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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What kind and where are gasket sealers recommended? I have always used CopperCoat on all my fiber head gaskets and various other gaskets. I use Hondabond on mating surfaces that don't have gaskets (unfortunately it looks like crap in the light gray on my black engine, have to paint pen touch up all the seams). What gaskets should go on dry and which can be sealed. Is there a better option than the copper coat?
I just received my replacement inner trans gasket from Steadfast Cycles. Slightly disappointed because they listed the early gasket and the later left shift gasket separately, so I ordered the early. They sent the later one. I know it makes no difference. It just irks me that they list one and send the other. If they don't have the other, pull the listing.
 

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I use Hylomar on every gasket,plus the crankcase halves.That is every gasket,fibre washer,copper washer,absolutely every part that contains the oil.It does tend to keep all the oil in the engine very well with not a single drop of oil on the ground after a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I use Hylomar on every gasket,plus the crankcase halves.That is every gasket,fibre washer,copper washer,absolutely every part that contains the oil.It does tend to keep all the oil in the engine very well with not a single drop of oil on the ground after a ride.
Which Hylomar product do you use, they have many?
 

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The one marked blue hylomar.Very soft and almost liquid until the solvents dry a little.Always used this brand on the Triumph so i never try any other type.If i take off the primary and have no spare gasket to fit,i do use silicone sealant instant gasket and that does work with no leaks.Everyone has a favourite and even grease gets used but i prefer this product.I always smear the copper head gasket with it and never had a head gasket leak so far.The hylomar can be applied very thin and not too hard to wipe it off.It is also very easy to part the engine again later on.Worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The one marked blue hylomar.Very soft and almost liquid until the solvents dry a little.Always used this brand on the Triumph so i never try any other type.If i take off the primary and have no spare gasket to fit,i do use silicone sealant instant gasket and that does work with no leaks.Everyone has a favourite and even grease gets used but i prefer this product.I always smear the copper head gasket with it and never had a head gasket leak so far.The hylomar can be applied very thin and not too hard to wipe it off.It is also very easy to part the engine again later on.Worth a try.
Glad to see someone else uses grease for sealing, something I see few recommend. BITD I always used grease to seal valve cover gaskets as it seals all indentations and doesn't melt away under heat.
 

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I rarely use grease,but i notice others do use it.My valve covers are the round ones on a 71 so i use the Hylomar on those rings too.Tappet adjustment is rare now as parts just do not seem to wear with good oils and changing.When building these engines,some gasket sets do not have an inner gearbox gasket as they were not used at the factory.I do use a gasket on mine.Never had a gear oil leak.My main areas of leaking have always been pushrod tubes and weeps at the rocker covers after the rings get a bit worn and pressure increases.Last years ring replacement has achieved oil tight for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I rarely use grease,but i notice others do use it.My valve covers are the round ones on a 71 so i use the Hylomar on those rings too.Tappet adjustment is rare now as parts just do not seem to wear with good oils and changing.When building these engines,some gasket sets do not have an inner gearbox gasket as they were not used at the factory.I do use a gasket on mine.Never had a gear oil leak.My main areas of leaking have always been pushrod tubes and weeps at the rocker covers after the rings get a bit worn and pressure increases.Last years ring replacement has achieved oil tight for now.
I was referring to old automobile valve covers, not on my bikes. Used cork gaskets with grease on them and that worked better than gasket sealers that always seems dot "break free" and start leaking. Cork and grease stayed sealed better than the rubber gaskets also.
 

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Osmosis never sleeps. It can lift water from 10 feet underground to the top of a hundred foot tree. No matter how you choose to seal your ride if there is any oil on the gasket surface you are providing a path for osmosis to do its work. Boy once it gets started there seems no way to stop it. You would be surprised how many "solvents" leave an oily residue on the surface you think you just cleaned.

Now many of you reach for the can of "brake clean", but from many years of using TriCor spray cleaner (pure trichlorethane) just one squirt of that stuff in the shop and the top of my head starts to come off. What I have found is denatured alcohol. It leaves a surface completely void of any oil and has less effect that the hit of alcohol vapor you get from a shot of Jack Daniels. Now what ever you choose to seal your ride will actually work. Three Bond will seal up that inner transmission, or timing cover tighter than a "Bull's a s s at fly time." Now personally I gave up all sealants in leau of using real gaskets. Ones made from Buna-n rubber with a fiber binder and rocker box and base gaskets that have a stainless steel sheet coated with a buna-n coating - and if I get any oil on the gasket while installing it off it comes and a new dry one installed.

And using oil or grease to lubricate "o" rings on the push rod tube seals almost guarantees they will eventually leak. I use a water based rubber lube (P-80) which evaporates leaving the seal dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Were there not gaskets that you recommended go on dry with no sealers, other than the rocker box gaskets? The gist I am getting is to blue LocTite everything with a thread and sealer on every joint.
DA is the only cleaner I use in my powder coating operation.
 

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Yes, the gaskets I use, and offer in out gaskets sets, does not need any sealants! This is the same for the rocker box gaskets. They should be used dry! No oil, grease or sealants.

IMHO I would only recommend Blue Loctite be used on a Triumph in 4 places: The three flywheel bolts - a must, the alternator rotor nut, the main shaft clutch nut and the the main shaft kick starter pinion nut. If you are harboring the thought that I am going to do this once, and if I Loctite every piece of hardware in the engine, I only have sympathy for you.

Your opinion might be different...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yes, the gaskets I use, and offer in out gaskets sets, does not need any sealants! This is the same for the rocker box gaskets. They should be used dry! No oil, grease or sealants.

IMHO I would only recommend Blue Loctite be used on a Triumph in 4 places: The three flywheel bolts - a must, the alternator rotor nut, the main shaft clutch nut and the the main shaft kick starter pinion nut. If you are harboring the thought that I am going to do this once, and if I Loctite every piece of hardware in the engine, I only have sympathy for you.

Your opinion might be different...
Your opinion is garnered through years more experience than I have. My opinion is just trying to not have anything fall off once it's together. Doesn't the kickstart pinion nut have a tab washer? But you recommend glueing it also?

PS: in your Quadrant indexing story you mention RED LocTite. When I mentioned LocTiting the threads I was referring to BLUE LocTite. Does it make a difference or do still not recommend it?
 

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The late 5 speed mainshaft 57-7077 kick starter threaded end on the kick starter end will often break if torqued to the factory specification. I have been known to leave off the tab washer and use red on these.n
 

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Gasket Sealant

Loctite 518 without a doubt. Just in the process of lifting the barrels due to the base gasket failing. Have an ordinary paper gasket that I would normally grease (as I did last time) this time a thin bead of 518 will be applied to both sides of the gasket. On the rocker boxes I use solid aluminium gaskets which are annealed each time the covers are removed, a very thin bead of 518 means no leaks and easy, clean removal.
 

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Threebond 1104 works for me on the base gasket and crankcase halves and blue hylomar on the head and rockerbox gaskets.
I understand JH has rubber coated rockerbox gaskets which need no sealer but I don't have them. Are they available for 500's John?
In any case the Hylomar works well and makes dis-assembly easy.

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The stainless coated CovSeal with gasket material are available for iron head, non-unit aluminum heads , unit 500, early unit 650, 71-72 650, T140 and triples. They are also available for 650/750 twins base gaskets and both early and late BSA rocker covers. These came out of our racing experience.
 

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I took the Bonnie into work today, since she had been sitting for a few weeks while her new sister got all the fun. Not a mile out, and I started hearing a rhythmic clicking in the rear that started getting louder. I stopped by the side of the road, and one of the sprocket bolts had started to work itself out. I can imagine what fun it would have been at high speed and not hearing it. All the others were tight, and it had done a few thousand miles since I last looked even at the rear sprocket.

So add the sprocket bolts to the list of items that would benefit from blue locktight!
 

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The stainless coated CovSeal with gasket material are available for iron head, non-unit aluminum heads , unit 500, early unit 650, 71-72 650, T140 and triples. They are also available for 650/750 twins base gaskets and both early and late BSA rocker covers. These came out of our racing experience.
Do you have a southern hemisphere distributor for them John?

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I took the Bonnie into work today, since she had been sitting for a few weeks while her new sister got all the fun. Not a mile out, and I started hearing a rhythmic clicking in the rear that started getting louder. I stopped by the side of the road, and one of the sprocket bolts had started to work itself out. I can imagine what fun it would have been at high speed and not hearing it. All the others were tight, and it had done a few thousand miles since I last looked even at the rear sprocket.

So add the sprocket bolts to the list of items that would benefit from blue locktight!
This sprocket bolts undoing happened on my BSA which has about 12 fixings.After a normal ride,i checked the bike over and notice that all of them had undone.It struck me as strange as that rear sprocket has not been undone in the last 10 years at least.Not happened on my conical hub Triumph but worth checking every outing.
Its routine for me to check every bolt and nut normally visible,after any ride which has any higher speed riding.90 mph for a few miles often undoes nuts and bolts and in particular,indicator stem nuts.Even my carb manifold locking nuts have undone at times.I generally use blue loctite for external fixings.
 

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I used #518 anaerobic sealer, Three Bond and black RTV over the years and they all did the job when applied correctly...
Normally I only use a head gaskets, no other gaskets..just sealer...No leakage for me but your results may differ...
It's been my observation that bikes run hard before fully warmed leak more oil and have more mechanical problems...
 

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Most of the hay day of my 650 I used the weird machined surface sealer I found back in 1980 called ‘ the Right Stuff ‘, which was nothing like what they sell now but Loctite 518 sounds a lot like it.
That with no gaskets sealed my transmission inner and engine cases. I had chrome plated side covers which would leak all over if not sealed just right. I used to put thin layer of RTV blue on covers and let it set up entirely for a whole day before installing. Then the silicone gasket would hold pressure, not just squeeze out. The cam cover having pressurized oil passages I would use a gasket but I would ‘ paint ‘ the gasket with RTV. The same with most other gaskets.
The only place my Triumph would leak was seepage from the head gasket. ( I should have annealed it )
 
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