I`m not sure if Gill coils are standard on your bike but if you can then avoid fitting them to you bike as they fail all to easily.
If you can then go for the PVL coils Triumph also used as it`ll save you a great deal of trouble. Neology is just a brand name for the same PVL coils Triumph used on they`re very early bikes and are actually made in Germany.
The earlier models' coils were supplied by PVL and the later ones by Gill. (I think your '02 model may well be Gill?). Both are compatible, and so you can mix them.
My experience is different to Matt's comment. Fyi, my Sprint was fitted with PVL coils, and I had a problem with the one firing cylinder 1. I bought a replacement, which was a Gill, and no problems since. I now have 2 PVLs and 1 Gill fitted.
(No problem yet with the coils fitted on my Thunderbird).
There are alot of comments regarding Gill viz PVL that can be found on the forum. My own theory is that most coil failures are to coil 1, and it does not matter which make is there. I think the problem probably lies more with the position of coil 1 & affected by heat, or the extra loading caused with coil 1 also feeding the rev counter. IMHO.
A couple of weeks ago I started the bike and noticed that the tach wasn't working. As I drove away the bike was really laboring, and I could smell gas. Based on the feedback from this site, removed seat, tank, & side panel, and started checking that the coil wires weren't loose. Started with #1, and sure enough, I could feel the HT coil wire 'seat/snap' into its fitting. For the next 5-6 rides, bike ran great - smooth, the tach worked. Was riding Sunday, did about 35 miles, stopped at a store for about 25 minutes. Started the bike, and no tach - bike laboring again. Had read mostly negative things about the Gill coils, so was wondering if these were the OEM's on the '02 TB. Started the bike twice today, about 4 hours apart, and it started right up, tach working, engine smooth. This weekend I plan to switch the #1 & #2 coils, and see if the engine runs rough (and the tach is still working). If it does, I'm thinking it is the coil.
My experience was very, very similar to yours, and you are going about it methodically.
In my case I found a slight split between the black casing and the filling (silicon?) underneath. My perception was that this split appeared to let in some dampness to cause problems with the rev counter not working, the engine missing (2 cylinders), or both together. And then, (when very dry) run perfectly. It took me a few weeks to track it down.
I think many people, including workshops, replace all three coils. I just bought one new coil from my local Triumph dealer. This was a Gill, and replaced the bad coil (PVM) - (my local Triumph dealer confirmed the OEM PVM & Gill coils are compatible). Everything has been fine since, and as said above, I am running a Gill (cyl 1), and 2 PVMs (cyl 2 & 3).
I don't know if it helps, but I have attached a photo of the bad coil (notice the slight gap along the top edge, between the black case & red filling), with the replacement coil's packaging (for the part number). (Fyi, the PVM part number was 1290007)
for your pic. Intermittent failure is always the most difficult to diagnose Will be removing tank etc. this weekend, and in addition to cleaning off the spade ends, will take a magnifying glass to the coil. Planning on doing the coil swap, and see what happens.
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