftermarket Rearsets
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=91405&share_tid=953362&share_pid=2003935688&url=https://www.triumphrat.net/showthread.php?p=2003935688&share_type=t

As far as the rear sets all Daytona and street triple rear sets have the same bolt pattern. So they are interchangeable, major differences between the 8-12 & 13+ is the exhaust mount.

I have Daytona’s on my street triple,and sold mine to a Daytona owner who converted his Daytona into a street triple. Go figure


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This is interesting. Since retiring and no longer commuting to work, I'm riding on the street much less than I used to. I've probably done more track miles than street miles this year. My Street is standard shift, and my track bike is inverted. I've never had much issue shifting (eh? Punny, no? ;) ) back and forth, but this could be an easy and not too expensive way to eliminate the need to make the adjustment. Besides...BLING!

One issue has me hesitating: A buddy installed a similar device on one of his bikes and didn't like it. Hopefully, I can explain why. A shifter mounted to the rearsets pivots in the same general area that your ankle does, so the arcs that your foot and shifter peg move along when shifting is similar. Sort of like this: (( . With this shifter, the pivot is well forward and outside the arc your foot moves along, causing the arcs of your foot and the peg to be opposing. More like this: )( . The geometry gets even farther off, if the heights of the pivots are far enough away from each other that you are pushing or pulling into or away from the shifter pivot.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to give it a try.
 

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Interesting, I wonder if another possible cause could be the lose of leverage with this design.
But what do I know?
I ain’t no mathamagican


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Interesting, I wonder if another possible cause could be the lose of leverage with this design.
But what do I know?
I ain’t no mathamagican


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Don't worry your little head; I'm here to unnecessarily over think every little detail for you.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies and link..

I like the look of that standard peg to reverse the shift pattern - interest point made about it rotating in the opposite direction to your foot though so its moving "away" from you during the upshift. I can't see it being too much of an issue though as some bikes come from the factory as standard like this I think...only one way to find out though i guess!

Only issue is that i'll have the same problem with my quickshifter...the rod will be "pushing" to shift up and not pulling...I think my only option here is going to be a new quickshifter which i was hoping to avoid but such is life.

As far as the rear sets all Daytona and street triple rear sets have the same bolt pattern. So they are interchangeable, major differences between the 8-12 & 13+ is the exhaust mount.
Is the Daytona exhaust mount in the same position as the 13+ striple then?

Cheers,
 

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Is the Daytona exhaust mount in the same position as the 13+ striple then?

Cheers,
No, it isn't. It's moved back and up, maybe the exact same amount as the peg?

Now for more information than you thought you'd get and probably more than you wanted:

I put a Remus exhaust on my 13 not too long after buying it. When I did, I noticed there was a spacer on the midpipe with the stock exhaust, and leaving it in place caused the mount on the exhaust to be too far back to align with the hole for it on the stock rearsets. I took it off, finished the install and motored happily along until I picked up the Daytona rearsets.

When I put the Daytona rearsets on, the holes again didn't align and this time the hole on the rearset was too far back. I scratched my head a few times, threw out a few choice words and then remembered the spacer. I dug through my spare parts bin and found it. With it back on the midpipe, the holes lined up perfectly.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
No, it isn't. It's moved back and up, maybe the exact same amount as the peg?

Now for more information than you thought you'd get and probably more than you wanted:

I put a Remus exhaust on my 13 not too long after buying it. When I did, I noticed there was a spacer on the midpipe with the stock exhaust, and leaving it in place caused the mount on the exhaust to be too far back to align with the hole for it on the stock rearsets. I took it off, finished the install and motored happily along until I picked up the Daytona rearsets.

When I put the Daytona rearsets on, the holes again didn't align and this time the hole on the rearset was too far back. I scratched my head a few times, threw out a few choice words and then remembered the spacer. I dug through my spare parts bin and found it. With it back on the midpipe, the holes lined up perfectly.
Interesting stuff! More random bike information is always appreciated...it does a great job of kicking out useless information from my brain like birthdays, appointments, peoples names etc :wink2:

I have an Arrow exhaust fitted but the bike also came with the standard exhaust and box, so i'll have a dig around to see if I can find a similar spacer!

If it's in there, I guess full steam ahead with daytona rearsets >:)
 

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Okay...I'm beginning to obsess about this Woodcraft inverted shift contraption. I did a little digging and found assembly instructions along with their part #08-5508CNV. That number is for the kit without a quickshifter. 08-5507CNV is with a quickshifter. That one shows that it's for Daytonas, but does retain the side stand. There is a race model for the Daytona that deletes the side stand. The difference between 07 and 08 is that the shift rod for 08 is 6". For 07, the shift rod is 7 3/4".

On the second page of the instructions, which are for their entire rearset kit, the installation of the inverted shift device is detailed. Based on the drawing, the pivot for the shift pedal attaches to the forward side stand anchor bolt. Since it is designed to work with their rearsets, and it's listed as a stand alone bit for Daytonas, I'm feeling more confident that it won't position the toe peg too far forward from my (size 9) toes. If it is, I don't see a reason why the pivot couldn't be installed onto the rear side stand anchor bolt. What I need to do now is go down and take a good look how the foot peg, current shift peg, and the mounting point line up. If they are close enough to being in a single line, then I've more than likely talked myself into getting this. If the toe peg is significantly above or below the line between the foot peg and mounting bolt, I'll have to find something else to obsess about. After over 6 years of ownership, it's getting really, really hard to find any more farkles, though. :(

https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/files/1e1bad9d-684f-409c-a7f8-c0a2681e82e4.pdf
 

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That looks close enough for me.



Now, I need to figure out how I can afford to buy it RIGHT NOW, because...yanno...being a responsible adult and waiting until I really can afford it is just out of the freaking question...

;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice work Jack, keep it up :wink2::grin2:

I think even if it doesn't line up exactly, you'll have some adjustment on the shift rod and if necessary you could always rotate the shift arm round one notch on the rod that sticks out of the gearbox (I have absolutely no idea what it's called). Worst case scenario you could always get a longer/shorter shift rod I guess?

I had my first trackday on the striple yesterday and whilst the bike itself is more than capable, I found myself cursing the rearsets for a lot of it so something really needs to change! How much difference do the daytona rearsets make to the height of the peg? If it's not much then I might resort to some Gilles or similar and look at buying a push-type shifter to allow me to swap over to race shift...
 

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Nice work Jack, keep it up :wink2::grin2:

I think even if it doesn't line up exactly, you'll have some adjustment on the shift rod and if necessary you could always rotate the shift arm round one notch on the rod that sticks out of the gearbox (I have absolutely no idea what it's called). Worst case scenario you could always get a longer/shorter shift rod I guess?

I had my first trackday on the striple yesterday and whilst the bike itself is more than capable, I found myself cursing the rearsets for a lot of it so something really needs to change! How much difference do the daytona rearsets make to the height of the peg? If it's not much then I might resort to some Gilles or similar and look at buying a push-type shifter to allow me to swap over to race shift...
It's not enough to make daily riding feel much different from the stock ones, but it might be just enough for the track. If you can find an inexpensive set here, on 675.net, or fleabay, they might be worth a try. If they don't work, you can always sell them off. Proper rearsets are not cheap. I just spent almost $500 to put a set of Woodcrafts on my track KTM RC390.

I'll be ordering the Woodcraft contraption tomorrow. I'll be sure to post the results. I know what you are talking about. I call the short piece the shift rod connects to via a Heim joint the shift arm, but I could be wrong. Based on how closely the 3 points in my photo line up, and it only takes a small amount of movement to change gears, I imagine it will just take a little fiddling to get it right.
 

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Nice work Jack, keep it up :wink2::grin2:



I think even if it doesn't line up exactly, you'll have some adjustment on the shift rod and if necessary you could always rotate the shift arm round one notch on the rod that sticks out of the gearbox (I have absolutely no idea what it's called). Worst case scenario you could always get a longer/shorter shift rod I guess?



I had my first trackday on the striple yesterday and whilst the bike itself is more than capable, I found myself cursing the rearsets for a lot of it so something really needs to change! How much difference do the daytona rearsets make to the height of the peg? If it's not much then I might resort to some Gilles or similar and look at buying a push-type shifter to allow me to swap over to race shift...


I have also swapped out my rear sets for pair from a Daytona after scrapping my toes on the track.
Haven’t had a problem since,but that may be because after the swap I also learned my foot position wasn’t optimal.
I find the Daytona set being back and up and inch or so still comfortable for my 100+ mile round trip commute,but I’m on the short side of average with a 30” inseam.
After a season of riding on and learning on a dedicated track bike,taking the streety out to the track this past weekend was a blast. The sv650 was fun but I didn’t realize how much I missed the triumph out there until, well I was out there.



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Yep, dragging toes is incorrect foot position on the pegs, not which rear sets you have.
True, but sometimes when I get a little lazy with my feet, I still drag them. What about this?



At some point I might have dragged my engine case guard. I don't know when it happened, but I do know I've never low-sided this bike. The previous owner did, and you can see the scrap on the case behind the guard, but I installed the case guards after I bought the bike. I'm thinking maybe it was a stone hit.

I discovered it while installing Woodcraft rearsets. Can't wait to get out and give them a flog.



:vroom
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, dragging toes is incorrect foot position on the pegs, not which rear sets you have.
I appreciate what you're saying but it's a bit presumtuous slapping that statement on everyone...

I ride on my toes with the inside foot inline with the bike, but still found on track that even with my foot all the way back on the peg and ankle jammed into the heelguard I was still grounding pegs and toe sliders (and i only wear a size 9!) so it's definitely something which will be resolved with a change of rearsets.

Those Woodcrafts look ace Jack, just the job...maybe you caught the casing on a high curb or something? Easily done although i'd have thought you'd notice that much of a hit!

I've found a pair of Daytona rearsets on fleabay for £80 so i'll get them bought and fanny around with the exhaust mount and shift rods after they've been delivered...I have a feeling there will be some bodging required somewhere along the line...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have also swapped out my rear sets for pair from a Daytona after scrapping my toes on the track.
Haven’t had a problem since,but that may be because after the swap I also learned my foot position wasn’t optimal.
I find the Daytona set being back and up and inch or so still comfortable for my 100+ mile round trip commute,but I’m on the short side of average with a 30” inseam.
After a season of riding on and learning on a dedicated track bike,taking the streety out to the track this past weekend was a blast. The sv650 was fun but I didn’t realize how much I missed the triumph out there until, well I was out there.
I didn't realise there was such a difference in height between the daytona and striple pegs, definitely worth the upgrade then!

They really are fun on track aren't they...other than the bleeding pegs lol :grin2::grin2:
 

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Dragging case guards is suspension setup issue or you are not getting your body off the bike far enough and just leaning the bike too much. I have ridden bikes on the track with stock pegs and managed not to drag them or my feet. It is all foot position and getting your butt off the seat to turn the motorcycle and not just leaning the bike. This is not to say that aftermarket rear sets do not help, they do, but a large percentage of dragging pegs and feet is due to the factors above not your rearsets. YMMV.
 
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