Triumph fork legs are 2mm thicker. That's what he ment.43mm-45mm? I don't understand your post.
Martin - the 43 & 45 refer to the lower section diameters, not the uppers that locate in the triples.Triumph fork legs are 2mm thicker. That's what he ment.
So you'll need to (if possible) adapt the Gixxer clamps on Triumph steering head. But then you'll lose the Triumph handlebars as the Gixxer top clamp probably does not have enough meat for drilling.
Machining one-off triple clamps always works, but will push the total cost of conversion close to getting proper aftermarket replacement forks in 45mm Triumph OD.
I have only experience with 06 GSXR1000 front. It is just more supple all around. Eats sharp bumps without jolting to the handlebars, but still does a good job on general damping. On Triumph it seems it's either one or the other, but impossible to get fast/slow speed damping both to a nice ballpark.So what's so great about them?
and/or is it certain model runs?
Martin_RI have only experience with 06 GSXR1000 front. It is just more supple all around. Eats sharp bumps without jolting to the handlebars, but still does a good job on general damping. On Triumph it seems it's either one or the other, but impossible to get fast/slow speed damping both to a nice ballpark.
Might of course be that some of the effect is due to the Gixxer being more balanced and not so top heavy as the fat birds we ride.
The suspension shop I took my 2005 forks to commented that the 1050 fork innards were like 1997 GSX-R 750's. On that light seems that Hinckley people might have been shopping at the Showa bargain bin.
Anyways, the forks on my 1050 are good enough for me and the 15 year old chassis design. They are definitely not bad enough to get me to bother with full replacement. Revalving and re-springing maybe, but replacing might be a bit overkill as it won't hide the top heavyness and chassis problems anyway.
Agree. This was the fashion in the 90s, but other brands have moved on 10 years ago.Having compression damping on one fork and rebound damping on the other fork is the cheap way.
I had the 2005 forks worked. Changed springs, suspension gurus played around with the shims in an effor to improve fast speed damping reaction times and changed the oil (to 7.5 WP, I believe).Who has tried re-valving these Showa's?
with/without a fork brace?
Fork oil weight, relevent to re-valving too.
Springs are more relevent to riders weight.
If you (or anyone else) has a caliper and can get me the following measurements, I could give you better specifics as to what the best way to do this might be.
Triumph - Confirm fork/ rotor spacing dimensions:
Upper clamp fork leg diameter
Lower clamp fork leg diameter
Rotor Spacing (measure across outside faces the subtract one rotor thickness)
If possible, also the fork spacing center - center (measure across between the legs and add one leg diameter at point of measurement)
Forget the ruler!... I'm going around to the dealers with my ruler and calibers and getting measurements. Keep the posts coming with your ideas..